Only if it's going into a box with threaded holes or the pump motor that you have, which is threaded too. If it goes into a box with blanks, then you use the provided nut to secure it on the inside. To remove, you take the nut off and the connector comes out. You're right, they don't work well for threaded connections.
Not to get critical, but I can't help but wonder at his choice of locations for elbows. Like why they are used at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit could have gone straight in. An elbow on the motor on the right and an elbow where the left motor conduit enters the box would seem more logical.
I've decided to elevate it an inch or two up on concrete. I'll snap a photo when done to show it to you.
Actually, it would drain about 40,000 gallons, because the pool equipment is 8 feet below the waterline, and the pool is only about 9 feet deep.
But I *wanted* the junction box!
For two reasons: a) Ease of disconnection b) Freedom to swap in emergencies
With the four new unions and the junction box, I now can move the pumps and motors about if/when I need to. There are other similar pumps on the property (e.g., for the koi pond that is currently a koi swamp due to the pump being out of commission - but that's another story).
I've been pining for that junction box ever since I first started taking the motors off to fix them.
I did exactly that at Home Depot today, and the guy came up with these nice new two-piece conduit connectors. I also bought extra long lengths of the 10 AWG wire, as recommended, to replace that which I put in yesterday:
Note: I did try to find insulated male & female spade connectors; but they didn't have any for 220 volts and 10 AWG stranded wire; so I'll be using the waterproof wire nuts with di-electric grease instead, on a waterproofed junction box on an extra two inches of concrete to keep it high (although the concrete pad itself is two inches off the ground).
In hindsight, I should have shopped around more for a non-threaded junction box, but no hardware store I went to had any.
I did specifically plan the location of the cleaner pump (the one at 45°) so that not only did the pipes not run over the top of the basket, but that I could get my (rather large) body all around it to service the heater and the other pumps.
So, while the octopus has grown, it now has the advantage of: a) Must easier access to the baskets and pump b) Easy disconnection of the pump and wiring c) Re-use of one pump for another with only minor effort
That was a compromise.
Having lived the horrors of threaded elbows, I had intended on replacing all the elbows with straight-through connections instead.
However, I then realized I strongly disliked *all* the straight-through connections also (none seem particularly water tight) ... so I decided to keep the original elbows, which, at least, were clearly water tight.
In hindsight, were I to rip it all up and start again: a) I'd have bought a non-threaded junction box! b) I would have use straight-through connections at the junction box c) And, at the motor, I would have drilled out the threads and used a non- threaded elbow so that it could easily be removed simply by removing the nut.
choice of locations for elbows. Like why they are used at the top of the pic, where it looks like the conduit could have gone straight in. An elbow on the motor on the right and an elbow where the left motor conduit enters the box would seem more logical.
If the box is waterproof why the need for waterproof wire nuts? If the box was mounted on a post.... it would never get water inside If the box didn't exist...you wouldn't need to mount it or use wire nuts.
Are you learning....your way of doing things makes more work for you & achieves subpar results.
Done.
I raised it up with a concrete stepping stone; and the concrete pad was already raised by an inch already (off the ground level):
Thanks for that advice; all the locknuts were removed since all the conduit fittings are screwed into either the junction box or the motors:
I removed all the wires and bought longer wires replaced the conduit:
I then made sure there was at least 6 inches inside the conduit box.
I also cut off and put fresh spade terminals on all the wires:
And, I greased all connections with di-electric grease:
I stripped the wires about a half inch for the wire nuts:
Before greasing and installing the wire nuts:
Note: I only realized the original wire was smaller than 10 AWG when I started stripping it to put the new spade connectors on, and when I twisted the wire nuts on. I suspect the old wire was 12 AWG or maybe even
14 AWG all along. My mistake.
I removed the elbows off the old conduit, and only then did I realize what the yellow and white parts actually were:
Thanks for the advice (Oren & Bob said the same thing).
I agreed with that assessment, so I ripped out all the conduit and wire I had put in, bought new wire, and cut new conduit.
Picked up some new two-piece straight-through connectors, and rewired it to what you were so kindly suggesting.
With all the cutting of the conduit, I found this irrigation pipe cutter works well, and is just the right size:
I think I told you early on that 12 was more than sufficient. That motor only pulls about 7 amps, so even 14 would be OK. I don't know how you got onto 10, but it's better to be too large, than too small. Only disadvantage is it;s harder to work with.
I know you really, really wanted that box. But after looking at the final pictures that show a good view of the wiring on the ends of the motors, I have to agree with Oren. With what I see there, all that you need to do to remove a motor is:
Remove the wires from the terminals Unscew the nut that is on the conduit outside the box Pull off the conduit. Work the wires out with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Unless I'm missing something, I don't see why that can't be done in just a few minutes. And you should rarely have to do even that, because those pumps last a long time.
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