I have 2 problems with this saw:
1. Cutting a straight cut with the saws miter guage. After cutting a
board a few times and checking it with my square it is always way
off. The guage is perfectly square in the bandsaw.
2. I cannot resaw with this saw. I tried to cut a 1/4" slab and it was
I thought that maybe my bearings were defective so I thought maybe if
I splurge and buy the Carter guides I'll cure these problems. After
installing the new guides it didn't cure a thing, so $169.00 was for
naught. Yes all of my adjustments are dead on. I have a 3/8ths" blade
installed. I don't know if this could cause the problems or not and
YES the blade tension is set according to the tension scale on the
I would very much appreciate all of your comments and suggestions.
Especially, from those of you who have this Grizzly G0555 bandsaw.
"Properly" tuning mine, AND THEN switching to a TimberWolf blade
*eliminated* all drift on my G0555X.
See Mark Duginske's "Band Saw Book," or search the 'net for "proper
The TW blade, though, is ... simply night and day better.
I just don't understand what your trying to accomplish. Generaly if I
see your name in a thread I just skip it. I tend to me a lurker, and
I can find threads that are of value by looking at who is posting.
Lately you seem to be able to trash all of the threads. Congrats.
I have this saw, since last year. I tossed the blade that came with
it, and bought some from Rockler or somewhere. They seemed to work
fine. Just recently, I bought the 6 inch extension from Griz, and
have been sawing some juniper logs with a 3/4 inch 3tpi blade. I see
a little blade drift now and then, but not a problem. The other tools
in the shop fix that easily.
The miter is a little tacky, but does the job. If I need really
accurate cuts, I use the table saw, or by hand, Hope this helps.....
There's an article in Fine Woodworking #173, by Michael Fortune that
offers an alternative when dealing with blade drift. Fortune suggests
that if your cut is not parallel to the fence, adjust the tracking
adjustment for the top wheel. If the blade is not centered at the top
of the crown on the wheel, the blade becomes twisted at the table,
Check for correct alignment by cutting just enough into the stock that
it lines up with the back of the blade, and look for equal gaps from
the wood to the blade on both sides of the cut.
I've had good results with this.
What kind of blade are you using? Fortune suggests a 1/2" 3 TPI with
large gullets for general purpose use, including resawing. Don't
overtension, and don't force the blade into the wood, take it slow.
I said pretty much that same thing in a similar conversation we had here a
couple of months
ago. The tires on the drive wheels have a crown, and depending on where the
blade is riding
(centered on the crown, in front of it, or behind) the blade is likely to be
accordingly, thus contributing to "drift". Blades have their own
personalities so tracking is not the only factor, but it's a definite
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
I have the G0555 with the 6" riser. I bought the saw and installed a new
1/2" x 105" x 3 tpi blade, then tried to adjust for drift. Unfortunately,
no matter what I did, I couldn't get it to cut a straight line. I maxed
out the drift adjustments on the fence and still couldn't cut straight.
Resawing results were terrible, even trying to follow a line freehand. I
checked and rechecked my adjustments, but nothing helped. So, the saw was
mostly unusable and just sat parked in a corner.
Then, last month, I decided to try a new blade for it. Wow, what a
difference. I easily resawed a board to 1/4" thickness. I still haven't had
the time to adjust the fence for drift, but the blade was obviously the
culprit in my case.
So, even if you have a new blade, I recommend trying another one. It might
solve the problems you are experiencing.
Hmm... I had to dig through my old receipts to find out. :)
I bought the original blade direct from Grizzly (in 2007), an H8561 (105"
X 1/2" X .025" X 3 Pos Claw Blade). I just checked their web site and it
appears they no longer sell this blade.
The replacement was a Timber Wolf Bandsaw Blade 1/2" x 105", 4 TPI,
purchased from Woodcraft in Jan 2010.
Hope this helps.
Original-equipment blades are notoriously mediocre. Timber Wolf is a definite
step up. Next time, though, try an Olsen blade. I've found them to be better
than the Timber Wolf blades (stay sharp longer, and easier to get a straight
cut) -- and *much* cheaper. I don't remember who originally recommended Olsen
blades here, but whoever you are, my thanks.
My local Rockler store used to carry the Timberwolf line of bandsaw
blades. A number of years ago they stopped carrying the Timberwolf
blades in favor of the Olsen "All Pro". blades. I like the "All Pro"
blades as well.
On Saturday, February 27, 2010 at 11:06:05 AM UTC-8, Pete wrote:
I have the model you are dealing with. I've had mine a year and have a stac
k of paperwork dealing with problems ( broken castings; poor castings. I ha
ve yet to make saw dust. On the other hand, my brother-in-law has the next
model down and has never had a problem.
I chose the 0555lx because of the 1/8" blade for smaller scrolling jobs. Tr
acking has been a major issue.
Want to trade problems?
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