A year or so back, there was a tip (in FWW) by Jimmy Carter on
sharpening jointer blades in-situ. I did not pay much attention at the
time, as I did not own a jointer, I have now acquired an old one with
3 sets of blades, 1 set is OK, just, but the other 2 are worse for
What was his technique?
I recall several FWW issues w/ Jimmy in them in various forms, but
nothing re: sharpening jointer knives...
I'll concur w/ the other posters--unless they only need a very light
touch up, unless you can set up a good jig to ensure maintaining a
completely straight edge and have a slow speed water wheel, grinding
them yourself is, while not impossible, error prone at best--and that's
assuming they're steel, not carbide.
Best to find a good sharpening service--but be sure they know what
they're doing--I once took a set to a fool who ground them by hand into
a nice set of hollow paint scrapers... :(
There are, of course, for larger jointers (typically 8" and up) "on the
machine" sharpening setups--the older 8" and larger Delta's for one have
drilled/tapped holes in the outfeed bed for mounting the carriage
mechanism. I don't know whether the new Deltas have that as a
feature/option or not?
There is a hand held hone that one can use to touch up jointer blades.
You can buy them from all the usual places, e.g. HD, LV, etc. If by
"worse for wear" you mean that they have nicks and flat spots, take/send
them to a professional sharpening service.
Incidentally, I used Ridge
(http://www.ridgecarbidetool.com/html/sharpening.htm ) for a blade and a
couple of router bits. I live in the sticks so shipping costs are
usually cheaper than an 30 mile drive. Results were good.
When I attended the University of Houston (back when woodworking was
taught in Texas schools), our woodworking teacher used a jig on the TS
to sharpen jointer blades. He mounted a thin stone on the TS arbor &
used a wood jig with the blade mounted in it to slide the jointer
blade across the stone. The jig was a sawkerf in a 2 x, with the blade
held in place with screws crimping the sawkerf onto the blade. The jig
with blade was slid along another board clamped securly to the TS
table. I believe the jig sawkerf was parallell to the tabletop. The
angle cut into the blade was dependent on the height of the stone
relative to the top. If you try this, make sure all the sawdust is
removed from under your saw first-- no sense in starting a fire.
way way back when I was doing a Technical Teaching course (wood and
metal work for high school) we used to touch up blades by backing a
sharpening stone from the outfeed table over the blades and lowering
the outfeed table until the stone was just in contact with the blades.
(There was a jig to clamp the stone to the table)
Not recommended today for safety reasons.
Haha, that's funny. But thanks, I'll give it a try. I also have
another method I found in FWW's "Woodworking Machinery" That uses a
small grindstone in a router, with a metal tongue to hold the blades
in a constant position.
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