Oops - I didn't realize what you were building :-).
Oops - I didn't realize what you were building :-).
Tom.. does it have to be a "finish" as opposed to an overlay?
Lots of factory stuff is made with a laminated sheet good that looks like thin formica but is some sort of teflon derivative...
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Umm.. no idea of the rules here, so sort of handicapped... Is the use of a wood washer also prohibited?
I'd think that besides making the wheel slide better at the friction point, you'd also want to minimize the SIZE of the friction point... but then again, my math really sucks and I haven't got a clue about figuring out friction/surface area..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Pinewood Derby season again?
Barry
How about Slip Plate paint. Basically graphite lube with a base and binder. Sure makes snowblowers and mowing decks slick.
Steve - An interesting product & web site.
I've put it on my 'Favorites' list.
Thanks, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
Mike - NOTE my FIRST sentience . . .
Also he did ask "What is the HARDEST & SMOOTHEST . . .". No mention of '. . . the EASIEST {that will do 95% of the job}'.
Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
SNIP {of a 10-step, involved process}
Sikkens Autocryl Clear. Harder than a boss's heart. Looks like it stays wet. It's a three-part finish which meets spec for topcoats for Mercedes, Porsche etc. The difficulty is in obtaining small amounts. I have used it in commercial applications where it has stood up brilliantly over the years. If laminate is more robust, it is not by much. The fun part is that one can buy a 'Matting Clear'. By adding that, instead (percentage) of the main Autocryl component, one has infinite control of sheen. IOW, what you have left, can be used in high wear applications like... thresholds. Potlife (Mixed) is about 1 hour. Shelflife opened is about a year. Clean your gun.. I mean CLEAN it with their thinner (part 3).
It is really remarkably tough stuff. Do NOT apply to raised panel doors as the contraction and expansion will tear the door up where the panel is painted/stuck to the rail/stile. DAMHIKT.
I put a cherry veneer fridge panel right next to my gas range and after
12 years of cleaning with a variety of noxious substances, not a trace of wear. Looks new like the day I installed it. If it wasn't so damned expensive, I'd use it on everything. (Comes in 330,00 colours as well. Rolls Royce has a spec for bronze metallic. I have been tempted to lay out the cash and refinish my American Standard Telecaster.... but I kinda like the black it is now.)Akzo Nobel are the Americanadian distributors.
I've used it a LOT for various items. The company themselves also make many other types of lubricants as well.
I didn't question your post Ron. That's why I took the time to state that my curiosity was peaked. I am curious if any of the suggestions are any better than the obvious solution. My guess that the poly approach would work every bit as well as any of the other suggestions speaks more to the OP's quest for the hardest smoothest finish than it does to your response. I suspect he's in search of incremental gains that just won't be measurable.
How about adding a lubricant to the finish? My BIL, who owns a paint company, once finished the slide at a children's playground and added silicone to the varnish. You could also try adding graphite powder or Teflon powder to a two-part urethane or catalyzed lacquer. The hardness of two-part urethane is determined by the ratio of hardener to resin so you could formulate to maximum hardness, add some of the aforementioned cat snot and... you know, "be" the slippery slope.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas.
I like the idea about embedding the graphite in the surface film.
Gonna try that one out.
Tom Watson
So? Is it Pinewood Derby season?
Barry
2/6/06.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcast.net (real email)
Go get 'em!
Let us know how the Watson crew fares!
Barry
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