On Mon, 23 Jul 2007 19:34:04 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
You can do it yourself but we have ours sharpened.
If I remember, a set of 3 (6 1/8") costs us about $10.00 plus tax to
be sharpened. We usually take in a bunch of stuff at one time so we
do have some volume but the knives are not expensive to have done.
Cheap. The reason I bought my Makita sharpener was because they wanted
fifty cents an inch (15 years ago) and I still had to clean up after the
sharpening on my honing stone.
In the interim I cut a saw kerf in a block of wood at the proper angle,
wedged the knives in it and raised it with thicknesses of paper and passed
it beneath a cone-shaped stone on my drillpress. Worked great, but the
I'm having a hard time visualizing this sharpening mechanism. Is the
block of wood against a fence to keep equal distance while pushing
the blade across the stone? How is the angle adjusted to the stone
in the drillpress? The joiner blade sharpening angle is 38 degrees.
If you're a member over at FWW, run the index. Kerf is at the proper angle
to present the bevel parallel to the table of the drillpress. 38 if that's
yours. The stone is lowered to kiss the tallest knife, then sheets of paper
added under to raise the entire apparatus as it's slud left and right..
I got the kerf concept with the blade placement. The issue is
moving the blade across the stone and keeping the blade
straight so you have a straight, sharp blade on the tip.
Somehow, I'd think the kerf jig has to be maintained the
same distance from the stone so you don't put a smilely
across the blade.
Is the blade just being dragged across the stone? If so,
how does one get a straight edge across the blade?
The blade and its holder/jig are moved as one while sitting on the
drillpress table. Since the quill is locked, the setup doesn't even really
demand a perfectly flat or perpendicular table for reference. The distance
from stone to table and in between is just diminished by sheets of paper or
increased by wear on the stone.
I use a tormek which works great. It's very spendy though, especially with
all the jigs. However, their jig is wide enough to do 12" planer blades
too, so I don't have to send to send out anymore.
On Tue, 24 Jul 2007 17:35:24 -0700, "Mike Dembroge"
I looked that up and found the cost too steep. I'm on the cheap
and it appears the best overall solution is to buy new blades;
as its a two blade Sears jointer and costs about $17 for the pair.
I just hit the blades with a hard knot that dinged up the blades.
Any guess the sharpening cost for 6 1/4" blades?
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