I don't think differences in socket design have much/anything to do with max wattage ratings. That has alot more to do with the fixture and the wiring going to the socket. We have multiple types of sockets for several reasons, but, at this point, I'm starting to think you're trying to play games as Peeler has long suggested. :(
I don't think you actually know what you're talking about at this point. You're most likely playing word games, and, probably have been doing so for awhile now.
You aren't getting two phases...The urls I've already shared explain that concept to you.
The electricity being provided by the mains in your home and mine is not something to be played with if you don't know what you're doing. It can harm you directly/indirectly (by knocking you off a ladder or into something else) or even kill you, and, it can cause property damage.
Your advice is not only unsound but clearly demonstrates that you don't even have a basic understanding of the electricity that's coming into your home. You shouldn't assume that because you specifically haven't noticed any long term effect from exposure to it, doing things in an unsafe manner that this applies to everyone out there. Not that you care, obviously.
If you want to experience pain from a nasty electrical shock, feel free to play with a live wire that has a considerable load pulling from it as you do. Be sure you provide a good ground as you make contact with said wire and report back your results, if you're able to do so.
For others reading who don't know any better, do NOT follow the suggestion I just provided.
I said you seem to have me confused for someone else, as I was discussing various options for a switched outlet. You mistakenly assumed I was talking about phase 1, vs phase 2 or something. It's single phase in both examples I provided, but the possibility exists for you to use more than one leg as you do it. There's no ego present in what I wrote, but, it's becoming quite obvious that electrical concepts isn't something you have a firm grasp on. You seem to be one of those people who knows just enough to get themselves and/or others in trouble.
The answer depends on the wiring configuration to your outlet, and what kind of breaker specifically we're discussing. It's possible to trip certain types of breakers if the hot/neutral wires imbalance. As, that's what the breaker is checking for, within a certain tolerance. Whatever is coming from the hot that breaker is feeding is expected to be going back on the neutral wire that breaker is tied into. And, if it's not, it'll trip.
I didn't confuse dual phase for two phase. I didn't assume that we generally run two phase in our homes here. Split phase isn't two phase. Although you do have two hots with our setup, you don't have two phases with a one phase single transformer. You have two taps from it's secondary coil. As the url I already provided clearly explains to those able to grasp the underlying concepts.
As far as my intelligence is concerned, I'm not the one who mistakenly thought I wrote something incorrectly about sharing a neutral with two hots. You did. In the states, we have split phase ac power coming into our homes. So, it's quite possible to pull two hots, each on it's own breaker, but technically coming off the same leg. If you go and share the neutral in that manner, you're wiring improperly and it can lead to problems. Especially if the breakers are not your typical standard, nothing special ones, but are arcfault and/or gfci or a combination of the two.
I already explained an easy method of accomplishing that. Leave the neutral alone, break a tab on the hot side of the outlet to seperate the top and bottom ones, pigtail your hot wire. Leave one of the pigtail ends on the screw you want hot all the time, run the other pigtail end to a switch and back to the outlet. Put the wire coming back to the outlet on the screw you didn't already use. You now have a partial hot/partial switched outlet, running from a single circuit.
alan_m posted for all of us...
I always use a grease: nose, bulb, dielectric, whenever I use a screw base bulb. I think I only have one bayonet bulb in the house; for a desk lamp that hardly ever use because it gets so hot...
Scissors can work better. NOT to cut anything, but sideways as pliers that fit better in small spaces.
I see a lot of lamp sockets marked 250W. However, I know someone who used 200W bulbs a lot, and the sockets wouldn't last as long.
I don't remember the limit for mogul base sockets, but I have seen one with a 1000W bulb (more often 3-way 250W/500W/750W).
That describes the transformer. I'm not at the transformer, but a (240V) receptacle looking at the voltages on a scope. There are TWO phases there.
It doesn't matter how it's made (how many transformers, ...), but what it is. Examine a 240V outlet and you find TWO PHASES.
It's a single phase input to the primary with two 180-degree phases of output: one in phase with the input, one leading/lagging by 180 degrees. What matters is what you see on the output, not how you achieved it from the input which is undeniably a single phase.
What are two signals that have a phase difference of 180 degrees if not "antiphase"?
Or do you only count it as being two phases if they are 120 degrees apart as supplied by different mains phases, having been generated by coils in the generator that are the same spacing?
Suppose you had a generator with two, rather than three coils. Would you distinguish between two 180-degrees-apart signals at the secondary, depending on whether they were fed from a single mains input and a centre tap secondary, as opposed to a transformer with a centre tap primary as well, fed from both mains inputs?
Quite - that's the result. I presume you are measuring each of those lines on separate oscilloscope traces wrt some common reference such as neutral.
Stand in a bucket (a metal bucket with a good ground) of salt water freshly stirred with both hands, and touch the wire with your left hand.
It's a Möbius phase :-)
BTW, a Möbius strip is something that can be split and still be one thing.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.
A voltage measurement requires a reference (normally this is ground), so you have a 240V transformer secondary with a grounded center tap. The voltages at the ends are 120V of opposite phase.
Something I hadn't thought of before: piss is about the same color as the dirty yellow light people call "warm white".
Yes.
FWIW, the old "center tap as reference" is a trick test question instructors frequently use in Electricity 101 to see if students have been paying attention. By the time you've successfully completed Electricity 101 you realize how silly the two-phase argument/conclusion is. The fact that the center tap is grounded really confuses some new students.
If you have a dual-trace scope, connect the common lead to L1, connect probe 1 to the center tap and probe 2 to L2. You'll see both traces are in-phase with each other.
Apparently, it IS a matter of point of reference. Maybe you could explain your choice?
Nope. And here's why:
A transformer supplying a three-wire distribution system has a single- phase input (primary) winding. The output (secondary) winding is center-tapped and the center tap connected to a grounded neutral. As shown in Fig. 1. either end to center has half the voltage of end-to- end. Fig. 2 illustrates the phasor diagram of the output voltages for a split-phase transformer. Since the two phasors do not define a unique direction of rotation for a revolving magnetic field, a split single- phase is not a two-phase system.
You have two by splitting the single phase of 240 via one hot and one neutral, but you do NOT have two phases. No revolving magnetic field. No phase A, Phase B. Single phase is all you have.
He just provided you a simple way to verify for yourself that you have ONE phase, not two. It's electricity 101. You do not have two phases because you have two hot legs coming out of that transformer. It's a single split phase setup. ONE phase, in sync with one another. Not offset.
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