For me it was this one:
A tip I learned here, and one of the most wonderful timesavers EVAR. Shoot your nails, say when installing baseboard or window trim, through a piece of masking tape. Then apply the filler. Then remove tape. Minimal sanding. I now do a few face-frames that way too... forget about bicuits and pocketscrews... (Only applies when painting afterwards, of course.)
I wish I could remember who posted that tip...but thank you!
r
dont eat yellow snow
What the Heck does the masking tape do?
It was Leon
Using sandpaper to sharpen chisels and irons.
Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)
Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
-Nathan
P.S. I saw this tip in this month's Family Handyman if you're still unsure how it works.
Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
-Nathan
P.S. I saw this tip in this month's Family Handyman if you're still unsure how it works.
Hot gluing those new skinny CD cases back to back so you can label the edge and still use the old CD holders.
When pulling apart a joint during dry fitting make sure what stops the piece is not your chin. It's just a shame I can't seem to follow it.
-Leuf
Keeps the filler from getting all over the wood.
You have to sand a dot of filler that's maybe 1/16" instead of a square inch of wood-filler smeared wood.
-Nathan
P.S. I saw this tip in this month's Family Handyman if you're still unsure how it works.
Buy ONCE - cry ONCE.
It's so easy to buy an "inexpensive" tool and "making do with it". It's like using a dull tool - more effort, more aggravation, more time, and often not even an acceptable result - to say nothing of the often associated injuries.
I think it was Walt Akers who wrote an article about the fact that all power tools cost at least $1,100. You can buy a $400 model, add another $400 in "uprgrades" over the next few years, screw up a couple of hundred dollars worth of wood and another hundred or two in wasted time and frustration. OR, you could get the $1,100 unit first and spend the time you save using the wood you saved - to actually make things.
charlie b
I needed to get a quick primer on purchasing, proper preparation and use of hide glue to fix that kids bass. Got all the info I needed here
Send for the LV catalog - I'm still not certain if that was the best tip or the worst. ;-)
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
That is a reason but the primary reason is to keep the putty/filler out of the surrounding grain. Putty in the grain is very hard to remove with out sanding a divot in the wood.
Kill file trolls and knot heads.
Leuf wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Don't look down or you might get a bloody nose! :-)
Puckdropper
"Robatoy" wrote in news:1162312807.471689.252290 @e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com:
When just starting out with routers, but one of those cheap multi-sets and see how you like the profile. When a bit wears out, buy a good quality bit.
Puckdropper
My tip is the only way to keep knots from bleeding though painted woodwork is shellac. Forget Kiltz or any other stain killer paint (unless you use shellac first).
My father told me this and I didn't believe him and I used a stain killer paint (BIN) on some old woodwork. One year later the knots bleed though again. Then I built a shelf for my sons closest out of a piece of pine with huge knots that that were practically oozing sap. I painted the knots with 3 coats of shellac followed by stain kill paint, followed by latex. After three years there is sill no sign of the knots in the closet or on the old woodwork.
I've also used it outside on that pre-primed pine trim that Home Depot/Lowes sells with good success. I think they prime it so you can't see how many knots are present. Same formula, thee coats shellac, followed by stain kill paint, followed by latex.
Scott
BIN is tinted shelac.
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