1.Should a fixed base or plunge router be used for raised panels?
2. I bought a cheap Chinese 3 1/4hp plunge router and the bits do not spin
perfectly true, you can see a slight wobble in the Allen bolt holding the
bearing on. It is not supposed to be like this right? I assume it should
3. How many hp is required for a 2 3/4" raised panel bit and approx. what
I'll try not to ask a newbie question of you, toller! I shudder to ask
potentially foolish questions for fear of being called a fool. We new guys
*need* your experience without the, "You're kidding, right?" kind of
commentary. No offense intended - we just need help without the jab to the
Well, your second question actually *was* just a wee bit foolish, if you don't
mind my saying so, and although I usually don't agree with much of what he
says, I gotta tell ya, toller's answer is right on the money: if it doesn't
spin true, it's not good for much of anything. Take it back to the retailer
and demand a refund. Then buy something decent. Life's too short to buy crappy
As for your other questions, it doesn't much matter whether you use a plunge
or fixed-base router for panel cutting, as long as you have it securely
mounted in a router table. DON'T attempt to cut raised panels while
hand-holding the router. That's dangerous, big time.
I don't think the horsepower really matters much. The stronger the router, the
more wood you can take off in one pass, up to a point. For speed settings,
consult the manufacturer's recommendations, and experiment on scrap.
Maybe.. but it *definitely* would've worked better with a shaper than a
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
It doesn't matter much one way or another. Anyone who doesn't have the
common sense to know that conspicuous runout makes a router useless won't be
around too long anyhow. Or more likely, he is a troll, as no one could
really be that dumb. Get it now?
One could say that "anyone who doesn't have the common sense to know" that
the lack of either guard or splitter on his table saw just might have had a
teeny tiny bit to do with the serious kickback he just experienced "won't be
around too long anyhow. Or more likely, he is a troll, as no one could really
be that dumb."
One could also say that "anyone who doesn't have the common sense to know"
that miswiring duplex breakers, or connecting equipment grounds to circuit
neutrals, is dangerous "won't be around too long anyhow. Or more likely, he is
a troll, as no one could really be that dumb."
But more than a year later... you're still here.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
I use a PRL router lift with a 7518. I wouldn't think of mounting my
other Porter Cable plunge router. That would be a royal PITA!
Don't get a Craftsman "random height adjustment" router! :) I had one
of those for a short time. It was a present that I returned to Sears
for a refund. I then hauled my butt to the local PC dealer and got a
My 7518 is a fixed type. The mounting plate takes care of the height,
using gears and a chain. There are other competing models, such as the
Jointech. Be prepared to cough up some serious cash for either brand.
I just couldn't make to with my cheesy Sears metal router table with my
plunge router. It was too small, too noisy, too messy (no dust
collection chamber) too hard to set the height, too flimsy, and it just
didn't float my boat. <g> If I'm gonna have a hobby like woodworking,
I've got to enjoy my time in the shop. Thankfully, SWMBO FULLY supports
my expenditures on whatever I need. Thank the Lord!
If your means are limited, I'll just sit back and let someone else take
over with suggestions for "simpler" methods of putting a decent router
table/router/router plate or lift together. (I'm not up on the various
Most tables are fitted with fixed base routers. Thee will always be an
If you are buying a new router, consider the combo kits that have two or
three bases. You can mount the fixed in the table and have the plunge and D
handle base for other work.
It the budget will handle it, you can buy a router lift for a table. No
base is needed, just the router motor. Big advantage is ability to adjust
accurately from above the table. www.benchdog.com to see one type.
1. Either, but mount it in a table.
2. It may be just the screw that is off center, does the bearing run out
3. Lots! A cheap router may not be up to the task. I have a Porter Cable
and take three passes in oak with a 3-1/2" raised panel bit, on slow speed,
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