Someone years ago used to sell snake venom. I have suggested to sell Urishol to the military, they can spray it on enemy encampments.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Is there a market for that product?
Danny,
I hope you are using Ivy Block or something similar. .
Dave M.
Understood. They clear the roads out here all the time with a five foot wide cutter than arcs high and can get behind the guardrails (banging them up in the process).
That WOULD work for the part that I just cleared, but not for the part deep down in the ravine 100 feet below (which is inaccessible to tractors AFAIK).
Probably not in my budget though. :(
I don't mind battling poisonous plants any more than I mind winding torsion springs, but, I do try to know thine enemy thoroughly, and one problem I have in spades is decontamination of something invisible, yet toxic.
To that end, I was just made aware of the most fantastic reliable reference on the net for battling toxic Pacific Poison Oak in the field!
United States Patent 4,594,239, to Pluim, Jr., on June 10, 1986 Titled: Method for neutralizing offensive chemicals
That effect is actually fairly easy to interfere with. Pretty much any change to the urushiol molecule would probably prevent dermatitis.
Chlorine bleach is a strong oxidizing agent, and should easily do the trick. Getting it into the oil would be aided by adding alcohol or acetone as a wetting agent, but a strong surfactant should also work.
The patent prefers a solution of acetone + butyl acetate + trichloroisocyanuric acid for neutralizing urushiol on skin, clothes, and equipment; but if I preferentially select just the common household chemicals discussed, the patent seems says that 2% to 6% common bleach alone or combined with 5% to 20% rubbing alcohol (or acetone) as a wetting agent will neutralize urushiol in about 1 minute.
The patent even explains how adding certain ferrous compounds will actually make the toxic urushiol glow green, while the decontaminated urushiol will not.
Armed with this information, I can create a decontamination mix out of the prescribed pool chemicals and rubbing alcohol, which I can use to wash my face, hands, neck, ears, and wrists every 15 minutes, while removing the poison oak in the field!
I'm confused.
I could not figure out HOW to get the pressure washer to suck a fluid out of an external tank (i.e., a soap tank).
Clearly my Honda pressure washer has a mechanism for sucking up the fluid as shown in the picture - but I've never done it.
Q: What do I have to do to a pressure washer to make it suck from the soap tank? Is there a valve or setting I have to twist or turn?
If there is, let me know 'cuz I have enough urushiol sap to contaminate everyone on earth very many times over!
You don't need to buy, you can rent. But I were you I'd contract with a local land clearing company... since it appears that you really need to get the job done it pays to have the pros do it... they have the equipment and the know how. Often attempting such jobs oneself the cheap turns out expensive. You might be pleasantly surprised to find out having the pros do it doesn't cost as much as you may think. Get some estimates, that's also a great way to learn some good ways to approach your problem from folks who actually know. I know that it can be very tough on certain people's egos but there are some jobs one shouldn't do themselves, from what I can see I think this is such a job. Were it my property I'd have the company that removes trees for me do that job, they'd arrive with a small crew (maybe four men), in no time all that heavy brush would go into their heavy shredder, it would get trucked to a dump site. Then they'd come in and till and power rake your entire field. In practically no time all your problems would be over and you'd have nice fresh land to do with as you will. I don't remember seeing where you mention how much land is involved (acres?), I'm guestimating from your pictures that job will cost you about $1,000, well worth it. Jobs like yours are almost all labor, there are no materials involved like when putting in a gravel roadway... only material for your job is like $100 diesel. Either of these companys can do your job, I've used both several times each, both are very reliable and honest. If all you want is to remove the brush contact LB, if you want to remove the brush and totally improve the topography contact Maggio:
My new pressure washer has two built-in tanks, it will suck at low or high pressure settings, and can set the suck rate. Love it:
Wow. That looks like a mean pruner! This is the FIRST suggestion which is actually affordable (i.e., $80). I do have a 20 inch hedge clipper - but it gets hung up on the vines all the time, so I didn't even mention it. But THIS pruner, wow, it sure looks like it might do the job if I can get an 18-inch long jaw.
I've researched the chemicals in those expensive creams in great detail. What I use is the cheaper base alternative shown in this photograph: Bentonite clay (IvyBlock), Dawn Dish Detergent + alchohol (Technu/Zanfel)
The problem with IvyBlock (or my driller's clay) is that you have to put it on ahead of time; and the problem with Technu (or dish detergent + alcohol) is that it mostly works in the first 15 minutes.
But, I just found this patent which will give me a great new solution!
