I've built three shower rooms so far and I've learnt: Fit a really good room heater and make sure it's on for 45 minutes before you take a shower.
Bill
I've built three shower rooms so far and I've learnt: Fit a really good room heater and make sure it's on for 45 minutes before you take a shower.
Bill
Is your outbuilding connected to the house? A 10.5kW shower will require a 10mm sq. T&E cable and that's before you consider lighting and heating.
Richard
Our electric shower is well over 10 years old and in a hard water area and it's still going strong (without a softener).
My first one lasted 21 years on hard water. Changed it only because some mechanical bits eventually were beyond repair.
That has to be a recommendation! Aqualisa Quartz in Harpenden flat (lots of showering) lasts 6 months before limescale on the heater causes
*overheat trips*.
In in doubt:
40 degree rise in water temp (10 C to 50 C ie a nice hot shower in winter): 7.0 kW 2.50 l/min (4.3 pints/min) 10.5 kW 3.75 l/min (6.6 pints/min)
The 7 kW is not much more than a large dribble, 10.5 kW more acceptable and with careful choice of shower head may produce a decent shower. It depends what you like froma shower, high pressure low flow needles or low pressure good flow drench.
pre-heat
23 kW available so yes but the 2 kW fan heater and/or the load of the rest of the house might be a problem. B-) But then the 100 A fuse isn't going to blow at 2 mA over 100 A...
The current Mira Sport is doing ok, and the previous Triton did fine once I learned to run it cold before turning it off (the Mira Sport does that automatically, Triton replaced due to shower rebuild).
If I shower with the water at over 40C it seems far too hot.
Bill
If I shower at less than 50C it seems far too cold.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com presented the following explanation :
The higher the power, the faster can be the flow rate whilst still holding the same temperature.
Excellent.
It's a Gainsborough T20.....8.4 Kw.
I sense a conflict, if you both shower together :-)
50c is painfully hot. Ours is electronic thermostatic and I've just checked the setting I use - 39.2. She always complains that is not hot enough for her and sets it to 41.6.
The better ones don't have a flow control any more, they just have a button(s) and a dial for the temperature setting. The water flow is controlled by solenoid valves and the power by triacs. Well worth paying the extra for, because you can just dial your temperature in and the output temperature is very closely controlled to a fraction of a degree.
I would not install another of the type where you have to adjust the flow manually.
Not if you install a modern one, where you dial in your temperature.
High pressure, 20l a minute myself.
Well the mixer valve on the output of the thermal store is set to the low 50's it's hot but not excessively so.
And you've checked the calibration? I always find the 43C "maximum safe temperature" click stop on hotel showers very definately on the cold side of cool.
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