Replacing a socket

Jul 25, 2024 Last reply: 1 year ago 37 Replies

I have run into terminal problems (excuse the pun) in trying to replace a double socket. I always thought this was a straightforward job, which I have done many times. This time, the screws will not go into the back box. After many attempts I cannot get the threads to line up. I am wondering if there has been any change to the screws with metric (this should not be a factor as I am reusing the existing screws) or whether the back box could be distorted (one lug is loose and one is tight) or if there is a variability in the distance between the screw holes (I did think the screws were at a bit of an angle when I started taking them out). I'm guessing that a new back box could be big mess and best done by an electrician. Any ideas?


It's not an unusual problem in my experience. It can take quite a while and a lot of bad language to get the screws in the holes. The 'one lug is loose and one lug is tight' is normal on some back boxes, the idea is that you can move the 'loose' one up and down a little to get the socket straight.

Persevere and you'll probably get there. It may be worth trying some diffferent (longer. shorter?) screws, they are all now M3.5 (and have been for many, many years) so you won't have the wrong thread.

Not sure what they were, but there have been at least two threads used, and probably the current one is metric. Not necessarily a whole number of mm. I've put some panel mounting sockets in over the last few years, and I believe they were M3.5, I just used the screws they came with.

I've always kept screws removed from old electrical stuff, and occasionally found a later use for them. I recently looked at screws in a curtain rail, as one had gone missing, and carefully measured the diameter and estimated the thread pitch. I was completely unable to find it among metric, UNC, UNF, BA or BSW charts, so there's still a screw missing.

I now have a set of drills and taps....for such occasions

I invested in one of these:-

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New is M3.5 and I think the old type was 4BA. I'd reuse whatever screws there were on the old socket.

There are also tools for cutting a new thread in the backbox if you crossthread the old one:

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repair kits if the lugs strip completely:
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Theo

Preparing for sale of my parents' house, I went round and did basic socket checks (with a Kewtech kt107) it found a couple of the original

1968 sockets with poor contacts, a few plug/unplug cycles didn't help clean them up.

So I replaced the sockets, found the new screws didn't fit, then the penny dropped they were the old 2BA(?) backboxes, rather than M3.5 so I just re-used the old screws, you can get a re-threading tool if you have lots to do

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I was reusing but I wonder if the previous person used the wrong screws?

run a 3.5mm tap through the holes. That's the only reason I have one. useage not fouund elsewhere.

As do I, but this went into a fairly hefty chunk of stainless steel. I didn't fancy that.

You may now and then find an imperial thread (4BA?) backbox... running a socket tap through them usually fixes em!

Is the new socket faceplate slightly deeper than the one you are replacing? Sometimes it can just be the screw is not long enough to reach far enough into the lug when going through a thicker face plate.

+1 on the longer screws - can save a lot of time where the originals only just reach.

You can also a "Repair tool" as the threads seem easily damaged .....

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.. it is just a tap in a screwdriver handle, but its easy to keep in the tool drawer and worked for me...

Dave

Presumably you've sorted it by now but I was going to suggest have you tried swapping the screws around? It's not too difficult to cross-thread one of the screws which "re-cuts" both the screw thread and the back box to some extent making a non-butchered screw unable to mate up with the "new" thread (either on the screw or the back-box).

No, it's not that. The screw is long enough to allow my small finger in to guide the lug. Not too long though as it stops turning long before it is fully inserted. It feels either that it is going in at the wrong angle (the screws seemed to come out at a slight angle) or that the thread is not engaging correctly. The oddity is that I reused the existing screws.

I tried that too when I realised one of the screws was getting damaged.

Welcome to the world of standards.

If you think that is fun, wait until you have to do any plumbing.

+2 on longer screws but ensure first that the back-box is deep enough to accept a longer screw.

You can easily cut down longer screws with something like

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It's cheap and I would not recommend it for crimping but the hole marked M3.5mm is tapped for a 3.5mm screw on one side. Open up the jaws to align the m3.5 in both sides of the tool, screw in your long screw to the point you want it cut, close the jaws and the screw is cut, unscrew the cut screw which tidies up the threads where it's been cut. It works well on m3.5 but m5 is pushing its capability to almost the destruction limit - but what do you expect for three and half quid, including postage.

Note: at times the cut part of the screw can be ejected from the tool at supersonic speed so just take care with use and use eye PPE.

Video

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Screws too long for the back-box because your new socket is thinner?

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