I have been fruitlessly searching the net and forums looking for reviews on
the Powermatic PM 3000 14: TS, 1 Phase 5HP. I have an opportunity to upgrade
from my DeWalt 746x for a rather small investment (less than the cost of a
I am looking for anyone that has owns or has any experience with this saw
and have formed some sort of opinion on it. It is a current model, so some
one must be buying them......
I would not expect to find much in the way of reviews on this unit. It
is clearly and industrial grade beauty so you won't see many of us
retail type folks having one or having hope of every getting one, so
even the typical mags wouldn't review it.
That being said, I have my 50 year old PM 65 TS and it still runs like
a champ. Honestly, if you can get this for less than the $5k or so
asking price I don't see how you could go wrong. Just make sure you
have the juice to spin it and can afford and find the blades you'll
want to use.
I'd agree w/ same sentiments (other than my Model 66 is only 30+ instead
of 50 :) ).
Not every blade has to be 14-incher, though; you can have smaller ones
rebored for ordinary work (although probably will require 12" anyway;
although obviously not seen this beastie up close I'd guess trunnions
are too beefy to allow much useful height w/ 10" blade).
Similarly, 10" for a 12" saw work reasonably well for most work at
somewhat lower initial cost (altho that's not as great a differential
any longer as it used to be it seems to me w/o having done any actual
I've always wondered, is there any other reason other than the thickness of
the wood to get a saw with a blade that diameter? If you're cutting 3/4"
plywood, some 2x4's or maybe the occasional 4x4 all day long, does one
really need a blade of that diameter? Aside from one having more teeth than
say a 10" blade necessitating less blade sharpenings, what would you need a
14" blade for?
Also, do standard 14" blades generally come in 1/8" widths like the 10"
blades? I'm guessing that blade stiffeners would be much more the order of
the day for 14" blades compared to 10" models.
A 14" saw???? <VBG>
In general, above is true--the primary advantage imo is you have the
capacity for the times you need it. Whether it's worth the extra
upfront cost is all dependent on circumstance. The one advantage that
doesn't go away is the extra heft and the larger table is something one
learns to appreciate if use one for a while.
They're somewhat thicker--9/64" kerf was pretty standard on the blades
we had in the shop in VA--about the same as those for the miter saw. I
(think at least all common?) miter saws use 5/8" arbors; TS/RAS (US) use
1" typical. The 16" blades on the OSC RAS here are also 1" arbor but
probably nearly 5/32" or thereabouts kerf if had to guess w/o
measuring--but I've got a very rough-cut low-tooth-count blade on it for
rough stock preparation/sizing.
Never felt need for stiffeners in VA -- that shop was set up ages ago
during the high wood-platform womens' shoe era to make the platforms
primarily for Craddock-Terry shoe company in Lynchburg. It was 3" maple
mostly rip to width w/ power-feeders. Then a ganged crosscut operation
and a group of automated multi-spindle shapers. In heyday years ran
about 40K bd-ft thru the shop. I think Craddock-Terry closed US
manufacturing 20 years ago or more, though...
I suppose if one were instead trying to do finish glueline ripping a
straightener might be of use, but never had that as an operation
objective meself... :)
I hate to be a party-pooper but you might give thought to a few
- Is this a home shop? This is a heck of an upgrade from the DeWalt.
- Cost and availability of blades. I'm sure you can get them but I
suspect they are made in much smaller production quantities ---$$$$!
- Your intended use. The bigger blades are not necessarily noted for
being as clean and accurate as smaller. Some woodworkers have been
know to put thin-kerf 8" blades on their 10" machines to achieve fine
Big investment in a cool machine but be sure you are going to be happy
with it. The 10" PM might be a better choice.
I searched on the blades and found them to be available and not much of a
premium to a 10. I was thinking about the PM 2000, but this one came along
several hundred less, and having the space thought it would be a fairly good
long term investment. I figured the extra HP could not hurt when ripping
rough materials and figured I would only pick up a couple of blades.
Recently picked up a 12" Rockwell with a 5/8" arbor that I was going to set
up just for dado's, eliminating the need to a dado on the new saw.
The biggest thing was the price, I was assuming that I would be spending at
least the 2k for whatever I was looking at and probably closer to 3k since I
was looking at the unisaw, pm2000 or the sawstop. Cruising eBay this one
jumped out at me....
It should be here by Friday, I figured that even if I did not like it, I
should have no problem getting the money back by unloading it
These are the same guys I got my new Jet 52" Microglide fence for $45
+ shipping. It was a welcome upgrade to the 50 year old cast iron
fence system and only required a minor modification to get it bolted
up. I am loving it.
I saw that auction, and was tempted to give that a try as an upgrade and
call it a day. The last time I inquired to Delta I about a Biesemeyer fence,
it would have take a lot of modification to make it work......so I went for
I've been wishing for fence upgrade for my old Model 66 for 20 years, too...
I saw an auction from these guys that had a fence but no indication of
rails and looks like needs the square or angle rail instead of the old
Sent a question asking but wasn't responded to (which doesn't give me
all that warm a feeling about 'em)... :(
Did yours include rail for that and is there a product number? I'd do
it for anything approaching that...
Yes, mine had rails and indicated they were included. I had seen these
same guys selling just the fence before also so I would make very
Keep in mind the Jet MicroGlide looks a lot better than it feels, to
be honest. It is an improvement over my ol PM fence but not as nice as
a Bessy or Uni. It does seem to lock parallel consistently which is
most important. However, the locking mechanism where it kind of
pinches the head against a lip in the rail seems kind of flaky. It is
easy to think it is locked but it isn't and it never really "snaps"
into locked position but now that I am used to it I get it to lock
solid everytime. It just takes some care. But for the price it is a
good solution for me.
OK, thanks SP for both the heads up on the rails and the evaluation.
The only real complaint I have w/ the original is that it isn't
absolutely perpendicular; for some reason they formed a very slight
taper into both sides. Whether that was for some reason I don't and
never did understand. It makes the vertical operations a pita and any
jig fastened to the fence needs to be shimmed to be vertical which is a
_real_pita_... :( It's still the only thing I dislike about the saw
after nearly 30 years.
So, I passed on that one; the fence alone was higher than what you gave
before the last minute bidding-bot madness, even. I didn't bother to go
look at what it closed at.
Just for the knowledge of continuing to look, would one be able to make
a rail set from Al angle stock or are they a special-formed rail?
(Since I returned to KS I've not seen a new piece of w-working gear so
no data on what the Jet configuration really is.)
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