Grizzly G0555 Questions

I just received the Grizzly G0555 a week before Christmas and I have been fairly happy so far, but I have two questions for anyone that can help.

The first question is with the fence. It does not ride smoothly. Sometimes I need to use both hands to wiggle the fence over when adjusting it. I called Grizzly, and they said that it is normally a little tight, but what I was having sounded like a burr or something that didn't get filed off at the factory. All I found were two screw holes that had a little rough edge. I used a file to smooth them and it seemed to help, but just yesterday I noticed that it was starting to get worse. I did notice a groove being worn into the aluminum bar that attaches to the table. I'm going to call them again today, but wanted to know if anyone else has a similar problem, or if your fence slides smoothly.

The second question is with the cut produced. I have never owned or used a bandsaw before so I don't know what quality of cut it should produce. When I make a cut, I get a consistant wave That is about 1/10 of an inch high about every 1/3 of an inch. This is a normal feed rate, nothing slow or fast. It does change with the feed rate, so I'm wondering if it's the blade or something with the machine. I am still using the blade that came with the saw.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

Mike Arvay snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com

Reply to
Mike Arvay
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For the benefit of others, what exactly is a Grizzly G0555 ???????

Reply to
mike hide

There is a little plastic thing that you screw into the bottom of the fence, it's the only bit left over when you've finished building it and the manual doesn't mention it.

Reply to
damian penney

It's a bandsaw.

Reply to
damian penney

Regarding bandsaw blade: I will be fair and balance (FOX's fair and balance), some folks here will recommend Timberwolf blades sold by Suffolk:

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or from Lee Valley under the name "Viking", I believe they are the same.

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here will swear Timberwolf is the BEST. Respectfully I disagree, not only it is a terrible blade it is over price. Suffolk, replaced one blade and ask me not to throw it away as they may want back. I am still waiting for them to call me for their precious blade. The other two blades sitting on the shelve corroding and gathering sawdust.

I believe you should try Olson or Olsen "AllPro", I have not try them yet. Fine Woodworking rate them highly and they cost about the same as Timberwolf. I will be buy a few to try before spring.

Reply to
WD

I posted about this a week or so back. I think it's because you haven't adjusted the fence (or blade) to account for blade drift. If you cut freehand my guess is that the banding will disappear. Draw a straight line on some scrap and follow that line without the fence. The angle you need to feed the stock into the blade to follow that line is your drift angle, you can either tweak your fence to match that angle, or adjust the tracking (knob on upper wheel) of the blade so that it cuts straight. Fine Woodworking recommends the latter method in last months bandsaw tuning guide.

Reply to
damian penney

Ultimate or penultimate sumthing or another...

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Reply to
patrick conroy

"damian penney" wrote in news:1105385325.783685.45920 @c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

I did notice that knob that was left over, and I did screw it into the bottom of the fence. It shows it in the exploded view, but like you said the manual has no mention of it in the assembly.

But now, thinking about it, it may be screwed in too far, causing the fence to dig into the bar. I'll try to adjust it and see if it helps out.

Thanks.

Oh, and Yes the G0555 is the Grizzly Ultimate 14" Bandsaw.

Reply to
Mike Arvay

I'm finding more and more manuals that are poorly written, perhaps a translation from Chinese or other. An exploded view would be nice, and understood by all. Poorly written manuals are much more common than 20 years ago.

Reply to
Phisherman

I agree with first tracking the blade to the center of the wheel. There should be minimal drift if this is done in conjuction with proper tensioning. Then, I would go with the first suggestion made here.

Don

Reply to
D. J. Dorn

Drift isn't from mis-tracking, its from mis-set teeth on the blade. That's why the drift angle is different on each blade, and why better blades seem to have less drift.

The guide blocks/bearings will straighten out the blade even if you are mistracking it.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Richmond - MD6-FDC ~

GET ANOTHER BLADE! The blade that came with mine had a tremendous amount of "lead". Switched to a different blade, cuts just dandy(still some roughness to the cut, but you're not using a cabinet saw and WWII blade). FWIW, when I assembled mine, I put the fence rail in the wrong holes(bottom ones) and couldn't even get the fence on. Only complaint now is that the locking lever for the fence needs a little grease on the camming surface so it will engage easier.

Reply to
Norman D. Crow

Sorry, can't go along with that. While I agree that set is a factor, improper tensioning along with poor tracking causes far more tension on one side of the blade only inviting the other to "wobble".

Don

"Chris Richmond - MD6-FDC ~" wrote in message news:crv832$vg2$ snipped-for-privacy@news01.intel.com...

Reply to
D. J. Dorn

I was getting awful cuts until I adjusted the (original) blade to remove any lead. The method in last months Fine Woodworking works great. Set the fence parallel to the mitre slot and then adjust the lead of the blade by adjusting where the blade rides on the wheel via the centering knob. Works like a charm.

Reply to
damian penney

Wax the parts that meet. I've done that on my G0555 and table saw fence. Works well on both.

Dave

Reply to
Cox West

Mike Arvay wrote in news:Xns95DA82977A943none@24.93.43.121:

Nothing like that here. It slides smoothly as long as the fence locking lever is released. A bit of wax helps. Certainly there are no grooves being worn into the fence travel bar.

Yep, it's probably something with the blade ... likely a bad weld or a kink. The fact that the ridge spacing changes with the feed rate is a good indicator. The factory blades that come with that saw are not very good -- most any other blade you get (Timberwolf, Olson, etc etc) will be an upgrade.

You may also be hearing a kind of click or thunk when the blade's turning, as that spot on the blade hits the guide bearings. I bet if you slowly turn the upper wheel (unplugged, of course), you'll hear the click as the blade defect moves through the guide bearings.

Reply to
Nate Perkins

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