I adjusted the tension so much to account for the 1/2" difference in
blade length because of the riser, I'm not sure the indicator has much
meaning. I followed the Highland article suggestions on tensioning.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
I agree with John about using a sled for the logs. You may be getting bow
because the "verticality" of what you are cutting varies.
I prefer a pivot for the little bit of resawing I do...the pivot is one
point, my left thumb is another. I have also used a short fence, worked
pretty well. By "short fence" I mean a fence only on the infeed side.
Probably way way to narrow of a blade. The more the blade twists the
more it will go off track of a straight line. Logs tend to be
inconstant with moisture content, dryer in some spots and wetter in
others. This can cause the blade to want to wander. A wider blade is
less likely. If I resaw 6" or more I go with at least a 1" blade.
If you are taxing the saw/blade nothing is going to give you a good cut.
But a 14" saw won't take a 1" blade (1/8" to 3/4" according to Grizzly).
And from what I've read, even a 3/4" blade can bend the frame of a 14"
bandsaw. A riser makes the problem worse.
I used to cut a lot of green wood for turning. I wound up spraying Dri-
Cote on the blade to minimize the sap buildup. That helped some.
Last fall I ripped a well dried 6"x8" beam into boards with a 1/2"
Timberwolf blade. I eventually got several usable boards from it, but had
lots of problems with the blade bowing in the wood. I was cutting very
slowly too, so I doubt the feed rate was an issue.
I have only used 1/2" blades, except for the 3/8" green wood blade I have
on the saw now.
The bowing problem occurs with wood that has been drying for 50+ years as
well as fresh green logs. So I don't think it is an issue with the material
I am cutting.
Hmm... That's funny. I didn't remember complaining about the same problem
last year. But to answer your question, nope, still having issues getting
it setup correctly.
you will have to get it setup now
because of you try to sell it the buyer will go looking for answers
on how to adjust it and find all your posts
i agree with going back to stock setup and proceed from there making
only small changes then test and repeat if needed
Just a follow-up to my earlier post...
I dismantled the G0555 band saw and drilled out the holes for the
alignment pins. I think the original holes were 1/4", I oversized them to
3/8". This gave me a tiny bit of play to adjust the upper half of the
I put the saw back together and tightened the blade. Both wheels are
coplaner and the blade tracks in the center of both wheels.
I still needed the shims behind the lower wheel, so shifting the upper
half slightly didn't make a lot of difference.
Anyway, I adjusted the fence for the blade drift and resawed a couple of
small 2x8 boards with no difficulties. Nice and flat, no bowing in the
middle. So for now, with the current blade, the saw seems to be working
as it should.
Thanks for the followup.
I did the same to my delta years ago, when I told a group on lumberjocks
that I received a ton of flack telling me that doesn't work, and is
necessary. Amazing that people will tell you that it can't solve your
problem even though it did.
While I would like to upgrade to a better saw, it's not in my budget right
now. Besides, even I were to sell it I would let the buyer know any issues
I have had with it.
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