I've come into the possession of 14" bandsaw. I've installed and tured
new tires, adjusted the guides, ran a tuning stone on the blades. I have
about a 15 degree drift when I try to resaw a board. This drift is
present with a 1/2" and a 3/8" blade. Can anyone offer a solution?
Try more tension. Make sure it's riding on the wheels properly and
running square to the fence and miter slot.
I'd say a blade with proper tension, tooth set, and sharpening, which
is running square to the fence, should not drift anywhere near 15
degrees! Even a bad blade under reasonable tensions shouldn't be that
firstname.lastname@example.org chopping out the mortise.
BBS'ing since 1982 at 300 bps.
Surfing along at 19200 bps since 95.
WW'ing since 1985
LV Cust #4114
Nothing catchy to say, well maybe.....
WAKE UP - There are no GODs you fools!
Guess I'm very lucky. When I got my Grizzly G0555 last year, tried it with
the original POS 3/8" blade that came with it, lots of drift. Installed the
riser kit, put on a 3/4" 3TPI blade from Grizzly, and it resaws straight as
can be, perfectly parallel with fence/miter slot, never did have to adjust
for drift. I'm happy!
The only road to success is always under construction.
Sevaral things can cause "drift".
The "tire" on the bandsaw wheels have a slight crown to them.
Unless the blade rides centered on that "crown" the blade will
"drift" left or right of straight - left if the blade is foreward of
the crown, right if behind the crown (see the drawing on this page)
Another possible reason for "drift" is the teeth set - typically
one left, one right, ... But if some are set more to the left or to
the right they can "pull" the blade off line.
Yet another source could be that the upper wheel, which moves
to tension the blade, may be leaning. If the top is leaning fore
ward the blade will ride farther foreward of the tire crown
causing the blade to drift "left". If the lean is great enough
the blade will tend to wander off the wheel.
Then there's the blade guides that might be the culprit or at
least a co-conspirator. If you have bearings or "cool blocks"
on either side of the blade and they are mounted cocked a little
they can twist the blade slightly and cause drift/lead.
Now you could, and probably should, get all the alignments
right. BUT - if your fence angle can be adjusted to the drift/
lead angle you can make good straight cuts against it. Might
consider making a larger bolt on table top and fence like
this one - the idea from an article and illustrations in a
Open the doors over the wheels. Smoke a cigarette and stare at the
wheels from the side for a while, particularly the way the blade sits
on the wheel. Then stand in front of the saw and stare at the blade
at cutting level. Does the blade look like it's twisted to one side?
Move the guide bearings and blocks way back from the blade. Adjust
the saw blade forward or rearward on the wheels. Reset the guides
and bearings and see if that eliminates the drift.
Just did this on mine after I replaced the blade - now cuts straight.
You have to smoke that cigarette to get this right.
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