Hi all. First post here. After working in my dad's commercial cabinet shop for 12 years growing up, I'm now out on my own and putting together my own garage workshop for my amusement.
My new Grizzly 14" bandsaw arrived yesterday, and I'm wondering what brand of blades I should buy. Anyone have any suggestions? I don't mind paying for quality if it will serve me well.
Thanks in advance, Tim
I've had all kinds and price ranges of blades. I found that some of the more expensive blades covered for my lack of tuning experience. I now use $10-12 Olsen and BC Saw blades with great results.
Barry
Olsen, Woodslicer (Highland Hardware)
Dave
gator_garage_woodsh> Hi all. First post here. After working in my dad's commercial cabinet
My G0555 14" Ultimate bandsaw came yesterday also. I've been searching the archives for a couple of weeks finding out everything I could about this perticular bandsaw and what I would need to do to get set up proper and came to the conclusion Timberwolf blades from
On a side note I found
I've really only used the Timberwolf blades - and the no-name cheapie that came with my Delta saw plus a couple Woodcraft brand blades. I'm very satisfied with the Timberwolf performance as well as the ordering/receiving process. (Order by phone and generally receive by USPS Priority Mail within 4 days or so.)
Considering that 3D Saw Blades is merely a middleman to both Forrest and Suffolk Machine (Timberwolf) they better be the same blades. Additionally, 3D is charging more than direct from Suffolk. I happen to have a receipt from a recent order from Suffolk and costs for the two
105" blades (1/4", 6 tooth & 3/8", 3 tooth) was about 25%-30% less going direct than the prices listed on 3Ds site. (Both charge similar for shipping - $6.70 for my order.)Suffolk - 1-800-234-7297
First you need to decide what types of sawing you planning on doing:
Resawing thick (3", 6", 9") pieces? Rough cutting green wood? General purpose cutting in 1"-2" stock? Curves with tight radii?
Once you've decided what's important, give Suffolk Machinery a call - makers of Timberwolf blades - and the phone guy or gal will recommend which of their blades will best serve your uses. They really are knowledgeable and will direct you to the best product they have to suit your needs - the cost differences between the different blade configurations is only a few bucks, so they aren't out to sell you something just to make more money.
The blade prices for a 14" saw with no riser run about $15.30 to $22, with most in the $16.50-$17.50 range.
BTW, when I ordered a couple/few weeks back, they were running a special: buy 3 blades get another free - I don't know how long that promo was running, but it might be worth it to ask.
Suffolk Machinery - 1-800-234-7297
You might want to remember Grizzly's cool block holder guide, PN P1019005A, in the event you want to replace ball bearing guide to a Block guide. Each block guide cost $2.50 - two require. Further, Woodcraft's is having a sales on their
1/2" Olson cool guide blocks (Woodcraft's P/N 49H02) for $10.10.I suggest you try Olson BS blade, instead of Timberwolf.
Sorry, forgot to add, I have a bad experienced with Southfolk and I promised never to buy from them again. Try Olson, you will not regret it.
Thanks very much for all the informative responses. I think I'll be giving Suffolk a call soon. Their website was very informative. I'm looking forward to trying out the Timberwolf blades.
Tim, I'm sure no one agrees with me but I use Grizzly blades as I never had a problem with them. I have the G1073 16" saw, 113" blades.Been using this saw about 4 or 5 years, broke two blades so far. I sharpen the blades with 4 teeth per inch or less, get a lot of milage out of them. Very easy to do with a Dremel tool and chainsaw grinding wheel. I use the 3/16" cylinder shaped wheel. mike
Wouldn't you need 4 of the Block holders (assuming you replace the lower bearings as well) or are they sold in pairs? Cheers, cc
What's the advantage of using the block guides instead of the bearings?
Just as an aside - I stopped in Woodcraft Saturday and was looking at Band Saws. The sales guy was talking about bearing guides and I made the comment "don't most guys take those off and put on blocks ?".
He looked at me as if I'd just farted in front of him and said "No ! - it's just the opposite ! No one likes, or wants to use blocks when they can have bearings - bearings are a LOT better than blocks"
I'm not a Band Saw guy (yet) so I din't argue with him. Just seems like I've heard differently here.
jim
Blocks work better for narrow blades (1/4"). Imagine the teeth of a 1/4 blade hitting the bearings. Not a good thing; you'll instantly dull your blade.
Dave
gator_garage_woodsh> What's the advantage of using the block guides instead of the bearings? >
When I ordered my Grizzly G1019 a number of years ago I also ordered their ball bearing guides. The ball bearing guides were so poorly made the wouldn't adjust to within an 1/8" of the blade. There was so much slop they were useless. I went back to the block guides and picked up a set of "Cool Blocks".
Hopefully Grizzly's quality control on their ball bearing guides have improved since I ordered mine.
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
They are sold in pairs and you need two pairs. When you call Grizzly, just give them the part number P1019005A.
You might be interested to know Woodcraft is having a sales now for their Olsen's Cool Block now. I bought two sets (8 pcs).
Olsen for day to day use. Best bang for the buck that I've found. Highland Hardware Woodslicer for critical resaw use. Sharp and incredibly smooth, but pricey.
(Timberwolf, IMO, is overrated and overpriced.)
Published e-mail address is for spam collection only. If e-mailing me, use jc631 at optonline dot net
-- jc
Speaking of BC saw blades, there is a great article in Dec2004 FWW magazine about bandsaw tips. The author mentions that he uses the regular carbon blades that BC sells. They're made by Starrett, so you know the quality is there.
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