I have a Bosch 1617EVS. I just got a 3.5" raised panel bit.
First problem - The hole in the router table is only 3.2". But the shank on
the bit is long enough that I could put it in a full inch into the collet
and still have it above the router table. I then put the panel on a 1/4"
plywood so it lined up with the bit. Is that an acceptable method?
Second problem - After setting the router to the minimum speed, I tried a
1.5" cut. It was immediately obvious that it wasn't going to work, but that
was as far forward as I could move the fence. So, I clamped some 3/4" stock
to the fence and tried again. Better, but still no good. I added a 1/4"
piece to the fence. With a 1/2" cut it worked, but still not very well.
Am I doing something wrong, or is a 12a router simply not powerful enough to
handle a bit that big? (or maybe minimum speed is too slow?) If I have to
make 1/4" cuts, a whole door will take forever!
In general I would say that is not an acceptable method because you're going
to want to do the panels in multiple passes, starting with the bit only
partially protuding up through the hole. Make or purchase a larger diameter
I think you have the right idea; but maybe the wrong approach. Try putting
a thicker plywood sheet on the router table top (thick enough to fully
retract the router bit below the surface). Then, set the router to remove
wood at about 1/8 inch on each pass. Make the last pass at a cut depth of
only about 1/32 inch or so - this will produce a well finished "clean-up"
cut. Using this approach allows you to cut the full profile width without
moving the fence for each cut - you only need to raise the router each pass
until you reach the panel relief depth that you want. Using this approach,
I have successfully cut 1-1/2 inch wide panel relief profiles with a 1 HP
router. Remember to slow the router speed to about 10,000 RPM when you use
the large diameter panel relief bits.
What does "no good" mean?
I've made plenty of raised panels with the same router and Freud and
Whiteside bits that size, in several hardwoods and MDF. I leave one
side of the fence locked in place, clamp a stop block behind the fence
at the other side, and with use 2-3 passes for the fence to return to
the stop block. I do all the doors, move the fence, do all the doors,
move the fence, done! While I wouldn't recommend this for an all-day
door making setup, I've happily made 10-12 doors at a sitting.
Is the bit sharp? What brand and model is it?
Are you using an extension cord? If so, how long and what gauge? Are
you plugged into a good, stout A/C supply?
It routes, but I can feel is straining if I go more than a crawl. Maybe it
is okay, but it sure doesn't feel right.
It is a brand new CarbTech. It is part of a 5 piece set, and the other 4
Plugged directly into a 20a circuit that runs my 17a TS okay, so its not the
What speed do you set for with a bit this size? I had it all the way at
minimum; maybe that is too low?
Otherwise, all I can figure is that setting above the table is wrong
somehow, but the cut was nice and smooth.
I appreciate your help.
That's where I'd put it, maybe a notch above minimum speed.
Keep in mind that at slow speeds it takes the tips of that large bit
much longer to make a full circle than the small bits you're probably
used to using, so the feed rate has to be adjusted accordingly.
The motor pitch of my router does change, but it seems to maintain
"Pitch" is simply a tones position in a scale and is frequency dependent, as
you say. However, I would tend to describe the "distinctive quality of a
sound" as its "timbre".
The pitch can change, while the timbre of the source remains characteristic
... IOW, a clarinet still sounds like a clarinet, even though its pitch
changes during a song.
Same with a router, AFAICT.
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