Bam! Garage door over-the-door torsion spring snapped! How to replace?

My wife heard a big snap, and when I looked, I see what happened:

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I counted 111 coils of what seems to be 1/4 inch steel, with a set length of 28.5 inches (but a broken untensioned total spring length of 26.75 inches).

Any suggestions for how to locate & install a new spring will be welcome.

I'm sure most will say "just pay someone" (i.e, too dangerous, too difficult, too expensive, etc.); but that's not what this group is about.

I'll research what I can and report back but if you've actually done it (I realize most people have NOT) ... it would be useful to get your advice.

Note: I realize a torsion garage door spring DIY endeavor is like DIY car alignment or like putting in automotive struts where most of the people say it's just not worth it but almost all of those who say it's not worth it actually have never even thought about what it really takes - nor have they tried - and neither have they actually done it. So, their advice, while well meant, is next to useless unless they've actually done it.

What I'm looking for is advice from someone who actually replaced their own garage door torsion spring.

As I said, I'll do some research also - but I figured I'd try to connect with someone who has done this already (I already know what all the rest will say).

Reply to
Danny D.
Loading thread data ...

Searching alt.home.repair, I find these of import:

2/14/04 by DIY Klutz, 117 posts Why would a garage door torsion spring break & is two better than one? 7/30/97 by David Buxton, 7 posts garage door spring broken, is that DIY? 6/19/97 by md, 7 posts Broken Garage Door Spring 7/13/99, by Neil W., 9 posts Help Replace Garage Door Spring 9/6/99, by Fred and Jan Berman, 4 posts Cost to replace garage door spring

I'll report back what I find when I read these.

Reply to
Danny D.

I have done it twice and lived.

Hardest part these days is finding replacements. You used to be able to buy at any HW store or even the Borg, but no longer, at least around here. (N. Ohio) And the garage repair places I called wouldn't sell to a non-pro. I ended up ordering online, and they took a week to get. Wasn't a show stopper for me but would be for many.

You should replace both. Get new springs that are the same length, diameter, and wire gauge. Count how many turns it takes to unwind the unbroken spring. Wind the new ones up a few turns less and check balance, adjust if needed. Wind them both the same.

Get proper winding bars, wear full face protection, and don't place yourself where you will be injured if something slips and a bar gets thrown. Always have one bar fully engaged and go slow. Make sure the locking bolts on the non-winding side are really tight.

Check the wire ropes and pulleys, if they need replacing, now's the time to do it. Make sure to check the end of the wire ropes that slip over the pin at the bottom of the door. If it's going to rust through, that's usually where it will happen.

Coat the new springs with oil every year or two to keep them from rusting.

Good luck and be careful.

Paul F.

Reply to
Paul Franklin

Do you have only 1 big spring, or do you have a pair, and only 1 of the two has broken, your description was not clear.

First, find the manufacturer of the door and go to their web site to see what information you can get.

Then tell us approximately where you live and maybe someone on the group knows of a spring source near to where you live.

You will need sturdy bars to wind the new spring up to the right tension. Get ones that fit the holes in the winder easily, but not so small that they aren't strong enuf.

Glad to see you want to try it yourself, just be careful, and get the car way away from the garage. If something goes wrong, the winding bars can get thrown at least 100 feet.

Reply to
hrhofmann

These threads are 90% old wives tales and only 10% real data, so here's the real data I found in the aforementioned threads.

Critical dimensions:

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Spring length = 28.5 inches

- Wire diameter = 0.250 inch

- Helix direction = right hand spring

- Spring ID = 2.0 inches

- Spring OD = 2 1/2 inches

- Torsion rod diameter = 1 inch OD

- Cable drum OK = 4"

Here is a DIY recommended in one of the alt.home.repair posts:

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How I Replaced Deadly Garage Door Torsion Springs And lived to tell the tale. snipped-for-privacy@truetex.com < Richard J. Kinc >

Torsion spring formulas:

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Larger wire diameter lasts longer (aim is 10K cycles).
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Door & Access Systems Manufacturers Association DASMA color code chart:
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Recommended springs:
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Torsion springs:
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(800)829-6002
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How to stretch the life of a torsion spring:
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How to measure a torsion spring:
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Special attention for single torsion spring systems:
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Reply to
Danny D.

