Ah. Thanks (and to others who said this too).
I 'could' hook up a few hoses (I bought a few of the gray Costco 3/4"
"industrial" 100-foot hoses a couple of years ago.
They're actually crummy hoses (they kink too much compared to rubber),
but they're long. I'd only need four of them but in reality, I was
looking for a more portable solution once I'm down there, in the ravine,
surrounded by the poison oak.
I'd consult the manual I had it.
I can, of course, google for it (or something similar), and, I can ask
Cosco - I think that's where I bought it - for the company name, but, I
didn't try all that hard simply because I 'suspected' I need to drag four
hundred feet of garden hose - which - isn't really all that useful.
Plus, I won't be spraying a huge swath, 20 feet to 50 feet deep without
the leaves berrys being on the vine, as I'd be wasting my time.
In addition, I DO plan on spraying what I cut as I learned from this
thread that I MUST spray within five minutes (before the sap reverses),
but, for that, since it was just cut, I should have access with the hand
So, there is no rush on figuring out HOW the sprayer works.
On a different note ... I put the camera strap in the bleach wash:
I was surprised. I had expected it to come out WHITE (I used a LOT of
pool chlorine - which is double strength of normal chlorine).
That strap came out better than new.
In addition, the camera is now fully swabbed down with the 1:1:1 mixture
of oxidizer + wetting agent + surfactant ... so let's hope the wife &
kids don't come down with the itchies in the next week!
If I had a sprayer that went 20 feet, that would go a long way toward
killing (at least half) the Pacific Poison Oak I want dead.
I tried getting my Honda pressure washer to spray from a 5 gallon jug,
but I haven't figured out the controls to do so.
The best time to spray, I'm told, is when the fruits are out.
i have a weed sprayer container that sucks via an venturi, that attaches
to a regular hose that will easily shoot 20' in a stream, or can be
adjusted to spray in a fan. it only cost a few dollars at the borg.
On Fri, 11 Jan 2013 11:25:40 -0700, chaniarts wrote:
Thanks for the picture of that weed sprayer.
It appears to use a garden hose as part of the apparatus?
I mentioned somewhere in this thread that this infestation of poison oak
starts something like 400 or 500 feet from the house (I haven't meaured
it but it's easily a football field away), and goes for a few hundred
feet further in the downhill direction.
It's not impossible to handle 500 feet of garden hose (I probably have
just about that much already) ... it's not the easiest approach.
Personally I'm looking for a more portable solution for the mountain
folks like me who have hilly acreage.
God, what a nightmare. I get an allergic reaction to poison ivy just
looking at it. Even looking at your pictures gives me itchy blisters.
Those things look malevolent, like they're aware of and looking to
catch and kill human beings.
Funny you should say that, because I treat it like a battleground! :)
I dress up in my protective gear, and I fuel and oil my weapon, and then
I survey my enemy, looking for the weak spots in his fortress.
As I attack, he reaches out at any bare skin with chemical warfare (1 cup
of urushiol can poison everyone on the entire planet!) and I coil back in
fear when it slaps me in the face.
But, while slashing away at the outliers, soon I spy the leadership, a
thick set of vines, each the thickness of a baseball bat, and I aim at
them as Alexander did Darias, to fight my way past the wounded weeping
tendrils guarding the lair, until I can get close enough to strike deep
and hard at the core!
In the end, I win, and hold up the bleeding trophy in my triumphant hands!
Note: The amount of urushiol you see dripping in that one picture can
poison the entire population of the planet, according to the prior
On Tue, 08 Jan 2013 07:56:54 -0800, DD_BobK wrote:
Those are quite nice!
I do agree that a sideswipe along the isocline line of the steep hill is
the way to go because the main roots are six inches thick, and then they
branch out in one and two inch thick trunks.
When I cut a trunk, it feels good because I know I've killed a lot but
the problem is that the plant really fortresses those thick roots.
They're wholly surrounded by the thinner finger-thick and pencil-thick
vines such that you can't get near the main supply line without getting
soaked in urushiol.
We are very fortunate here in the UK to not have anything remotely as
bad as poison oak/ivy. I wondered, though, if you could find the main
trunk(s), would it be possible to pull it out with a chain attached to a
truck (winch or tow it). That would avoid a lot of cutting with a
chainsaw when the plant is alive, and spreading of the poisonous sap.
I have a problem with multi-flora rose. Giant nasty rose bushes that
dont die from roundup or other herbicides. Although they are not
poisonous, so they could be cut with a chainsaw, but to do so would mean
getting under them, and becomeing all torn up from the thorns. I
designed a chain that has a loop in the end that I lay around the and
hook to my farm tractor. When the tractor moves, the chain tightens
around their base, and they will be ripped out of the ground. Then they
go to my burn pile. However any roots left over will sprout again. But
on the small young ones, roundup works.
I've had some huge ones that would stop my tractor. Either the tires
slip, or the engine kills. I found that the only way to get rid of
those is to burn them. Dump brush and some smaller logs around them,
then a gallon of diesel fuel, and ignite. They do not come back once
they are burned.
The OP said he can not burn the poison oak. How about soaking the base
of them around the roots with diesel fuel. That almost surely will kill
them. Then just let them rot. I dont know how long it takes for that
oil that causes the skin irritation to go away after the plant is dead.
You'd have to do research on that.
Maybe your local County Extension office can help too. They seem to
have info on most local problem plants.
I'm sure someone will state that diesel fuel is harmful to the
environment. Yes it is, but probably does less harm than many of the
commercial chemicals that are used to kill plants and insects.
On Tue, 08 Jan 2013 12:42:29 -0600, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
A lot of farmers in this rural community kill poison ivy and poison
sumac by applying a goodly quantity of rock salt at their base. The
plant dies and within a year of rain and snow the salt washes away.
I've gotten rid of rugosa rose with water softener salt.
On Tue, 08 Jan 2013 13:52:16 -0500, Brooklyn1 wrote:
I like the idea of rock salt as it must be cheaper than the $100
containers of weed killer that I'm buying today (2.5 gallons each).
This web site explains the NaCl concentration for weed killer:
While the NaCl appears to be effective, that page also outlines the
major problem when it's applied on a hillside where my plant resides.
Plus, I still need to manually remove the dead plants, which are
(almost) as toxic dead as they were alive - at least for the
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