So for Christmas I was the lucky recipient of the Grizzly G0555 Bandsaw. I've never used a bandsaw before but I noticed that when making cuts, resawing a 2x4 for example, the blade leaves a series of ridges, wondering if this was normal or whether I have something setup incorrectly. I'm just using the blade that came with it.
First issue: blades included with mass market BS always SUCK. Pick up an Olson, Timberwolf, or better yet, Woodslicer blade. Make sure to get the proper blade for the job. There's lots of info at
Second: the results won't ever be as smooth as what comes off a TS with a quality blade.
David
damian penney wrote:
Okay fair enough, on my table saw I have a WoodWorker II blade so I'm used to getting glassy cuts. Also when cutting do you expect it to cut with a 'throb' ?
I've noticed a throb when using a finely tuned saw :-) But that's probably not what you mean.
The throb is likely the blade splice weld as it passes the workpiece or blade guides. Sounds like a lesser quality band.
--
******** Bill Pounds
That'll spoil ya'.
No, not really. In my case I heard something like that and got the ridges in the cuts before I learned to adjust my fence for blade drift.
Check out the November/December 2004 "Fine Woodworking" for an article called "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing". Lots of useful info there.
Blade drift eh.... yeah that could be it; I'll dig out my copy of FWW and read that article again.
The blade that came with my G0555 had a LOT of "lead", or drift. Right now I have the riser kit and a Griz 3/4" 3TPI blade that cuts straight to the fence w/o any fence adjustment.
"damian penney" wrote in news:1104339504.914180.160990 @f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:
Pretty much. A better blade will give a smoother cut. I mostly use Timberwolf blades (Suffolk Machinery), but the Woodslicer blades from Highland Hardware are said (in magazine reviews) to produce a smoother cut.
I've not really noticed the "thrumming" that you mention in another post. I've had an occasional "tic-tic" sound from my saw, that was due to either a bad weld in the blade or a (user-induced) kink in the blade.
On the G0555, be careful not to set the side bearings too close to the teeth -- lots of us G0555 users have ruined a blade that way.
Cheers, Nate
I've heard the 3/4" blades were really not intended to work with 14" saws but I have the same situation you do. Using the riser and the 3/4" blade, I can resaw to a gnats ass with no drift.
Don
Those ridges, if they're not too extreme, are normal. A bandsaw doesn't cut as smooth and clean as a table saw. That 90-inch long skinny strip of steel that forms the blade is nowhere near as rigid as the 10 inch disc of a TS blade. And at $15-20 for a blade with 300 or more teeth, you don't get the same precision as a $80-100 TS blade with 40 teeth.
That said, some blades are better than others and the one that came with the saw is probably a cheapie. I like the (good and reasonably priced) Olson All-Pro blades for everyday use, and the (very good but expensive) Highland Hardware Woodslicer for critical resawing. Lots of folks here swear by Timberwolf blades but I find them overpriced and unimpressive. As always, YMMV. Fine Woodworking reviewed about a dozen different BS blades not too long ago (a year?); you might want to see if you can find a copy of that issue at the local library.
-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
Sounds like a not-so-perfect weld. You'll be pleasantly surprised how much better the BS performs with a quality blade. You can try carefully cleaning up the weld if it's thick, but if it's crooked you'll need to replace it.
David
damian penney wrote:
snip
Also when cutting do you expect it to cut
Even a new bandsaw could use a tune up. Get Duginske's "The Bandsaw Book." Band saws can be rather finicky and there is a big difference when they get out of whack. It is normal for a bandsaw cut will leave some ridges, depending on the blade, type of wood, feed rate, etc. For resawing, you want the widest blade, blade lead adjustments, and possibly a high fence.
Well the first time I set it up the blade did decide to run itself into the bearings, fixed that though, then there was some rubber on the cuts, looking at the wheels they didn't look scored at all though, that went away pretty quickly though. So now I guess I've just ruined the already poor blade on it. I'll order a new one and see how that goes. Thanks for all the info.
Also another quick question, in the manual it says to place the thrust bearing four widths of a dollar bill behind the blade, while finewoodworking says to adjust it to just touch the back of the blade. What do people here do?
Okay and last question, when setting the guide bearings the manual says when tightened they should still move, does this mean move without moving the blade? Or does it just mean be able to turn (I suspect the former).
Thanks again, Damian
[snip]
Do you use an on-line source for these?
No, I buy them at a local fine-tool emporium. But a google search for "olson all pro" turns up a number of on-line sources.
-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
My approach with both the thrust bearing and the guide blocks (I have blocks, not bearings) is basically, as close as I can get it without actually touching.
For the thrust bear>Also another quick question, in the manual it says to place the thrust
-- jc Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection. If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
I use blocks on my G0555 instead of bearings. I simply bought a 1/2" oak dowel and cut into small pieces that I use for blocks. Doing it this way, I can pinch the entire blade without worry about damaging the gullets. It provides great support and replacements are dirt cheap.
Don
Wouldn't using wood as a guide generate a great deal of heat?
damian penney asks:
Why would using wood as a guide generate more heat, than, say steel.
Charlie Self "A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to the ground." H. L. Mencken
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.