Only 1 spring.

Reply to
Danny D.

Danny D.

Looks like you've done the research. The write-up at truetex.com is the sam= e one I used and it covers the process well.

I took the broken spring to a local garage door shop and they sold me a cou= ple over the counter. If you have a Menards in your area they now carry a g= ood selection of springs. You can get the right spring by taking measuremen= ts, bringing the spring in to compare or just weigh the door.

They also have a new system that allows you to adjust the tension with a dr= ill. It's expensive to convert a door, but it takes much of the worry out o= f the process.

It's not rocket science, but it is dangerous. Make sure you have the right = tools and a sturdy step ladder. Think ahead, go slow, and keep your body pa= rts away from the plane of the rods. Inspect all the other parts and replac= e as needed so you only have to do it once.

In my case I had a 16-foot redwood door that weighed in at several hundred = pounds. I had to dismantle the whole door just to get one of my cars out of= the garage to go get the new springs. My neighbor once broke a spring and = a guy was there an hour later to fix it.

I'm adding a new garage on to my house this month and will be reusing my cu= rrent door. Regulations prohibit anyone other than the owner from reinstall= ing an old door so I'll be doing it again soon. I'm retired so my time is c= heap.

Good luck and be careful.

dss

Reply to
dss

If you know so little about replacing a set of garage door springs and the dangers thereof that you're seeking advice in a newsgroup, you and your family would definitely be better served by hiring a guy who knows what he's doing.

However, if you're still of a mind to try it yourself, first make sure you have very good health insurance that includes coverage for prostheses and extended rehab. You'll also want to have a comprehensive long term disability policy that covers loss of limb/eye-- and maybe brain damage;-)

And finally, if you really screw the pooch while up on your rickety ladder--have enough life insurance so that good lookin' widow of yours-- and the kids-- can survive long enough until she finds some other dude to haul her ashes and take care of your family...

Reply to
Douglas C. Neidermeyer

In my previous house I had 2 springs on a very heavy 2 car door. In the

36 years there, I can't even count the number of times the springs broke. The 1st 3 or 4 times, I got someone to replace them. However, for the majority of breaks, I did the replacement. I always was able to get the springs from, of all places, Ace. The last one broke about 5 or 6 years ago and I had no problem, at that time, getting the spring at one of the Ace stores. They are usually color coded. One of the ends always had a spray splotch of a colored paint. I remember mine was white. The other thing you need to know is CW or CCW winding. The 1s time I did it it took 3 or 4 hours as I was discovering how to do it safely. However, I think the last one took only about an hour ... it took more time to find the spring. I would check Ace and if they don't have them on the shelf, maybe they could order it.
Reply to
Art Todesco

Yeah, I'd call a door guy out and maybe a couple more if I didn't like the prices. I've adjusted them, and it's all common sense, but finding the right replacement spring could be a hassle. Then there's your time doing it right and safe. Just as one data point, I had my old wood door (16' x 7', 4 section) replaced with a metal one a few months ago. $900.

2 remotes, keypad and push button. 2 guys, maybe an hour and a half, old door hauled away. Pow, pow, pow. New door is smooth as silk.
Reply to
Vic Smith

You can get new springs at your local Overhead Door branch or other commercial door place. You will not find then at the big box stores due to the safety concerns.

As for replacing them, it's a pain changing them out since you have to release the tension on the remaining spring, slide the shaft to one side so you can get the old springs off and the new on, making sure you put the correct one on each side since they are not the same, get the shaft centered up again and then tension each side the proper amount evenly. You'll need two 1/2" dia steel bars around 2'-3' long for the untensioning and tensioning.

