Belt sanders have a crown on the rollers too.
I would venture to guess that the crown allows the blade to pivot
slightly. If the blade on the cutting side is pushed back slightly the
rigidity of the blade causes the blade to come forward on the opposite
side of the wheel to counter act the tendency to come off of the wheels.
It makes sense that if ther is a high spot on the wheels you want that
spot in the center vs. the front or back.
A high spot was on both front and back would cause the blade to dull
Thank you. That explained tracking and at the end of the video another
witness that guides are not necessary per the comment about the band saw
mill that used no guides and had teeth on both sides of the blade for
sawing in both directions.
My tires are flat rubber hoops, but out of curiosity, I placed a square
across the tire surface and sure 'nuf, there is a very slight crown,
maybe 10 mils at the center across 1 1/4" of width. My wheels must be
machined with an ever so slight crown (learn something every day!)
I still run narrow blades (1/2" and smaller) with the teeth hanging off
the front of the tire as recommended, never get any movement, but I'd
assume that tweaking the tracking is effectively putting a pseudo-crown
under the center of the blade.
Teeth off the front of the rubber?
How old is the saw? What brand? I wonder if the tire is worn.
Old saws didn't have much crown and had rubber, which hardened or wore
down. Maybe your tire needs replacement.
I let my narrow blades ride in the center. I don't usually have to touch
my saw, other than set the thrust bearing and guides.
I wonder if the tire is worn.
Nope, just SOP for these saws.
I fried (melted) my tires when I was resawing some really tough wood
with a 1-1/4" 0.035" thick blade, about the max I'd ever try to tension
on that saw. Usually the tires are supposed to last "forever" (_they_
say), but other then the melted sections, the rubber was nice and
pliable. Bummer is new rubber ran $40 each.
I could run in the center, but the teeth would tend to eat up the tire
surface given the minimal crown. I have a 1960's 14" Powermatic that is
more typical in that the blades need to run in the center. This saw has
flat machined wheels so the tires supply the crown. I replaced the
original rubber with urethane, which were also flat. The tire mfg.
suggested building up the crown with strips of tape placed in the center
of the wheel (under the tire), 1/4" strip on top of a 1/2" strip.
The crown is visible and the blade loves to seek out that high point.
That second saw lets me keep a 1/4" blade on the 14" saw for general
cutting and curves and leave the MM set up for resawing. BIG time saver
not having to swap out blades in the middle of a project.
I have not had to replace the urethane tire on my Delta . I would have
thought the urethane tires have the crown built in. But I don't know as
I've never taken off the tire. Maybe some do and some don't.
I usually run a 1/2 blade unless doing something curvy. So my narrower
blades get much less use.
Thanks, for the info, I had never heard of that, but I guess it makes sense.
Not necessarily achievable with any band saw. I learned that guides were
not necessary, on a good saw and blade when I view sited Mnimax for a
private demo of, IIRC, an MM16 band saw 10 years ago.
Unfortunately the only MM16 that they had to show was missing the upper
and lower guides. I was not happy about that but the rep said they were
not necessary on a rigid saw. Right he was, he and I both made several
cuts, straight and curved, on several thickness woods with no problems.
Ultimately I bought the
Laguna LT 16 HD.
Congratulations, little drummer boi! Your gut-wrenching
ignorance is now permanently archived for the amusement of
future generations of woodworkers worldwide! LOLOK
Please pardon me while I push my guts back through the
hernia hole that laughing at your post has caused me to do.
Lonnie Bird was at our local Woodcraft last Saturday demonstrating his line of CMT router bits. I showed Lonnie your message on my iphone he said you were more full of shit than a
thanksgiving turkey then lectured our class on the staggering amount of misinformation on the internet.
Who is Lonnie Bird?
He is there to sell you something. I got my information from the
MiniMax rep. Granted you should use guides but you can saw with out them.
I suspect the Minimax rep knows worlds more about this subject than him.
And to bring you up to speed on this. I visited the home office at
Minimax to demo the MM16. Unfortunately for both of us, me and the rep
showing me the saw, there were no guides on the MM16. We sawed with
guides anyway per his comment that you can saw with out guides.
Lonnie Bird wrote a book on bandsaws. The typography and pictures were
better than the same vintage Duginski book, but I don't remember enough
about the content to give you an idea of its quality.
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