HELP: trying to cut a 2x4 with a circular saw ..

[Ajit Joshi]

I am trying to cut a 2x4 with a black&decker circular saw (13 amp, 7

1/4 blade) and the blade just stops spinning while cutting through the 2x4 a little bit. It looks like it is getting stuck?? The blade I am using is the one that came with the saw (I believe about 12 teeth and was rated for cutting wood. Does the blade get stuck because of the pitch of the teeth or because the motor is a 13 amp motor? When it gets stuck, the motor is still running (ofcourse, I turned it off before it burnt). Did anyone else have the same experience?

Thanks in advance guys.

-ajit

[Nova]

If the motor is still running and the blade is not turning the blade is loose. Tighten the bolt holding the blade.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

[Mike G]

Any circular saw using just about any blade should do the job. The only reason I can think of for that to happen is that you are doing something wrong. Cocking the saw after the cut has started, having the stock resting in such a way the kerf is closing and binding the blade, that sort of thing.

[Charles Krug]

Double-check that the blade is installed correctly. Sounds like it may be reversed on the arbor. DAMHIKT.

[P©WÉ®T©©LMAN]

On some Circular saws if one or both of the blade washers are reversed the blade bolt will not fasten the blade between them tightly & under load of cutting the blade stops & allows the shaft & motor to run...not a big problem, just put the washers on right. See if when you tighten the blade bolt it snugs up firmly followed by a quarter turn to tighten at most.

Sometimes the use of a TK blade (thin kerf) can give you that problem if the blade washers are designed to hold a standard thickness blade.

If the cutting brings everything to a standstill...probably accompanied with kickback, then it could be that the lumber is not supported properly & is binding / pinching the blade, even a 2X4 has enough strength to do that, make sure the weight of the unsupported part is lightly supported while cutting.

Other than that if the motor is still running but the blade stops then there could be damage to the yoke / gear / spindle assembly...does it sound rough & noisy?

Even an inexpensive circular should go through 2X4s with ease when supported properly & using a half decent blade properly tightened in place.

[Bob Davis]

Are you by any chance using a ripping-only blade? 12 teeth is not much, even on a 7" saw? Is the blade in good shape and sharp? Its not about what you are doing wrong, its about what's wrong with the equipment. Any circular saw, no matter how cheap should cut a 2x4.

Oh, I just realized I assumed you were cross-cutting. Are you trying to rip? That's a different story. Do you have your work well supported? Maybe you need to insert a spreader behind the cut so it won't bind the blade. Any saw can get bound up when ripping and the board is twisty and not supported well.

Bob

[Charles Lerner]

One other thing to try. It is possible that you're not following a straight enough line and the blade is binding (getting sort of wedged in a non straight cut). Try clamping a piece of wood to the 2x4 to act as a guide to run the base of the saw against to keep it cutting in a straight line and prevent any binding.

Charles Lerner

[Ajit Joshi]

Thank you all for your advice. As many of you suspected, it was the loose blade case and worked like a charm when I tightened the bolt. It is my first time using a circular saw, thus the troubles.

I am trying to finish my basement myself, so I probably will post lot more questions here. Thanks again for the responses.

-ajit

[Doug Miller]

You might think about posting to alt.home.repair as well.

-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

[GARY]

One problem I've had with my old B&D saw is the safety guard sometimes doesn't rotate up. This will keep the saw from advancing through the wood. You may have to move the guard by hand. Also make sure the blade is sharp and not turned backwards. Gary