I needed a 105" 3/16" 4TPI bandsaw blade ASAP, and bought a Sterling
by Diamond Saw blade from Highland Hardware. Mounted it up, adjusted
tension, tracking, and guides and cut up a fresh UHDMP insert.
Powered up the saw, confirmed alignment and proceeded to gently cut
through an old 2" scrap. BAM - the blade broke 2" into the cut.
Inspection of the blade confirmed that the butt weld had broken.
Annoyed about losing an hour, I drove back and they cheerfully
replaced the blade, and I bought an extra - just in case. Remounted
the new blade, adjusted it up again, let it run for a few minutes, and
gently cut up some scrap to condition the blade. Proceeded to cut a
scrolling pattern in 4.5" thick material, and managed to complete the
task. Went to cut a small wooden shim from a 2" piece of scrap and
BAM! - The blade broke again - at the weld.
Now maybe I'm a moron, but I *think*
I know how to set up a blade in a
bandsaw properly and even have fancy measuring instruments that no one
else uses for those 'difficult' situations. I have new urethane tires
which, incidentally, are *much*
better than the OEM units.
Closely examining the welds at the store revealed that they look
poorly done. Like some guy in his garage had welded these things up
and used a die grinder to cut off the slag. Some of them even had
cracks beginning to appear in the weld while hanging on the shelf.
According to the MFG's site, they package their sized blades in a
protective covering - these blades are simply coiled with a tag, and
held with a wire tie. Could it be that a local welder is buying bulk
rolls of blade material and welding them, and placing a Diamond Tag on
Why are scarf joints not used on blades? Why are they but welded with
poor quality welds? Are Carbon Steel blades really this bad?
How much better are the Suffolk blades?
Do the welds break this easily?
had not invisioned adding $15 for a new blade to the cost
of every project...