I have some older Atlantic two wheel rolling suitcases in need of
wheel replacement. There are what appears to be phillips head screws
on the outside of the suitcase that go into in attachment inside,
behind the lining.
I can get to the attachment, and when trying to remove the screws I
fail. I can hold part of the attachment with plyers and the screw
rotates, but won't back out. I have tried pulling on the attachment
while turning the screw, which should help with stripped threads, but
Does anybody have any suggestions.
tomwms at comcast (dot) net
I'd expect that most dedicated luggage stores also repair luggage.
Instead of fighting with this, I'd just talk to any luggage store in
your area and ask about those rivets. If it doesn't seem like a big
deal to them, I'm thinking they have a way of replacing those rivets
easily, and if you buy the new wheels from them, they might just install
them for you free of charge while you wait.
replying to nestork , toolworker wrote:
For the record -
Ignore those Philips head rivets.
Unzip the lining. There is what looks like a flat metal bearing in a channel at
the inside of the wheel axle. Pull it out of the channel with a long nose
pliers. This exposes a real Philips head screw which is the wheel axle.
Unscrew and pull it out and the wheel can be rmoved.
replying to nestork, Charlie17T wrote:
THX. I re-engineered both entire wheel systems. I'd had the wheels replaced
once before and they lasted a year. The design is poor, the shaft is plastic,
and the housing in hollow plastic. So I bought two roller blade wheels drilled
holes to insert a S.S. Bolt and Lock Cap Nut to become the new axle, then poured
epoxy into the space surrounding the new bolt (now axle) and that provided me
with an ultra strong and sturdy encasement for the shaft... this is much better
than the plastic insert shaft. (I also screwed into the wheel support housing
a few S.S. screws to add additional support after the epoxy hardened.
replying to Tom Williams, Charlie17T wrote:
I dont' think you have phillips screws but rather rivits that are either peaned
over, or have a lock mechanism on the inside. You can either drill them out,
or pull off the self locking washer on the inside, and then take the pieces to
Lowes or Home depot to get stainless steel screw, nut and lock washer to put
back together. If you are having to replace the wheel, and have access to the
inside of the wheel well where the wheel shaft goes through the corner wheel
housing, I would strong advise that you purchase a few fluid ounces of high
strength two part epoxy, mix it up, and pour into the wheel well to create a
more solid support housing. This will depend on the type of corner wheel well
you have, and if the shaft is fixed and not rotating. I re=engineered my
wheels with all staineless steel screws, new nylong roller blade wheels with low
friction ball bearing, and used a stainless steel bolt as the new shaft. I had
to design a temporary shaft tube, that could be used to keep the epoxy from
leaking out of the hole where I put the new stainelss steel bolt. One I poured
the epoxy into the wheel well, put the new stainless steel wheel shaft in place
along with the new roller, the result was an extremely strong roller bearing
system, much better than the original design. The original design of the wheel
is not so good... as I'd had wheel failures on both over time... so I
redesigned the system after understanding the weakness in the design. Once
complete the result was an extremley strong set of wheel that will not break
apart since you have the added strong epoxy plastic that replaces the thin
housing material, without the solld inside material for support. If you can
see my email shoot me a note and I'll send pics.
replying to DerbyDad03, Whatever wrote:
No need to be rude. Besides, thanks to Google. threads can live forever. I just
came across this and found Charlie17T's reply very helpful, 2 years after the
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