On Wed, 15 May 2013 21:40:37 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:
I've never wired using conduit before, so I can use all the suggestions
I can get; however, I must have missed alternative mounting ideas.
How would you suggest the junction box be mounted?
Should I raise it up on a block of wood?
BTW, I added silicone to waterproof the bottom of the box:
And I put di-electric grease on all the connections:
And, I added o-rings to every conduit connection:
Two questions I have regarding the setup below:
Q1: Would you drill into the concrete to firmly attach the box?
Q2: Should I buy male spade connectors so as to connect spade to spade?
(instead of the waterproof wire nuts?)
Some of the folks that have had discussion or issues with
inspectors can probably give you a better answer regarding
fastening it. It definitiely needs to be fastened and putting
screws into the concrete would do that. However to
avoid drilling, I wonder if construction adhesive would satisfy
code? Not sure. I would be comfortable doing it for
that application from a safety standpoint, but not sure what
an inspector would say.
I think DerbyDad brought up the issue of
raising it up higher. I don't believe that's required by code.
If there is no pooling of water around the box likely, ie it
runs off, then I wouldn't worry about it. If water can pool
there, then putting something to raise it up an inch or so
isnt' a bad idea. But I think most pool installers would just
mount it to the deck.
I would not use spade terminals, more work and not typically
how it would be done. And you're cutting the wires too short.
I forget the exact code reqt, but think it's like 6" beyond the
box. Don't go nuts, nobody is going to come measure them.
But just looking at it, they appear short.
And not to get you into a rat hole, but just so you know
and learn, there is a min box size allowed for a given
number of wires of a given size. I would think that box
is probably around the limit, you have 12 wires going
into it. They don't want you to shove 10 lbs of stuff into
a 5 lb bag,
Forgot to add, in the pic on the conduit fitting on the
lower left, there is a locknut showing on the outside
of the box. That locknut is to secure the fitting inside
a box that has no threads. It should not be on the
outside, where there should be a o-ring seal.
On Thu, 16 May 2013 06:24:03 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I removed all the wires and bought longer wires replaced the conduit:
I then made sure there was at least 6 inches inside the conduit box.
I also cut off and put fresh spade terminals on all the wires:
And, I greased all connections with di-electric grease:
I stripped the wires about a half inch for the wire nuts:
Before greasing and installing the wire nuts:
Note: I only realized the original wire was smaller than 10 AWG when I
started stripping it to put the new spade connectors on, and when I
twisted the wire nuts on. I suspect the old wire was 12 AWG or maybe even
14 AWG all along. My mistake.
I think I told you early on that 12 was more than sufficient.
That motor only pulls about 7 amps, so even 14 would be OK.
I don't know how you got onto 10, but it's better to be too large,
than too small. Only disadvantage is it;s harder to work with.
On Fri, 17 May 2013 05:03:25 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
It's amazing how much collective knowledge there is on a.h.r!
I had physically eyeballed it. And I was wrong.
Also, I had measured the conduit. I was wrong there too.
I learned a lot in this, my first 220v wiring job ever!
If you are going to do this again, go to Home Depot and look over an
assortment of the parts to get a better idea of what is available and
what stuff looks like. If your store is like mine, you won't be
disturbed by a pesky sales associate for an hour or so.
The main breaker panel is about four feet above the pool equipment.
The 40,000 gallons, if it were to overflow into the pool equipment would
surely run down the hill, as it's all very steep stuff out here in the
mountains. It would never even make it to the neighbor's yard.
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