Anyone else here hone their jointer blades after replacement?

[David]

I'll put the cutting quality of my jointer up against anything in it's class, so I DON'T think honing is a "bad" idea, as you suggested.

Dave

[David]

in other words, THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING. I get smoothly milled wood off my jointer, each and every time I run wood over it.

Dave

[CW]

True.

[CW]

True.

[CW]

Yes, a subtle dulling.

[David]

only when done by the inept.

Dave

[CW]

[bridger]

CW... ya oughta know better than to get in a titfertat with bay area davie...

but the procedure of spinning the blades against a stone isn't totally bunk. I'd never do it to a woodworking machine, but there are some setups where it really is the right thing to do.

it's basically a fine adjustment that does the same thing as the first bit of use of the machine- it dulls the blades a little bit, producing a microbevel (a tiny one only) with 0 relief angle. the edge produced is not as sharp as it was before this, but it will last longer.

done even slightly wrong it will do serious damage to your blades, your jointer and likely your body as well.

don't try it at home, folks.

[Greg G]

I thought so... Hey, Dave. ;-)

This is the conclusion I came to as well. The physics of the process just didn't add up to being the correct angle for 'honing'.

This, I am certain of.

Since you seem to be fairly well versed in this area, how about hand honing the installed blades with a diamond paddle for a few strokes, maintaining the original angles of the bevel - minus a degree. This is what I have been doing to sweeten the edges before cutting something difficult. Easy to rest the paddle hand on the outfeed table and hold the cutter head at the proper angle with the other.

I know the stroke direction isn't optimal, but it sure seems to work.

Greg G.

[bridger]

the disadvantage of this is that the only thing keeping the grind consistent is stroke count and your subjective "feel" of how hard you're leaning into it. if you're careful you can do OK, but after a short few times you'd better pull the blades, sharpen properly and reset them.

[Greg G]

Yup, that's what I do. That's why I said sweeten, not hone or sharpen... I left out the other parts for brevity - imagine that...

Thanks,

Greg G.

[David]

funny, but untrue.

They pass the "nick fingernail" test and they cut wood (oak and maple) superbly.

Just because YOU can't hone jointer blades correctly doesn't mean others can't.

Dave

[David]

The main "trick" is to be sure that the cut is VERY, VERY light.

Dave

[CW]

[Andy Dingley]

You'll no doubt also be interested in a tub of my Patent Anti-Elephant Omnibus Discouragement Dust. I sprinkle it out of the windows every time I travel by bus and have yet to be plagued by elephants. It obviously works perfectly.

I hone my jointer blades on the machine, with a diamond hone. But I do it with the machine very much off, and I use the correct angle for the blades, not a tangent.

[David]

tangential, when applied to a .002-.004 distance, does not affect the quality of the edge, my friend, your preconceptions notwithstanding.

Dave

[John Girouard]

Not picking sides or anything here, just truly curious. Wouldn't what Dave is talking about doing result in pretty much the same thing as micro bevel?

-John in NH

[CW]

Sure does. Take your Stanley #5, extend the blade about .002", run it accross a stone. Now, take that plane to a piece of wood. How well does it cut?

[CW]

No, a micro bevel is just a steeper bevel. It still provides clearence. The jointer method being discussed provides zero clearence.

[mike hide]

A joiner with that kind of geometry is called a burnisher .....mjh