You don't seem to have a firm grasp on electrical concepts...
You don't seem to have a firm grasp on electrical concepts...
Short of using an adaptor, you'd have to rewire the plug end to properly fit the outlet/receptacle. Happy now? :)
You need to re-read what I wrote.
Lets say you break the tab and decide to make the top part switched on a different hot circuit. That makes it two circuits going to the outlet, vs one originally. In that case, you can 'share' the neutral (instead of running another one) between the two different hots; since they are different legs.
If you aren't running an additional hot wire from another leg to the top, but, decided to break the tab and run the same 'hot' that's always hot on the bottom to a switch and back over to the top, it's still the same circuit feeding both, so you wouldn't be 'sharing' a neutral anyway. Sharing comes into play in some cases when you're running hots from different legs but don't want/need to pull seperate neutrals. You can't do that with gfci and you can't do that with dedicated circuits. Simply breaking the tab(s) seperating top from bottom doesn't make it another circuit. It's how you decide to wire the now seperated outlets that decides whether or not they are seperate circuits or still the same one. No different than daisy chaining.
the circuits that share the neutral must be on different legs on the service so that the max current on the neutral is equal to that on one circuit breaker when one circuit is being used and will actually zero if power use on both circuits is equal.
Make more sense to you now?
Why should bother doing that? Your pathetic country can't make proper plugs, not my problem.
He doesn?t even have a firm grasp of his dick, its too small for that.
Try double-sided tape wrapped around the end of a broom handle. If possible, hammer while twisting.
If it's been properly wired, yes, that's what we've all been saying.
I have real life experience of shocks. Mains voltage into houses ain't HV and it ain't dangerous.
Doesn't make them create vast amounts of heat to make them weld themselves in.
I prefer as bright as possible.
Sockets can handle any bulb. The shade however may not if it's small and doesn't allow airflow.
No. You originally had neutral and "phase 1" going to the double socket, neither switched. This worked fine. All I'd be doing is putting a switch inline with one of the sockets. Turning off an appliance isn't going to trip a circuit breaker any more than switching it off on the appliance itself, or simply unplugging it.
A potato?!? I use a pair of pliers.
I was using them to dispute your claims that bulbs are no longer glass. Some still are.
That depends on the socket. In the states, we do have max wattage on a socket for a reason.
That's a single phase transformer. It has ONE phase. One secondary coil with two taps plus a center neutral that's tied to ground. It's being fed by a single phase power source. It's not two phase, it's not antiphase, it's dual/split/single phase.
*sigh* 120/240volts ac/dc is dangerous if not handled properly.
The two legs discussed in the above example are not 'phase 1' and 'phase 2'. It's single phase. but, doesn't matter for the purposes of what I wrote. Then you asked why you'd share neutral if coming from different legs and I told you. And what I wrote (you seem to have me confused for someone else) was explaining a switched socket.. Like I said, electrical concepts are not your forte.
That "claim" was not my point if you'd been paying attention. They won't get stuck if they're not hot.
Don't have that here. Maybe we make our sockets properly.
The problem is with your piss poor voltage, you have so much current that the socket overheats too easily. 110V is for batteries.
But you can get two phases from it by centre tapping it.
Funny how 10 shocks haven't killed me, hospitalised me, or even made me feel immense pain.
Where have I stated you are more than one person? Please deflate your ego.
Answer my question, if you're intelligent enough (and I doubt it). How can simply turning off an appliance cause a breaker to trip? All I'm suggesting is you have one single phase, one 110V, nothing more complicated than that, and one of the outlets has a switch on it.
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