Table saw blade height

With proper safety protocall in place, nix the first two.

Barely out of the wood increases heat and can cause the wood to react more and possibly cause a kick back.

A lot of blade exposed, well more harm of being cut, a contradiction of the first suggestion.

Regardless of where the blade is at there will be a push/kick back if you loose control of the wood, meaning let go and let the blade have its way with the wood.

Blade raised to the top bottom of the gullet produces faster, cleaner, and easier cuts. Less chance for a mistake.

If yu want the blade to be safe, use a diamond tile saw blade. Slow but safe.

Or get a SawStop and practice suggestion 3.

When I cut wood 1/2" or less thick boards, I set the blade teeth tips just above the wood surface. For thicker stuff, usually something on the order of exposing the whole gullet. No matter what the setting, general safety concerns and controlling the board during the cut is paramount.... This includes *knowing(?) the board. Common sense safety includes knowing your saw, as well.

Knowing the board - Lots of my boards are salvaged or rough cut from the log, so gauging how a board will react during a cut is important, especially with my rough cut stuff (I've had logs milled.).

With salvaged boards (from experience!!!), I'm always more aware, these days as compared to when first starting out, of the prospect of hitting a nail or such. Blade height may be of some relevance, here, but I've learned to not be so surprised if I hit metal. I've kind of learned to *expect to hit metal with some boards, so I'm prepared for that "action", as best I can be, during the cut. Controlling the board and your wits are more important, to me, than blade height. Also, I have a cheap blade on one saw when I expect to hit metal. Finish or clean cutting is done on another saw with a WWII blade.

Generally, I suppose in my cases, blade height is not the most important thing to regulate.

Sonny