They do NOT have to be slowed for vertical.
You do have to have a tall fence and a steady hand.
Any "tiny" little slip and there goes the big old panel.
Yes...the verticals are pretty good size also.
Here is even another way to do it...
NoOne N Particular wrote:
I put a little different spin (pun intended) on this by mounting the router
horizontally on the back of the table and built a jig to raise and lower the
router, the verticle bit lay in a groove in the table top. lay the panel on
its face and route away, small bites and removing most of the wood on the TS
worked great on hard maple with a PC690 and a speed control.
"Shut up and keep diggen"
Maybe I said that wrong and maybe you misunderstood my comment. What I was
trying to indicate was that you cannot use a vertical bit on an end or side
of a board that may curve in or out. If you can do this yourself, would you
care to explain how this is done?
I think I understand you... you're just wrong is all <G>. just to be
clear as mud here, we're talking about an arched rather than a bowed
panel..... the panel is a flat plane, but it's edges aren't straight.
inside curves are harder than outside curves, especially if the curve
is tight- at some point you cannot extend the bit far enough from the
base of the router- but-
for serpentine curves make a follower bearing that is positioned above
the base of the cutter (pin router style), with the cutter in a
horizontal router table.
for single radius curves make a curved fence, again in the horizontal
both of these take more setup time than a bearing guided horizontal
bit in a vertical table, and may have no benefit over that approach.
or, they might. I'll make *that* decision when I'm planning the
for bowed panels, you'd be making a curved *table*....
(about setups for raising arched panels with a vertical bit)
On Wed, 04 Aug 2004 12:40:42 GMT, "Leon"
I don't have shots of that kind of setup. mebbe when the table is
freed up I'll set one up.
note that what I'm describing is not necessarily "better" than doing
it with a horizontal bit with a bearing... just pointing out that it
is certainly possible to do with a vertical bit.
nowhere is it written that we must limit ourselves to tooling
configurations that someone else thought up. get in the habit of
making your own jigs and it'll be a lot easier to think your way
through oddball setups.
Let's say you have a curved-top panel (or a piece of radiused window
casing - that sorta thing) that you want to raise and you want to use
a vertically oriented cutter.
(this also works for things like quirk and bead cutters that only come
oriented to the vertical)
You cut your panel out in the flat and you take a piece of mdf or ply
and cut a radius in it to match the outside radius of the curved part
of the panel. This saddle should be no thicker than the minimum
finished thickness of the piece that you will sit on it.
Screw on another piece of mdf or ply onto the back of this curved
saddle. This provides a backstop so the piece has something to
register to. I also put some braces on to give the thing some
Clamp this contraption to the fence, or, what I usually do, add a
piece of mdf or ply at a ninety on the bottom and clamp the whole
thing to the top - and let the fence go visit its relatives for a
Now you raise your cutter to the appropriate height and set the
contraption up so that you will take a very light pass when the curved
top slides past the cutter in the curved saddle.
Fire up the machine and feed the curved piece into it slowly - making
sure to keep it pressed tight to the backer piece that you screwed to
Work your way in until your at the full depth of cut.
BTW - I usually hot melt on a couple of blocks to the face of the
panel, so as to have a good grip on things. Also, do your curved part
before shaping the straight parts - as the failure rate is highest at
the curve and it will piss you off less than having to throw away a
bad curve after making perfect straights. Then too, I always do the
biggest panels first, so that I can cut them into smaller useable
panels if I screw them up.
That's about it.
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
Thank you Tom, you and Bridger have attempted to explain the error of my
thinking and with Bridger's start and your finish I believe I see the light.
Oh, and uh er uh... since you left, the wreck has been much more
enjoyable... Not because YOU left but because of those that left just after
you did. :~)
Vertical bits don't have a speed limitation and don't need to be slowed down
to something like 10,000 rpm. Useful for older routers without speed
control. This is all aside from the fact that spinning a horizontal bit it
quite a bit more scary and has a higher level of danger attached to it than
a spinning vertical panel bit.
He said it was a Freud 3.5" raised panel bit. The Freud vertical panel bits
are 1-1/2"d x 3-3/16" h. I'd say it's a horizontal type.
Buffalo, NY - USA
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