One question.
Since the typical use would be to add detergent to the hose water that is sprayed out, can we suck ONLY from the container?
Or do we still need to hook the garden hose to the sprayer?
(The reason I ask is that the area it's needed is hundreds of feet from the nearest garden hose spigot.)
Mine sucks out of the tank(s) when the "soap" nozzle is inserted in the wand. With the other nozzles the pressure is too high to suck the soap out of the tanks.
Still need the hose. AIUI, the pressure washer uses a venturi too pull the soap out of the container. Without water the pump would probably overheat, too. The water is a coolant as well as a lubricant.
Hundreds of feet of hose? ;-)
Ah. Thanks (and to others who said this too).
I 'could' hook up a few hoses (I bought a few of the gray Costco 3/4" "industrial" 100-foot hoses a couple of years ago.
They're actually crummy hoses (they kink too much compared to rubber), but they're long. I'd only need four of them but in reality, I was looking for a more portable solution once I'm down there, in the ravine, surrounded by the poison oak.
I did try that and failed - which is why I asked if I have to turn a valve or something first.
But I didn't "prime" it, which is what it may need.
I'd consult the manual I had it.
I can, of course, google for it (or something similar), and, I can ask Cosco - I think that's where I bought it - for the company name, but, I didn't try all that hard simply because I 'suspected' I need to drag four hundred feet of garden hose - which - isn't really all that useful.
Plus, I won't be spraying a huge swath, 20 feet to 50 feet deep without the leaves berrys being on the vine, as I'd be wasting my time.
In addition, I DO plan on spraying what I cut as I learned from this thread that I MUST spray within five minutes (before the sap reverses), but, for that, since it was just cut, I should have access with the hand sprayer.
So, there is no rush on figuring out HOW the sprayer works.
On a different note ... I put the camera strap in the bleach wash:
That strap came out better than new.
In addition, the camera is now fully swabbed down with the 1:1:1 mixture of oxidizer + wetting agent + surfactant ... so let's hope the wife & kids don't come down with the itchies in the next week!
Hi Stormin Mormon,
I like that sentiment. Duplicate others' success and not failures!
That's apropos because many people just dive in, and that duplicates the failures, and few report back the successes so others can follow.
Yeah. One thing I learned by doing is that Nikon camera straps are STRONG!
Look at this picture:
I had fullyy expected the camera strap to turn white (or brown), and for the faux leather to peel off - but it all looks like it's brand new!
Who would have thought that the Nikon camera strap was that hardy!
Methinks you will need the garden hose hooked up also. Even the cheap pressure washers use 1.8 gallons per minute so you would need a 55 gallon drum to give you any spray time at all and that could get quite expensive depending on herbicide used.
I had not realized this.
Thank you for the additional information!
At this point, we've confirmed that the pressure washer ONLY works from the hose in the practical sense, so I'd simply need a very long hose.
I'd not apply defolient with a pressure washer, that would be very wasteful, most would end up on the ground... apply with a hand operated squirt bottle to the cut stems only... I have a battery operated spray bottle (two AA cells) that works very well, adjusts from a spray to a stream. Most folks apply far more defoliant than necessary... in your case I would cut and spray immediately as I go. I actually bought this for spraying Japanese beetles with Sevin, did the job... I got mine from Lowe's.
This is very useful information, which, coupled with the suggestion by others to spray in the first five minutes after cutting, is a good one:two punch.
I had never realized there are battery-operated sprayers.
Mine is the classic hand pump operated as shown in this picture:
So, oddly, from a practical standpoint, hand spraying can't work without cutting - yet - it works great if done within 5 minutes of cutting.
One 'problem' I just found out about with cutting though is that the urushiol in the roots and vines is ten to 100 times as potent as that in the leaves, so, cutting is inherently more dangerous overall.
However, the other side of this 'problem', is that spraying leaves the dead vines where they are, which is still a potent hazard for 5 years (wet environment) to ten years (dry environment) as the soil bacteria and elements break down the catechols in the sap.
It's very interesting to learn about thine enemy! :)
the bottle I showed, but I think for what you're doing the small bottle is more than adequate.
This is the plan!
Notice in this picture how the sap is ONLY on the outside ring! (Just as you said.)
This is good advice for most people - but - for me - it won't work as well ONLY because the poison oak is so thick that I can't get roundup (glyphosate) to the plant except at the edges - but the plant is 40 to 50 feet deep in places.
