Multi meter ?

Johny B Good submitted this idea :

I keep lots of cheap ones around and some some very expensive professional ones. I've never bothered to count, but at least 25+. I would not recommend a cheap one for mains voltage and current levels, because they are poorly built and down to a price. The risk is of them suffering an internal fault and with several hundred amps of fault current behind them, they have been known to kill. There are several quite graphic examples to be found on the net, complete with photos.

Again no. They just cannot be relied upon. They are dim, they need the user to be earthed and if they suffer an internal short, you get a belt or worse.

For mains work, a Fluke voltstick is far more useful and much safer. You don't need to be earthed, the wires do not need to be bared, or have any metal to metal contact, because they pickup the field around the cable.

With practise, you can even trace the live wire in a 3 core flex and get a fair indication of whether the neutral might be missing. You can even check whether a cartridge fuse has blown in a dis-board, without disturbing any of the other circuits.

Best thing since sliced bread, in the hands of someone experienced - but they still need to be backed up by the use of proper test equipment, before working on a circuit, to prove it is isolated.

They are only good to prove something is live, not to be relied upon as proof that something is safely isolated.

You can test a volt stick is working, by rubbing it's nose on your hairy arm.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield
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The ones linked to are designed to be more useable with two hands since one of the probes is fixed to the meter body. They usually also have relatively small contact tips so that its difficult to use them to short anything out.

You can get new probe sets from CPC etc that will include proper screw on croc clips for the ends of the probes - or even leads with 4mm plug at one end and an insulated croc clip at the other.

Reply to
John Rumm

Given the price of entry level modern DMMs these days, there is no cost justification for not just buying one *as well* as the more specialist kit for jobs that the specialist kit is not suited for.

Reply to
John Rumm

So twice the price of a digital one then...

Reply to
John Rumm

Dave Plowman (News) expressed precisely :

Not sure what you want which is more specific, if you mean the weird fault...

It was the voltage sensing relay used for towing. I had set it to drop out and it was dropping out, or there was no output from it without the engine running, but yet the electronics were oscillating.

My cars battery if the car was left for a couple weeks unused, would be flat. A digital meter made no sense of the current flow, just random variations, but the AVO 8 showed it up perfectly. It was constantly varying between 30mA and 150mA. To make the digital problem worse, there were various other electronics on the car intermitantly firing themselves up, as they should, plus things being woken up by the oscillation.

I traced it by pulling the major fuses first until it stopped, then down to the smaller fuses on that major fuse. After lots of fuse pulling and lots of waiting around for processors to go back to sleep mode, I eventually traced it to the voltage relay module. To save further messing, I simply put a 50 amp relay in its main feed, powered by the ignition circuit.

There have been no issues since and the normal current once my car is asleep is 18mA, with every few seconds a brief pulse up to 25mA. I'm guessing the pulse is the alarm or possibly the Body Control Unit having a quick look around.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

snipped-for-privacy@care2.com presented the following explanation :

They were very labour intensive to build, they were always expensive, but more so towards the end as production wound down.

I would not part with mine.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Its probably worth adding that the risk with mains work will depend quite significantly with where you are making measurements. While working in an appliance, plugged into a circuit via a length of flex, and many more metres of cable back to a consumer unit, you are less likely[1] to encounter truly scary fault currents, since you will quite likely be "buffered" by by an ohm or more of loop impedance.

If on the other hand you are making measurements in the consumer unit or on other more "industrial" distribution gear, then its just not worth the risk of using anything that is not designed, tested, and certified for the appropriate energy level of the circuit under test.

[1] Although not guaranteed - so there is an element here of "know your environment"

Indeed - they usually don't even make good screwdrivers! Safest thing to do with them is chuck them in the bin - it removes any temptation to try them.

Reply to
John Rumm

DMMs are generally useless on unsteady readings

NT

Reply to
meow2222

They were the de facto standard you'd see on just about every half decent workbench, though.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Decent one will have a low/high/average hold.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

But how do the other cheaper brands compare? E.g. TM PL107 and MK 6090 from TLC or Kewstick and (much cheaper) LAP from Screwfix.

I have a Fluke LVD2 which has performed very well but I'm far from happy about its durability. The switch can sometimes be intermittent and just recently the retaining catch for the cap and part of the casing around it has cracked off which means that I'm now using it with the switch held in place with insulating tape. In due course I'll need to replace it but I'd prefer to replace it with something more durable instead of like with like.

Reply to
Mike Clarke

Exactly.

Reply to
ARW

And the GS38 guidance that Owain mentioned is available on line

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Reply to
ARW

But in those days electric motors were relatively much more expensive than they are now and accounted for most of the cost of the tool so adding attachments to an existing drill was an attractive option.

Reply to
Mike Clarke

Brian Gaff was thinking very hard :

When buying a meter, I look for built in user error protection, auto power down and a continuity buzzer which works instantly the probes make contact - many do not work instantly.

I have one cheapy meter which fits the above bill, which has survived for years - nice big digits, if you put it on the continuity or resistance range then connect it to the mains, it would just shut the display down, then recover without releasing the smoke.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Dave Plowman (News) used his keyboard to write :

Not quite the same as a needle pointer moving about.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

At one time those yellow multimeters were BOGOF at 99p somewhere, I bought four of them. The only big snag is they don't buzz on continuity. But neither does my £45 one anymore 8-(

Reply to
dennis

I have no idea, I bought a cheapy one way back when they first came out, just to see what they could do. I was pleased with it, other than the robustness, lack of auto off and the lack of a buzzer. I then tried the Fluke, which was great in all respects, since when I bought another three as they were on ex's.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

I've got a cheapy one, came from Toolstation or Screwfix.

ISTM it hasn't got to do very much - tell me if there is a volatge or not in a cable.

Seems to work fine and I haven't lost of broken it yet

Reply to
Chris French

Thanks

Reply to
Robin

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