+100points!!! I've re-sawed 8" on my old Delta without any guides at all. Co-planer wheels, good tension, and a sharp, true blade are much more important than guides. I would go so far as to say guides were invented to make up for crappy manufacturing and lazy woodworkers who don't take the time to set up their saws.
I would never try that. When you push on a blade it wants to bend back, if it does it wants to change direction.. At least that's what I believe to be true... so guides for me... BUT, I'll test a 2x6 when I get new blade.
I stand by what I wrote. After much research and experimentation, that's what I came to witness as true. Co=planer wheels. Proper tension. High quality, sharp & true blade (proper for intended purpose, as well!).
I will add that it is helpful to figure out the drift (if any) on each blade to get the cutting to run straight and true. With those things being attained, the guides are pretty much irrelevant.
And remember if the blade moves very far - what is it doing on the wheels? and to itself. A tiny bit - I like the old man thoughts - Use a sheet of cig paper - I have a pack in my metal lathe G-box.
Do you use dial indicators on the wheels as they turn at speed ? or is it only in idle and hand turned... Or at all ?
do your wheels have a flat spot on the rubber band from being kept at tension for a long time ? And the wheel(s) cause the oscillation ?
Mart> >
Congratulations, little drummer boi! Your gut-wrenching ignorance is now permanently archived for the amusement of future generations of woodworkers worldwide! LOLOK
Please pardon me while I push my guts back through the hernia hole that laughing at your post has caused me to do.
Awww, how adorable. I have another anonymous pussy, internet stalker troll. Thank you, I'm flattered.
Not necessarily achievable with any band saw. I learned that guides were not necessary, on a good saw and blade when I view sited Mnimax for a private demo of, IIRC, an MM16 band saw 10 years ago. Unfortunately the only MM16 that they had to show was missing the upper and lower guides. I was not happy about that but the rep said they were not necessary on a rigid saw. Right he was, he and I both made several cuts, straight and curved, on several thickness woods with no problems. Ultimately I bought the Laguna LT 16 HD.
How do you avoid pushing the blade off the wheels? I have pulled the blade off when backing out on 2 occassions... so how does the blade stay.. you would need to push absolutely perfect to make sure cut and feed rate are perfect. Not so easy.
It may have worked for you, but I am reluctant to try it.
Tension. Most people have too little tension of their blades.
When backing out? How are guides behind the wheel going to stop you from pulling the blade off when backing out? Did I misunderstand?
Sharp blades and only using enough forward pressure to push the wood through as the cut material is evacuated. If you're trying to force the stock through the blade, the blade is too dull or you're just impatient. :-)
It works for the folks at Laguna (Leon's story) who make one the best bandsaws available.
have never tried resawing on mine and the first time i watched a video of someone resawing was not sure what i was seeing
ok the guy had a much nicer setup but he was making cuts i did not think were possible on a bandsaw
maybe a thicker kerf instead of a wider blade would help
good idea sounds useful
For all who replied... Thank you. I already ordered a couple for my little Rigid bandsaw. And some cool blocks. If they work out it will save me another project. I was going to make a bearing roller setup for it like the one on my metal cutting bandsaw.
On occasion I have had to back out, that is similar to no guides. I have wrecked the blade both times when it came off the wheel.
When moving forward the thrust bearing prevents the blade from moving back, so the blade would never come off.
Yeah, I see what you're saying. There are other factors involved in backing up in the kerf that aren't present in forward cutting.
By the way, along with all the other factors I listed in my first post on this subject, you also should make sure your blade is running (tracking) on the proper spot on the wheels with regards to the crown.
You will find differing information out there as to whether to have the blade on center, slightly forward, etc., etc. What I have found is that is varies slightly with each blade and their different widths and thicknesses. I usually make test cuts to see where each blade want to ride on the wheels so as not to be pushed or pulled.
You obviously haven't even a cursory grasp of what the f*ck you are talking about, drummer boi.
Sickening isn't it? Why sure it is. What a horrifying existence one must have to suffer through, to troll a news group with this non-stop spew of empty headed drivel. And having one and one thing only on your agenda, that being to draw attention to one's self. When one is this desperate for the spotlight, any attention, good or bad, seems to be perfectly acceptable and this has me scratching my head trying to understand the mentality behind this behavior. My only guess at this point would be that in order for one to be able to stand looking in the mirror at themselves after posting a barrage of self-admittedly idiotic messages as in this case, it would take a complete breakdown of one's self esteem. It has really got to suck big time to be this hard up for attention eh?
That is totally different, the blade does not cut in reverse so the reverse pressure on the blade pulls it off of the wheels. When cutting the pressure is less and the blades naturally try to stay on the wheels, hense they don't touch the guides when just spinning.
Some band saws will require guides, not all do. Granted under heavy pressure the blade can be forced off but getting back to the original problem, a bad blade, guides do not make one brand blade wobble.
No, I have done it with a Minimax MM16. Hard to believe but experiencing this proved for me.
Nor should you try, it is just an odd perk of having a top end band saw and good blade. I would not normally do this but in a pinch...
Tracking also changes between not cutting and cutting. It can track exactly as you want when turning the wheel by hand but will move back a bit when cutting.
I spent a lot of time truing this saw. It is riding on the crown. I had to true the wheels when I got this saw long ago. I had to remove the pins on the riser to get the wheels coplanar because the riser was not drilled correctly. I also had to put a shim behind a wheel . But once I got everything was worked out it has been a good saw. Wish I had gone for the 1.5 hp over the 1hp.
I don't find that to be true. If your guides are right where they should be the guide takes the pressure and does not change the tracking at all. And I assume this is because it is well tuned as well.
I wrote guides, but meant thrust bearing.
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