Just a note but a Yakima rack with the medium bars holds plywood nicely. The weight you can carry is limited (typically around 150 pounds officially) but it does work. And when you're not using it for plywood it will also carry bicycles, kayaks, or what have you.
Now pay $135 an hour to have it installed and his price is pretty optimistic!!! Some people are not able or willing to attempt installing a hitch - particularly a "hidden hitch" - and others that are shouldn't (You wouldn't believe what I've seen!!!!)
Lots of newer vehicles require a power feed and a relay kit. Not using one risks destroying tthe wiring harness and/or the BCM. Everything is controlled by the CAN Net
My sister rented a U-Haul to move from Ontario to BC - along with a car trailer (they has 2 vehicles to move) and they went through about
10 gallons of oil getting to Thunder Bay - then had to drive it to Winnipeg to get a replacement truck and re-load everything.
They used to have the crappiest. most poorly maintained rental fleet around. I notice they seem to have newer trucks recently - but no way will I rent from them if I have an alternative.
The problem may lurk behind the fact that generally, a U-haul franchise doesn't "own" its own vehicles. There are exceptions, and I don't know anymore than I have learned from my couple of experiences with them. U-Haul once provided me with, 6 hours late, an under-puckered moving truck to move across the country with. The receiving end informed me that it really wasn't the right sort of truck for that sort of duty. But, they are the moving experts, right? ha.
_you_ can. I can't. Or rather, about ten years ago, I gave up trying to do all my own auto work. Something about gravel carports, rain, and other interests.
Ah, good point. Now if I had a garage, and one with a free wall....
"All trucks owned by the U-Haul corporation (including those assigned and decaled for use in Canada) display apportioned Arizona license plates that do not expire. Newer trailers in the U-Haul fleet have apportioned plates, registered in a variety of states. In the Alaska and Hawaii markets, U-Haul registers equipment locally because those states do not have apportioned vehicle registration systems."
However, as written, the first and last sentence appear to contradict each other, so I don't know how accurate the rest of the information is.
Michael Trew snipped-for-privacy@ymail.com wrote in news:saafjj$bue$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
They really push those, don't they? I tried getting a quote on their website and had to tell them several times I didn't want the extras. All I wanted was a truck to put some plywood in.
Tempting! It's probably fully depreciated too, so the truck would sell for close to that after a year or so of ownership. What really killed having a truck for me was the poor mileage meant it wasn't going anywhere and the insurance was expensive especially for something sitting in the driveway.
Fully depreciated? Very much so... lol. Runs and drives, that's what counts. Liability only insurance (a couple steps above state minimum) costs maybe $180 for a 6 month premium, but it would probably be cheaper for anyone older than me, being 26. It's cheap enough to own that I can justify keeping one on hand for a back up vehicle or to haul things. However, 12 MPG on the way to work? No thanks.
Liability insurance has nothing to do with the vehicle, rather how much *you're* worth and how much *you* are willing to lose. I'd never have less than $1M (but I'm not 26, either). For my two cars, it's more like $2.4K/yr.
At 21 MPG (canadian) I can afford to drive mine and full coverage at about $700 a year isn't terrible for insurance (69 and a clean record)
- and it hit bottom value-wize about 8 years ago and is now on the way up. I can put declared value on it at $14000 for under $600 with Hagerty and will likely do that when renewal time comes around.
That's a fair point. Most of my vehicles are not even worth a few thousand dollars. Ohio state minimum insurance is $25K/$50k/$25k (one person injury-death/injury-death multiple people/property damage). I think I pay for 2 steps above minimum, something like $150k/$300K/$150k. I think that was the break even point with what would cost a fair bit more for additional levels of coverage. I also pay a bit extra for uninsured/under-insured motorist coverage, if someone hits me not at my fault, but their insurance isn't up to par.
I raised my insurance to this level after my stepbrother had a very serious motorcycle accident. He almost died, he was thrown from the bike when a company SUV ran a red light and hit him. Fortunately, the company had very good insurance, as a business should. If the driver had state minimum, the $25K coverage for one person would have been all he got. Keep in mind, the chopper life-light to the hospital cost $24K alone... I don't think the $1k left would cover the hospital bill... Not to mention rehab, etc.
Is your coverage also full coverage? I'd probably spring for that, cost depending, if I didn't drive beaters that are older than me. I typically only insure 2 vehicles at a time. Whatever full coverage would cost me, if an insurer would even provide full coverage for my old cars, would likely cost more annually than several of the vehicles are even worth.
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