So far, I'm planing on reading all the patents below, for information:
4,002,737 Prevention and/or treatment of poison ivy dermatitis 4,032,662 Method for the treatment of contact allergic dermatitis 4,199,575 Method of treating dermatitis venenata 4,259,318 Poison ivy relief composition 4,472,507 Method for detecting exposure to poison ivy and the like 4,499,086 Medication for treatment of poison oak irritation and inflammation 4,594,239 Method for neutralizing offensive chemicals 4,663,151 Aluminum chlorhydrate as a prophylatic treatment for poison oak, poison ivy and poison sumac dermatitis 4,692,462 Compositions and method of controlling transdermal penetration of topical and systemic agents 4,803,047 Method for neutralizing offensive chemicals 4,834,901 Skunk odor shampoo 4,883,608 Polymeric decontamination composition 4,885,327 Swelled polymeric decontamination composition 4,902,441 Self moistening composition for deactivating toxic substances and method of use 4,949,641 Method of safely detoxifying mustard gases 4,990,334 Glycerol-chlorine matrix 5,011,689 Composition of matter and method for treating poison ivy 5,080,707 Life-prolonging agent for cut flower and method for treatment of cut flower 5,162,745 Multichannel sine synthesizer 5,192,498 Elimination of sulfide odor in thiocarbamate herbicides 5,240,699 Deodorant and filter using same, as well as method of producing the deodorant 5,369,108 Potent inducers of terminal differentiation and methods of use thereof 5,409,908 Complexing urushiols 5,443,847 Specific detoxification of urushiol with manganese salts 5,540,964 Moisture transport cast lining material for use beneath an orthopedic cast, being in the form of a fabric and consisting essentially of synthetic hydrophobic fibers or a blend of synthetic hydrophobic fibers and a second different fiber 5,620,527 Cleansing and disinfecting method 5,686,074 Poison ivy treatment composition and method of use 5,700,811 Potent inducers of terminal differentiation and method of use thereof 5,707,546 Generation and storage of chlorine dioxide in a non-aqueous medium 5,767,109 Complexing urushiols 5,811,113 Method and composition for deactivating HIV infected blood and for deactivating and decolorizing anticancer drugs 5,859,066 Method for the treatment of itching 5,888,515 Rhus dermatitis treatment composition and method 5,932,616 Potent inducers of terminal differentiation and methods of use thereof 5,985,302 Method for deactivating a contaminant 6,022,565 Rhus dermatitis treatment composition and method 6,087,367 Potent inducers of terminal differentiation and methods of use thereof 6,296,841 Odor control composition and process 6,423,746 Urushiol induced contact dermatitis and method of use 6,436,445 Antimicrobial and antiviral compositions containing an oxidizing species 6,511,990 Class of cytodifferentiating agents and histone deacetylase inhibitors, and methods of use thereof 6,534,075 Antimicrobial and antiviral compositions and treatments for food surfaces 6,584,633 Automated fragrance application apparatus and method 6,599,432 Methods for disinfecting small diameter water lines 6,613,729 Wet wipes containing cationic fatty acid surfactants 6,718,914 Method for neutralizing offensive chemical odors 6,800,305 Pharmaceutical composition that contains eucalyptus and orange oil 6,830,764 Method for denaturing allergens 6,855,328 Antimicrobial and antiviral compositions containing an oxidizing species 6,936,580 Hard surface cleaning pre-moistened wipes 6,994,890 Cleaning and multifunctional coating composition containing an organosilane quaternary compound and hydrogen peroxide 7,008,963 Urushiol induced contact dermatitis solution 7,033,511 Sustained water treatment in dental equipment 7,087,253 Pharmaceutical composition, comprising eucalyptus oil and orange oil 7,126,001 Class of cytodifferentiating agents and histone deacetylase inhibitors, and methods of use thereof 7,199,134 Hydroxamic acid compounds and methods of use thereof 7,288,527 Inhibition of allergic contact dermatitis by N-L-alpha-aspartyl- L-phenylalanine 1-methyl ester 7,345,174 Cytodifferentiating agents and histone deacetylase inhibitors, and methods of use thereof 7,351,747 Skin treatment for relief of itch 7,510,137 Dispenser for sheet material 7,589,054 Clathrates of an organosilane quaternary ammonium compound and urea and methods of use 7,618,616 Skin-protective compositions effective against vesicants and percutaneous chemical agents 7,666,829 Compositions for elastogenesis and connective tissue treatment 7,716,956 Attachment means 7,741,089 Laccases, nucleic acids encoding them and methods for making and using them 7,754,004 Thickened surfactant-free cleansing and multifunctional liquid coating compositions containing nonreactive abrasive solid particles and an organosilane quaternary compound and methods of using 7,799,803 Hydroxamic acid compounds and methods of use thereof 7,816,327 Inhibition of allergic contact dermatitis by N-L-alpha-aspartyl- L-phenylalanine 1-methyl ester 7,858,570 Compositions and methods for removing urushiol and treating the resulting skin condition 7,906,149 Method for treating allergic dermatitis 7,971,457 Devices for dispensing a laundry agent and methods for doing same 8,022,054 Liquid ganaxolone formulations and methods for use thereof 8,067,358 Triple-action remedy for removing toxic oils from skin 8,097,442 Laccases, nucleic acids encoding them and methods for making and using them 8,105,787 Applications of nucleic acid fragments 8,114,829 Elastin protective polyphenolics and methods of using the same 8,188,029 Hydrophilic polyurethane foam articles comprising an antimicrobial compound 8,257,780 Therapeutic composition containing an organosilane quaternary compound and hydrogen peroxide for treating skin disorders and methods of using RE38,506 Potent inducers of terminal differentiation and methods of use thereofWhen I'm done reading, I'll summarize for all to benefit.
