I wasn't aware of the four for three deal. I bought two with one being
slightly under $18 and one being a little over. Not exactly twice, but not
enough better in my opinion to warrant the extra cost - (if you don't do the
same deal you did).
I also read the reviewed on FWW, I went ahead and bought Timberwolf's blades
with the recommendation of folks here. Timberwolf blades were really
disappointing even after replacement from Timberwolf. I than tried LV Viking
which, I believe a repackage of Timberwolf and I am not impress at all. My next
purchase will be an Olson "normal" or Olson Pro, which cost less than Timberwolf
I bought two blades, and tested only one. It make a "tumbling" sound, you can
see the blade moving in and out slightly, even after repeated adjustment. When I
called, to tell the of the trouble. They send one replacement blade, and told me
not to throw the blade as they might want it back. The replacement blades does
not fair any better. It's like sawing the lumber using (metal) hacksaw.
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
S'OK. Read your other reply. Sounds like it was not welded straight or
something, if other blades did not do this..
Even a new bandsaw could use a tune up. Get Duginske's "The Bandsaw
Book." Band saws can be rather finicky and there is a big difference
when they get out of whack. It is normal for a bandsaw cut will leave
some ridges, depending on the blade, type of wood, feed rate, etc.
For resawing, you want the widest blade, blade lead adjustments, and
possibly a high fence.
Also another quick question, in the manual it says to place the thrust
bearing four widths of a dollar bill behind the blade, while
finewoodworking says to adjust it to just touch the back of the blade.
What do people here do?
Okay and last question, when setting the guide bearings the manual says
when tightened they should still move, does this mean move without
moving the blade? Or does it just mean be able to turn (I suspect the
Thanks again, Damian
My approach with both the thrust bearing and the guide blocks (I have
blocks, not bearings) is basically, as close as I can get it without
For the thrust bearing this means bring it up until it touches and
then back it off until I can just spin it. For the guide blocks it's
a little more of a judgment call, since they don't spin and they don't
have a screw adjustment to back them off. I don't really know how
guide bearings are supposed to go, but my guess is that I'd use the
same approach as for the thrust bearing.
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I use blocks on my G0555 instead of bearings. I simply bought a 1/2" oak
dowel and cut into small pieces that I use for blocks. Doing it this way, I
can pinch the entire blade without worry about damaging the gullets. It
provides great support and replacements are dirt cheap.
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