I have a Broan Allure hood range that I installed a year ago. The
other day I replaced a burnt out light bulb and both lights worked
fine. A couple of days later I noticed that both lights were burned
out so I replaced them with new bulbs, the lights still don't work. I
read somewhere that it could be a light switch or lamp holder socket
but still don't know where to begin. I was told to contact Broan but
am hoping I can fix the problem myself. Any ideas?
It's not likely that both sockets went bad at the same time. The common
denominator is the switch that controls them or the wiring to and from that
switch. I'd kill the power to the unit, expose the wiring and switch, check
for loose connections and if all is tight, remove the switch and test it for
I tested the bulbs on a lamp and they are both burned out. Both of the
bulbs were good and now they don't work. I'm guessing it is the wiring
or the switch but I don't know for sure.
Joseph Meehan wrote:
First thing, see if you can access the switch. Maybe you can get to the
back of that switch by removing a cover plate or perhaps the filter.
Turn off the power Use a proximty tester (checks magnetic field around the
wire...no need to bare connection) to check the outer sheath of the romex
or whatever cable that comes into the junction box. It will probably be a
12-2 w/g, one black, one white, one bare. Make sure it is off.
Now jiggle the connections lightly and visually inspect. You're looking for
any loose wires, sometimes one of the small wires will be twisted around the
larger one, but has worked its way above the wirenut and be twisted around
insulation rather than copper. If something like that, then secure the
connection and see if it works. Let's assume that is not the problem and go
to the next most likely.
Find the wires leading to the lamp holders. There should be two wires from
each of the two lampholders. One set will go to the neutral, one set to
switch. With the power turned off slightly tug on the neutrals to make sure
they are secure at the wirenut that fastens them to the neutral. Then do
the same with the other two wires leading to the switch.
Chances are you will find a wire loose. It will probably be pretty obvious
when you look at it and very likely be slightly touching the group it is
supposed to be hooked up to. If that be the case, with the power turned off
even up the ends of those wires and slightly twist them, always clockwise to
the stiffer romex wire, and re-attach the wire nut.
If all is secure, then determine if there is one switch for lights and fan
or separate switches for each. If there is only one switch then see if you
can arrange the wire nut connecting the two small wires from the light to
the switch in a way to allow a tester probe to be inserted on bare copper
without breaking the connection. With power turned on check between this
bare spot and a similar one on the connection to the white wire. If you
have voltage the problem is somewhere between that point and the
lampholders. If you don't, then push or turn all positions of the switch,
checking all of them. If there is no voltage in any of the positions, Then
check the voltage between the wirenut connecting the larger black wire to a
lead to the switch..
If there is power leading to the switch, especially if that same switch
controls the fan and the fan works, then you have a bad switch. Before you
try to find a replacement switch, disconnect the two wires coming from the
lampholders to the switch. Connect those to the larger black wire and turn
on the power. If you have light now, you'll know you need a replacement
If you're really handy, you could count the total leadwires from the bad
switch and obtain another similar switch from maybe home depot or any
appliance repair shop. It might be better if you order it directly from a
Broan supplier using a number off the case of the switch or from the
warranty info if you still have that. There are several different types of
switches that might have the same number of lead wires. You'd need to be
fairly knowledgeable to figure all that out correctly to use a substitute
Replace the bad switch with the new one removing one group of wires at a
time from the old to the new until they are all re-connected and then you
should have things fixed. The only other problem that might have happened
would be the little brass tab inside the screwshell could be pressed down to
far and not making contact with the lamp........but since you have two lamps
not working that would require both of them to have gone out the
A lot of people think they know what they are doing on these simple tasks,
but they really do not. Bad things can happen if you make a mistake.
Seriously, if the mistake is bad enough it could cause death, so make sure
you know what you are doing or let someone else do it.
Should the lampholder brass tabs be a problem.......with the power turned
off.......an electrician might insert needle nose pliars into the screw
shell and pull those brass tabs out a bit. Lots of things could go wrong
doing this if you don't know what your doing, so I'd definitely save that
for a professional.
There is a reason why electricians make $5.00 an hour....or is it $5.50 now?
On 25 Jun 2006 14:45:08 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Is this the model with low, medium, and high brightness buttons? If
so, this unit doesn't have a standard "switch" for the lamp control.
It has a small electronic dimmer control board with 3 pushbuttons for
low, medium, and high brightness. You can still check for loose
connections as others have suggested, but I'm bettng on the control
board or its fuse. Any chance you used too high of wattage bulbs? IIRC
it's only rated for lower wattage bulbs.
replying to scarlat91, Darius wrote:
I have a Broan Allure QS1 Series Range hood that the lights just stop working
what could be the problem. I keep reading on some of the reviews that it might
be the switch since both lights went out
replying to scarlat91, Mr "Tired of fixing a lemon" wrote:
I've had the same problem crop up every year or two with this range hood. The
light socket wires are riveted to socket terminals. These rivets work themselves
loose overtime. Broan claims no knowledge of this issue. Maybe a different
brand range hood would be in order.
replying to Mr "Tired of fixing a lemon", Eric B. wrote:
I'm having the same problem with my Nutone Allure lights. It's the sockets. If I
pull up the brass connector at the bottom of the socket, it works for a while
and goes out again. I suspect this poor connection is why I keep going through
replying to Eric B., Kelly W. wrote:
Replying to Eric B The Nutone Allure brand is affiliated with BROAN-SO unsure if
they changed the name due to these problems but this whole thread is linked to
the original BroanAllure . Strange why they think a name change fixes everything
why not fix the problem!!!!
replying to Mr "Tired of fixing a lemon", Kelly W. wrote:
Just to inform you Nutone is the same as BROAN SO IF you are changing your hood
fan (mine is new) so obviously you will be having the same problems buying a
*NUTONE ALLURE* if you've had a *BROAN ALLURE* STILL FRUSTRATED!!!
replying to scarlat91, Rusty Nuts wrote:
Per Eric B's below response in Feb 2017, at the very bottom of the socket is a
central contact that touches the center of the plug on the bulb. Every once in a
while he has to use a pair of pliers and pull this tab down to make full contact
with the bulb, otherwise the poor contact goes through bulbs quite often. I was
having the same issue - in fact it stopped touching certain bulb types
altogether. NOTE: I was using 50 Watt halogens that get quite hot and I am
assuming this heat makes the issue of poor quality light sockets (weak metal
tabs) worse. MY SOLUTION: I'm now using LED bulbs in the range hood. They
don't get very hot so hopefully the problem won't recur. We'll see!
replying to Rusty Nuts, Disco light range hood wrote:
That is exactly what was wrong with mine. Thanks! I was sweating trying to
figure out what to do since the backsplash stops at the vent hood and I didn’t
want to replace the whole thing. I’m going to try LEDs as well.
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