Resawing on a Ridgid 14" Band Saw

[Dusty Workshop]

I have just purchased a Rigid 14" band saw. I intend to use the saw for resawing 6" stock, btoh from precut lumber and from timbers. I plan to use tha saw as is, with no after factory upgrades. I was wondering if someone who has used this saw could recommend the best resawing jig. I have found plans for a small one such as this:

also plans for a sled such as this:

finally an upright fence such as this:

would like to know which option would work best for my saw. Thanks for the advise.

Dusty Workshop Dusty [e-mail]

[Greg G.]

Considering the nature of the jigs - pretty much made from scrap - I would say try one and see if it works for you. Different blades, set-ups, techniques, and woods all affect resawing. I use a Delta 14" and a WoodSlicer 1/2" blade with a 5" tall MDF solid fence, set at the drift angle, and it works for me. Testing your setup with scrap is necessary before attempting to cut that high dollar stock! FWIW,

Greg G.

[B a r r y B u r k e J r .]

I have the best results with a simple, shop built rounded post.

You can adjust for drift as you feed the stock, and it's cheap and easy to make. Check out the AW link you posted. Look at the half-round piece next to the blade. That's really all you need, along with some support behind it.

Barry

[George]

Pivot fence works best for me. Don't need support except next to the blade. What I find more important is the use of hands. Left hand clumsy here, so I fence to the right of the blade. Clumsy presses, adroit guides the piece. Duginskie book, which you should buy anyway, show it.

If you have any non-flat surfaces, a sled is the answer. Far fewer surprises and kinked blades - DAMHIKT.

[Alan W]

Just starting to resaw here as well. Using a Timberwolf 3/4" 4 TPI resaw blade. Tried a single point resaw fence, but found I tended to wander too much with it. So I made a long tall fence out of melamine that I can clamp to the table and adjust for drift (blade angle).

If there is much angle in my current setup, I cannot see it. A fine adjustment on the fence would be nice to get the exact center of the board if you are trying to split it down the middle.

The plus side of the longer fence is you can use it on your Oribital Spindle sander as a thinknesser of smaller boards.

[Test Tickle]

I have the same saw with a riser block. The blade is the most important thing, and the Highland Hardware 1/2" Woodslicer is the best that you can get for this machine. I find the point fence is best if I'm simply cutting thick stock in half, but if I'm making many peices of veneer thickness, a longer and tall fence works better. Neither one has to be fancy.

tt

[charlie b]

The URL for the American Woodworker resawing article keeps moving, making it difficult to link to from a web page.

Here's the start of the version I built based on that article. It works quite well - the last photo on this page should support my opinion.

The articles diagrams for the resaw fence and the new table top to support it had some holes in them when you actaully tried to make them. I put together some stuff for myself and thought they might be useful for others - perhaps for you. (all one line so watch the line wrap)

If you have questions about the one I built feel free to e-mail them to me and I'll fill in any gaps you find.

charlie b

[Bill Hinshaw]

I certainly second the kudos from tt for the 1/2" Woodslicer from Highlands Hardware. I was having more than grief with any other blade I tried for resawing 6" maple, but with this blade cranked up tight, I barely need a fence at all. A simple pivot point is more than enough. Don't pass up a trial of this one.

Bill