I saw some raised panels cut with a large Grizzly bit. I like the
looks, it's a bevel and bead. However, the router bit is gigantic, on
the order of 3-1/16" in diameter. That would scare me even with a
Porter Cable 7518 in a table. That is a BIG bit.
The profile looks like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1410 - as
you can see, the 12 degree face is unusual. Add the bead in that
position and it's an interesting job.
How would you do this profile without using that giant router bit?
I doubt you can do it with a set of small cutters, unless you have one
But for a trivial example of what you're after, see the
Do understand, (and I agree with your safety concerns) that big cutters
in small routers are a common occurrence. Fence Safety measures are
possible. Tho not clear in this picture, you can isolate yourself from
the cutter. (Pix link = http://patwarner.com/new_pix.html )
This sounds promising. I'll try to visualize it. The first part makes
sense, cut a 12 degree face. The second part - how does that work? The
bead is about 3/16" or so, I would suppose it could be a little bigger
or smaller without ruining the effect.
I thought I would end up trying to use a beading bit on an angle.
you've gotten a couple of good replies.
you could get to this panel look, or at least pretty close, with a
table saw for the bevel followed by a non-bearing roundover bit on the
router table. <http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1318>
it's more work, but does let you avoid swinging a giant bit in the
for that matter, you could drop back 500 years and punt. google "panel
By the time you remove the dia. of the guide you only have apx 1 1/4 cut.
which is very easy to do on the table saw @ 12 degrees as mentioned by
someone else. you could use a scratch block for the round over.
I have a P-C 7539 router and use a 3-wing Eagle America bit at 10,000 rpm.
One of the key things that I did not see on the Grizzly site was the rated
speed of the bit. The Eagle America site says 12,000 rpm max. That's
probably also appropriate for the Grizzly. One problem is that power is
proportional to the square of the speed, so if it's truly a 3-1/4 HP router
at 22,000 rpm, it's about a 3/4 HP router at 10,000 rpm. The Eagle site
says, you'll have to make many light passes. This is the reason. It'll bog
It takes me about 6-8 passes in red oak. I do full depth (bit raised as
high as I want the final cut to be) and move the fence for each successive
cut. This keeps the panel from riding up on the bit.
FWIW, I'm not happy with this router, but, it's what I have.
The vertical panel raiser bits will allow a greater speed and therefore
allow a heavier cut.
All in all, a shaper is the best way, but I don't own one either.
Hope this provides some insight.
That may be true for a synchronous motor with a variable speed drive but
routers generally have universal motors and control the RPM by reducing the
available power rather than by adjusting the frequency of the signal.
True they have universal motors but the speed control does not act like a
simple rheostat. They slow the rpm by pulsing the power, full power pulses.
Most have feedback circuitry to maintain rpm under load.
Cutting the AC waveform off at a certain voltage level, which reduces both
the voltage available and the current.
There's a discussion at <http://www.ubasics.com/node/12/print . The
principle is the same as for a Triac/SCR/Thyristor light dimmer.
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