- United States Patent 4,594,239, June 10, 1986,
- Method for neutralizing offensive chemicals
-
The beauty of this (new to me) approach is that I can afford to slather this new decontamination solution on my face, hands, wrists, ears, and neck every fifteen minutes while working in the ravines.
The amazing thing is that I had never heard of this decontamination solution until just yesterday! I found it out on rec.photo.digital when I asked how to decontaminate my expensive Nikon SLR which is clearly covered in urushiol sap by now!
What is butyl acetate and where would you get it?
I thought you were going to spray it on the plants.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
United States Patent 4,594,239, to Pluim, Jr., on June 10, 1986 Titled: Method for neutralizing offensive chemicals
That effect is actually fairly easy to interfere with. Pretty much any change to the urushiol molecule would probably prevent dermatitis.
Chlorine bleach is a strong oxidizing agent, and should easily do the trick. Getting it into the oil would be aided by adding alcohol or acetone as a wetting agent, but a strong surfactant should also work.
The patent prefers a solution of acetone + butyl acetate + trichloroisocyanuric acid for neutralizing urushiol on skin, clothes, and equipment; but if I preferentially select just the common household chemicals discussed, the patent seems says that 2% to 6% common bleach alone or combined with 5% to 20% rubbing alcohol (or acetone) as a wetting agent will neutralize urushiol in about 1 minute.
The patent even explains how adding certain ferrous compounds will actually make the toxic urushiol glow green, while the decontaminated urushiol will not.
Armed with this information, I can create a decontamination mix out of the prescribed pool chemicals and rubbing alcohol, which I can use to wash my face, hands, neck, ears, and wrists every 15 minutes, while removing the poison oak in the field!
Look around. Someone in the area will have one. Hire him.
A excavator can work a steep slope with a second rig on top with a winch. A tow truck can be used.
you can to iocaine powder (see Princess Bride).
Fictional stuff aside, I and others have noted becoming less sensitve to poison oak over time and have attributed it to drinking the milk of goats that eat the stuff. I am not aware of any experiments to test that hypothesis, but the immune effect is real, whatever its cause.
Or as my four-year-old sister said, "There's no such thing of that, 'cause I never heard of it!"
They said no one is immune to smallpox--your lack of scar PROVES you were never vaccinated. So they did it again.
Two years later, same argument, same result.
My sensitivity to poison oak DEcreased from 1967 to 1972. Don't know why, but I've posted my hypothesis already.
TRUE--but many accidental exposures had appeared to confirm the goat's milk hypothesis. So, being young and foolish, I assumed I was immune and abandoned precautions. And got away with it.
When it was my son's turn to be young and foolish, he formed the hypothesis that he could immunize himself by limited contact. If you know where to look, you can still make out the scars.
Ah, I would question that as well. Before my resistance developed, the slightest contact had severe effects.
By the way, some of that resistance has gone away over time.
Well, remember your posts about changing the chemical structure. Hydrochloric acid and whatever else is in goats' stomachs would probably do that.
And they don't chew much at first. Like cows, they pick and swallow rapidly, then they relax somewhere, cough it back up and chew it thoroughly.
I suspect that very well could be the case. Allergies are clearly complex things, and they clearly have competing actions.
For example, we all know that to be exposed to allergens as a child when our immune systems are developing is a way for the body to learn to ignore harmless things such as almost invisible pollen or mold or dust.
Yet, there's the conflicting statement in this UC Davis site:
That sentence makes sense based on how cell mediated immune responses work in the body.
Yet, on the contrary side, as you noted, you can be exposed to the allergen via other methods (in your case, via goat's milk).
For example, this site says some people were sensitized to urushiol via mangoes:
So, my only point is that the immune system is so complex, and so variant by individual and age, that I don't doubt that goat's milk might help confer greater immunity to the urushiol.
As for me, if the rash on my neck, ears, cheek, wrists and ankle is of any evidence, I'm clearly not immune. Of course, this site says that a single drop the size of a pinhead can infect 500 people:
Botanically, a pristine plant has cell walls, and these cell walls keep the urushiol-laced sap from being on the outside of the roots, vines, stems, leaves, flowers, and berries of Toxicodendron diversilobum.
However, in nature, a pristine plant would be hard to find, so, I don't doubt one bit that there may be oils on the OUTSIDE of the plant!
For a graphic example, look at this picture of me holding a Pacific Poison Oak plant that I just cut with a chain saw.
after thinking about this for awhile.......
the plants didnt get so large overnite. do you REALLY need access to that land. this is one case where it might be better to just avoid the area and ignore it.
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