=92=E2=80=A6)=C3=A3=C6=92=C5=BD
They're smaller, they must be.
Well they do, I have a USA battery charger right here. I can pull the = plug out by the cord!
The world is vastly overpopulated, we shouldn't be encouraging morons to= survive.
Not a problem here. They pull out quite easily, but they're not loose e= nough to come out if the cord is yanked (especially as the cord comes ou= t the bottom).
-- =
What's meaner than a pit bull with AIDS? The guy that gave it to him.
On Tue, 29 Aug 2017 11:40:24 +0100, alan_m wrot= e:
Odd, I've never had one get jammed apart from the one which caught fire = (a dodgy CFL). The others either stay put, or start flickering and I ha= ve to tighten them again. If the bulb is below the socket, gravity is p= ulling it down, so the hot/cold cycle should move it out of the socket, = not in.
-- =
Riots in Birmingham last month caused over =A31 million worth of improve= ments.
=92=E2=80=A6)=C3=A3=C6=92=C5=BD
What, even the double ones? Please tell me you've invented the double s= ocket. Two of those here =3D 2x13A=3D26A.
Yes they do, unless your fusebox has little 1, 2, 3A fuses for the small= er appliances like battery chargers, lamps, TVs, etc.
-- =
A soldier who survived mustard gas and pepper spray is now a seasoned ve= teran.
The alt.home.repair group contains more than just Americans, you could have been a Canadian for example.
Return is the same potential as ground anyway, so unless you wired it backwards....
It's even easier when you only have live and neutral to trace.
I mean when I'm hoovering and pull it too far, or the flex gets caught or knotted up.
No. Although I did that once then got a shock from the momentum of the motor when I touched the plug prongs.
When you buy a power strip, it has a 13A fuse built into it, this is so you don't overload it. If the fuse lasts longer than the strip, then one of them isn't fit for purpose.
My ring main has a 30A fuse, this means if I overload it, it will blow.
I thought you were describing what the UK had decades ago, with a single wire from a single fuse in the fusebox, running to a single outlet. One wire for every single outlet.
With a ring circuit, we use 15A wire, as each side only takes half the current. Until one gets disconnected, them it overloads. If it was changed to be a single line, we'd have to use proper 30A wire.
The main fuse virtually never goes in the UK, because we have plug fuses.
That still happens even if they aren't on the same line, as they all connect together at the fusebox. For example turning on a large motor like a hoover or a bench saw does make the lights dim slightly (or it did with incandescents), even though they're on completely seperate circuits.
Too much snippage, can't remember why I wrote that there.
I have a 100A incoming wire with a 100A fuse, feeding an 80A meter! Maybe if I drew 100A the meter would die and I'd get free electricity?
How do you need 400 amps? And what's your electricity bill like?
Yes, we call them cookers. Most people have an oven (often two), a grill, and 4 rings/hobs (never heard them called eyes). I think if you turned everything on at once it'd get to 40A, but not for long before thermostats cycled things. Most folk use gas cookers though as gas is 2.5p a kWh and electricity is 12.5p.
It takes the same as a washing machine, about 5kg of clothes. I wouldn't want or need a bigger one. It'd take ages to save up that much washing, I'd need a huge line to hang it on, and I'd need several copies of all my clothes.
Add up the number of devices in your home. All the mains powered things - lights, computers, lamps, TVs etc. How many in total? Probably 50? Do you have that many breakers in your panel? That's a big panel and a lot of wires all over the house.
I think they look neat, especially as the wire hangs down. Yours look more suited to a doll's house.
I plugged a professor's HP laser printer into 240V once to try to repair it. I'd forgotten that although he'd used one of our UK-plugged IEC leads, that he'd had it plugged into a power strip under his desk through a stepdown transformer. Having lived in America for a while, he'd accumulated loads of USA equipment. There was a loud bang and the contents of the bulk capacitors was vaporised and made a lovely smell.
Yes it does, if the current exceeds the fuse's rating. If it doesn't, what's the problem?
If I had an arc. It could have been a loose fitting causing heating in a resistance on the fuse carrier or the plug prong.
I don't care if kids do so. Chances are it'll hurt or give them a fright and they won't do it again. If they die, well that's one less stupid gene to pass on to the next generation.
When I bought this house, I found one of those (switched outlet) in a bedroom. It was connected to control the outside receptacle on the other side of the wall, for holiday lights.
Never got that with mine and mine are mostly 150W PAR38s which get quite hot.
Sure, but I have never needed to do that.
The bigger problem is that if you arent careful when wiring the socket in, you can end up with the active on the outer metal which is often touchable when changing a bulb and with a bulb failure, not everyone turns the light off before changing the bulb because it isnt obvious that its still turned on to the technoklutzes.
Nope, works fine with electric stoves.
We'll see...
Hardly ever happens.
Nope, normal flex handles 10A without setting fire to anything.
Yes.
And only britain has fused plugs, everywhere else that doesn't doesn't see lots more fires due to table lamps taking 10A and not tripping the fuse.
Why are you touching the metal part of the socket when changing bulbs?
Not never. I've seen it happen, except no carpet. That was in a floor lamp with a 1000W bulb. The only non-lamp damage it did was when the bulb fell in my lap.
Sam E wrote
Some of the bulb holders make it easy to do that accidentally, particularly when the bulb hasn't been screwed in yet an the metal outer of the part that screws in contacts the outer of the socket.
Cant happen with a bayonet socket.
Mark Lloyd wrote
I said hardly ever for a reason.
None of our flexes will set fire to a carpet with 10A going thru them.
Not exactly a common config.
That certainly explains why you are now dickless.
That doesn't seem to make any sense. You're saying if you have two outlets on the same "phase", you need seperate neutrals? But on different phases they can share? For what purpose?
So much easier when every outlet has a switch. Never need to unplug stuff.
Which to me means the same thing. A car with a dual something has two of them.
Well they are 180 degrees out aren't they? Three phase is 120 degrees out.
That doesn't make sense. Why would you be putting a physical load on the alternator 90 degrees apart, with a big gap of 270 degrees after that? I thought one of the main points of phases was the alternator was evenly mechanically loaded, so you put the phases evenly round the circle.
Those rules are insanely stupid and I simply ignore them. You're not supposed to have outlets in the bathroom, yet you can have them (loads of them) in the kitchen. Both rooms have water!
As for GFCI, that's for pansies afraid of a little jolt.
For some reason in the UK, only a small number of commercial establishments and schools etc have autolights, where they think people will forget to turn them off. I installed them myself in my house, for convenience, and so my pets can turn the lights on when I'm out or asleep. I simply bought a load of motion detectors that replace the normal lightswitches on the wall. No need to run new wires. Well there was, some needed a neutral and some switches didn't have one, but I just used the ground (which is the same voltage as neutral). If I had those nancy boy circuit breakers, they'd trip all the time :-)
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