Damn Olson blades.

I had a 1/2 x 105" 3TPI hook tooth band saw blade. it has been in the box for a little over 5 years. I had bought it thinking I needed a blade, and could not get a Timberwolf in time. but I did get the timberwolf. Well this blade SUCKS.
After uncoiling it and running it for about 30 minutes it has a set in it that won't come out. On high tension I still can't get it to run clean. This is going in the trash and will be the last Olson I'll ever buy...
VIDEO of wobble :
https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4

https://youtu.be/I1KgpJFGdU4

--
Jeff

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On Thursday, November 10, 2016 at 8:33:24 PM UTC-6, woodchucker wrote:

Jeff, I have tried Olson, Timberwolf and Carter bandsaw blades. The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.
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On 11/11/16 5:58 AM, Dr. Deb wrote:

The absolute best I have found is the house blade from Highland Hardware.

Not trying to start a brand war, but my saw came with several 1" 3TPI Olson's, they dulled way too quickly. Same with the Timberwolf blades I replaced them with.
I didn't find a good blade until I tired the HH stock
(I know carbide would rule, but I still haven't been able to pry open my wallet enough, though the purchase of the Festool Pro5 shows that the bugger is starting to crack...)
-BR
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;-)
FWIW, the "voucher" for the next tool isn't. It's a factory rebate coupon, no matter what it says on it. You have to go to the a web site and enter the coupon number, the model, and serial number of the additional tool, then "wait 6 to 8 weeks" for a check).
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wrote:

Anybody got a link? I just did a google search for Highland Hardware Bandsaw Blade and got Highland Woodworking for most results below the paid listings.
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On 11/11/2016 3:51 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:

For your purposes Highland Hardware = Highland Woodworking. If you are looking for their house brand resaw blade then it is in this neighborhood:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx
I find them to be pretty good blades overall but like any others they can start to get a bit 'funny' when they feel like it -- first they are tracking and cutting perfectly then they aren't.
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wrote:

Thank you.
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For resawing the blade is 'Wood Slicer' and it's 'Highland Woodworking' http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx
For all other bandsaw blade needs/sizes I suggest you can't do better than the fine folk @ http://www.woodcraftbands.com/Pricing%20page.htm
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wrote:

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bandsaw-blades-accessories.aspx
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wrote:

For all who replied... Thank you. I already ordered a couple for my little Rigid bandsaw. And some cool blocks. If they work out it will save me another project. I was going to make a bearing roller setup for it like the one on my metal cutting bandsaw.
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You'll want to take a look at this FAQ: https://web.archive.org/web/20040804100748/http://www.klownhammer.org/cro wbar/
It was the best I could find.
Puckdropper
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On Fri, 11 Nov 2016 04:58:01 -0800, Dr. Deb wrote:

Haven't tried Carter, but otherwise my experience is the same.
--
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doesn't look like it is aligned correctly. The running bearing isn't turning at all. No touch.
How did you uncoil it ? Throw it down on the floor - did that do something ?
Have you verified the wheels run true ? Maybe the top wobbles.
Do you have a Timberwolf blade that runs true ? Any ?
Martin
On 11/10/2016 8:33 PM, woodchucker wrote:

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On 11/11/16 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:

The bearing doesn't have to turn when not engaged and cutting. Some people (hand up) adjust that bearing so it will only touch the blade when cutting and there's nothing wrong with that.
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-MIKE-

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On 11/11/2016 9:19 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Yep ... I eyeball it to the thickness of a sheet of paper/$bill when setting mine.
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And remember if the blade moves very far - what is it doing on the wheels? and to itself. A tiny bit - I like the old man thoughts - Use a sheet of cig paper - I have a pack in my metal lathe G-box.
Do you use dial indicators on the wheels as they turn at speed ? or is it only in idle and hand turned... Or at all ?
do your wheels have a flat spot on the rubber band from being kept at tension for a long time ? And the wheel(s) cause the oscillation ?
Martin
On 11/12/2016 8:27 AM, Swingman wrote:

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On 11/11/2016 7:13 PM, Martin Eastburn wrote:

Not necessary, a good blade and a good band saw do not need guides at all.
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On 11/12/16 1:04 PM, Leon wrote:

+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to set up their saws.
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On 11/12/2016 6:56 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
--
Jeff

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On 11/12/16 6:41 PM, woodchucker wrote:

I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With those things being attained, the guides are pretty much irrelevant.
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