The tensioning and untensioning are not fun procedures and would be best done with two people if possible. Ensure you are positioned to the side out of the path of the bars in case you loose your grip, something slips, etc. and the bar comes whizzing past. You need to count the number of turns or 1/4 turns you put on each spring to keep them even.

If you count the turns on the intact spring as you untension it, that will give you a target tension to aim for when tensioning the new ones. Test the door manually to determine if it is properly balanced at that point. If the door place will replace the springs for ~$100 in labor it's probably worth it to avoid the hassle. When I replaced the springs on my garage door I had to do it over a couple days since the tensioning was doing a number on my carpal tunnel.

Reply to
Pete C.

I don't think there's a better "how to" on the topic than this one by Richard Kinch.

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Reply to
Smitty Two

Hi, There are quite a few Youtube demo as well. After careful prep. I did it in one week end evening replacing springs and new set of cables. Now I spray Liquid wrench from now and then onto springs to extend the life of them.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

TGhe OP siad there was only one spring, not a pair.

Reply to
hrhofmann

We have to differentiate between the torsion springs and the extension springs.

You can get the springs that line up along the line of travel of the door (parallel to the car) at hardware stores - but I seriously doubt you can get the over-the-doorway torsion springs (which are perpendicular to the line of travel of the door) at ACE.

I'm so sure of that, I won't even look at ACE - but that's only because I've read all that I could find on this topic.

Reply to
Danny D.

Hmmm... In all my googling, I've never heard of 'adjusting' torsion springs (the ones perpendicular to the travel of the door and directly overhead as you drive into the doorway).

Are you 'sure' you adjusted a torsion spring?

Reply to
Danny D.

Thanks. I've been reading up on this and the truetex writeup seems to be the best out there.

As the author said, it's no more dangerous than any other dangerous home repair job - so I will make sure I know ALL the steps first.

It's interesting that the 20K duty cycle springs aren't appreciably more expensive than the 10K so ... it seems ... I'll get lousy parts if I have a professional do it (as they'll just use what's on their truck).

That's the best argument of all for doing it yourself (better quality results)!

Reply to
Danny D.

This was just the kind of useless banter that most of the other threads I've read contained tons of.

It helps not to write well-intentioned warnings from people who have never done the job themselves (and who would never consider doing it).

For example, the first two times I had struts replaced on my vehicles, I heeded the warnings - and ended up with substandard struts done by professionals - at twice the cost - all in the name of 'safety'.

Then, when I did it myself (borrowing TWO SETS of the tools from two different Autozones because of all the dire tool-bending stories) ... I was shocked at how simple, quick, and easy it was to compress the springs.

The moral of 'that' story is that I'd certainly recommend anyone who felt competent to replace struts as the springs, when compressed ARE DANGEROUS ... but the danger can be managed.

The result is BETTER STRUTS at half the cost!

I'm looking for the same thing on this garage door - hence I'm reading up on the procedure - and - I fully understood before I asked that I'd end up having to wade through 90% of the well-meaning safety advice coming from people who never would even contemplate doing it - and who therefore are of a wholly different mindset.

Reply to
Danny D.

There is no remaining spring. There is only one spring.

Reply to
Danny D.

This is good advice ... but ... I fear ... the price out here, in Silicon Valley, may be appreciably higher than that. I'm guessing around $200 but I need to make some calls on Monday (it's Sunday right now).

The problem with the pros is they'll put on 'whatever is on the truck' which isn't what I want. I know that from personal experience also. The high-school graduate who replaces my spring doesn't care WHAT he puts on as his primary concern is to get the spring off the truck and then on to the next job.

From the readings on Truetex, I can buy a higher-than-original quality spring (i.e., a thicker gauge) for about $30 - so that's a prime reason for doing it myself - as 10,000 cycles is far too little for the use that I give out of my garage door (I'd like 30,000 cycles ... but I'll settle for 20,000 cycles).

I realized, belatedly, I need to mic the spring, as I only eyeballed it with a rule at 1/4 inch. It matters greatly what it is (yellow paint isn't standard for 1/4 inch so that's another indication I'm off on the gauge).

Reply to
Danny D.

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