The glycol ether is supposedly a biocide, so, it might be.
It's the most important component of the detox solution because it will do two jobs deep in the dermis at the Langerhans layer.
So, it behooves me to find a good source for the glycol ether.
It matters which one I choose because the shorter chain glycol ethers are known to cause testicular degeneration (whatever that is - but it doesn't sound good).
I haven't chosen which glycol ether yet, as my choice is either the nonyl phenyl ethoxylate commonly known as nonoxyl-9, or the longer-chain butyl variant (111-76-2) known as 2-Butoxyethanol.
I'm still reading up on this so that's why I haven't chosen which glycol ether to use yet.
I was thinking about ajax - but that seems too abrasive. Pumice would obviously work. As would the polyethylene granules.
An abrasive is important because we're assuming the urushiol sap has been on the skin for a day or two, so we need to get deep down to the Langerhans's dendritic cell layer where the now-activated quinone is bound to the receptor.
We then need to pull that quinone OFF the receptor, and replace it with the glycol ether, along with blocking all the other receptors with glycol ether.
Then we need to wash it all away, so that it doesn't infect further.
Good point!
This is actually a VERY GOOD attack plan!
It would work. And, it doesn't require a huge spraying effort.
I think that's what I'll do.
The beauty of the tunnels is that these are VINES.
The weak link on a huge vine is merely to slice it near the bottom.
If I cut a path, that kills a LOT of cross-connecting vines!
If I cut a cross, that kills ALMOST ALL the vines at one point.
Nice idea!
Then, as you said, widening is easy, year by year.
I have the time to kill the vine!
I love innovative ideas that make sense! This one makes sense!
Hoses expand a bit. Might have to spray for a few seconds, and then let the pressure come back up. The pressure builds back up, and the hoses swell up a little.
I've worked at the end of 300 feet of hose, cleaning a roof top AC at a mall, and it wasn't too awful bad. I was pleasantly surprised. Larger 3/4 good quality braided nylon hose will perform a lot better than kinked 1/2 vinyl, as you'd expect.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Good point!
Must have resonated well. This is the largest number of exclaimation points I've seen in this thread!!!!!!
I guess calling in the Air Force to practice with napalm has been ruled out?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
This is actually a VERY GOOD attack plan!
It would work. And, it doesn't require a huge spraying effort.
I think that's what I'll do.
The beauty of the tunnels is that these are VINES.
The weak link on a huge vine is merely to slice it near the bottom.
If I cut a path, that kills a LOT of cross-connecting vines!
If I cut a cross, that kills ALMOST ALL the vines at one point.
Nice idea!
Then, as you said, widening is easy, year by year.
I have the time to kill the vine!
I love innovative ideas that make sense! This one makes sense!
I'd worry more about having the physical strength to drag 400' of garden hose about, on uneven ground 100' of hose filled with water is heavy and difficult to maneuver... and you'll end up stretching the hose causing permanent damage. I once made the mistake of buying eight 100' lengths of 5/8" garden hose because it was on sale at Lowe's, thought it a good way to water some young trees I planted around my property, NOT! Even on level ground I could barely drag two lengths. I ended up filling several 5 gallon contractor buckets and hauling them in a wagon attached to my tractor. There's good reason those hose reels only have a capacity of about 150'. A garden hose filled with water is quite heavy... empty hose is even more difficult to drag about, it twists and kinks. Those silly light weight hoses shown on TV of late are a bad idea, dragging them in more then a 25' length filled with water will ruin them immediately.
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