Got an LED flashlight where the batteries leaked and made the
push-button switch on the end not work.
Just looking at it, I can see deposits from the leakage, but cannot get
to them to physically clean them off.
Can anybody recommend something to splash on there to dissolve said
deposits without messing things up more?
It sounds as if the first step is to get rid of the potassium hydroxide.
Deoxit D5 is 95% propellant and naphtha and 5% D100L, a trade secret.
It doesn't sound good for removing potassium hydroxide.
I'd use vinegar. I don't know how long it would take. CLR is stronger.
Then I'd rinse thoroughly.
When I had to dry a light where I couldn't get to the switch, I used
rubbing alcohol to get most of the water out. I'd turn an oven on for a
couple of minutes, turn it off, and check the temperature with an IR
thermometer. I was looking for about 125F. I'd put the light in, go
about my business, and come back to warm the oven again. In 24 hours
the light was dry. Maybe an incandescent bulb would maintain a good
The D5 spray sounds like a good way to get D100L to an inaccessible switch.
You can get the d100 100 % solution. It's red. Don't know what's in it.
The original red solution by cramolin had oleic acid in it. It cleans well.
Caig did not make cramolin. They imported it. Electricall by caig had a 10
% solution, no longer available. The caig 100 % solution in the dispenser
works pretty well compared to the sprays.
You can also clean with oleic acid. Olive oil has oleic acid. You can also
use that, but must be removed prior to using. Some use oleic acid and
naphtha. I would use alcohol instead.
Guess what. I did cleaner testing over 10 years ago. I never made a video
back then. I tested several sprays and stuff. As I indicated, some stuff is
best dissolved with water. Here, a guy tested three things, similar to the
test I did. I'll post my test later.
It seems like three kinds of cleaners. One has solvents that don't
affect metals or plastics and leave no residue. Another has solvents
and leaves a film. A third would brighten tarnished copper.
I've read that when power companies connect transmission lines, they
don't care if the copper is dull with copper oxide. Dull copper doesn't
solder well, but does it add significant resistance to contacts?
On Friday, November 14, 2014 10:46:27 PM UTC-5, J Burns wrote:
to do a pretty good job.
I can't explain it but it works. Better than plain old water.
If I'd had something like Electromotive handy last time I had to do this I
probably would have tried that first, then finished with Deoxit for protect
May I suggest some nice Eneloops (Duracell Ion Core are supposedly rebrands
) for a regularly used light, or some Energizer lithium primaries for an em
ergency light? That's what I've gone to due to my own disgust with the see
ming increased frequency of alkalines leaking.
The contact cleaners I've used are solvents that leave no residue. It
seems as if cleaners that leave a film, should have another name.
It seems the users who recommend Deoxit at Amazon, use it for
potentiometers. I've always found that the no-residue kind works fine
The NiCad battery pack had leaked KOH into my Isotip. Warm water
cleaned up the deposits.
The copper is stained. In this circuit, 0.05 ohm where it makes contact
would be too much. Sometimes corroded contacts that are cleaned up,
won't work reliably in the future.
I wonder if Deoxit would make sure the stained copper in my Isotip would
continue to make good contact.
I have a cordless phone with a headset. If I leave it plugged in a
couple of days, the incoming and outgoing sound gets scratchy. If I
wipe the plug on my shirt, that fixes it. I wonder if Deoxit would
prevent that problem.
I had some how not noticed you wrote alkalines.
Wasn't sure if they were carbon zincs, lithium,
Anyhow, yes, I've also had Duracells leak, and
Rayovacs. Not sure why they are having quality
I hope you get your light working again.
Christopher A. Young
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