Speedfit technique

Hi all. I have cut some notches in joists to accommodate the 22mm pipe runs. When it come to positioning the 22mm-22mm-10mm Tees, should I keep them close to the joist or can I just position them halfway between the joists?
Also, is it easy or difficult to bend 22mm by hand within a gap between joists of about 12 inches?
Thanks.
Arthur
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On Tue, 9 Nov 2004 23:04:06 +0000 (UTC), "Arthur"

It's a good idea to leave some spacing (say minimum of 10mm) to allow for the 22mm pipe to expand and contract without the risk of the fittings coming right up to the joist.
Other than that, if you are bringing the 10mm pipe along parallel to the joists, then it may make sense to have the fitting positioned to allow the pipe to be clipped to the joist without having to put too big a set of bends in the 10mm.

What kind of bend? if it's 90 degrees, a bend in a 300mm radius is reasonably easy. If you want to go tighter, then you get metal formers which clip onto the pipe and hold it in place.
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.andy

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wrote:

the
Oh my God. Yiou have got to be joking? Mmmm, no he isn't.
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The 22mm pipe is perpendicular to the joists........
Based on your exploits with incorrect bodged installation methods of plastic plumbing, you are hardly in a position to comment, are you?
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.andy

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wrote:

between
You clearly are a bodger by what you describe. Tsk, tsk.
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If the fittings are placed tightly to the joists then there may be insufficient provision for expansion and contraction and therefore a potential straining of the joints. Undulation in the pipe may provide enough expansion capability but care does need to be taken to ensure that there is provision for thermal effects.
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.andy

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No need to bother with expansion space if you've made the joints with a hacksaw - they'll leak anyway...
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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wrote:

runs.
allow
Plastic joints should be well clipped either side to avoid strain on the joint.
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In fact they should be clipped in a way to allow longitudinal movement for thermal expansion. For 22mm tube, support is only required for horizontal runs every 0.5m anyway and the OP has a space of 300mm.
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.andy

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They should be clipped either side of the joint which will not restrict thermal expansion.
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IMM wrote:

If the pipe is being threaded through holes in joists then there is no need to clip it at all - the joists will support it.
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John.

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Read the thread again.
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And laugh once more at the incredible fuckwitted hacksaw wielding man.
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temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
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How would you propose to do that when the 22mm pipe is running perpendicular to the joists? Where would you suggest fitting these clips? I haven't found any manufacturer who suggests that clips are needed in the context you suggest
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.andy

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the
Firstly, Speedfit is crap, use Marley Equator or Osma Gold. Secondly put the tee near the joist, well clipped
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you must be *THE* IMM!
you really exist! i thought people were winding me up when they told me about a loon that insists on using a hacksaw with speedfit fittings.
how are you? caused any more disasters recently?
shokka
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acll?
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treble
hwat they

u really are completely potty, aren't you?. go back to youre play doh and crayons, theirs a good chap.
shokka
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wrote:

Wow all that from man with a name like Shokka. Gosh.
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the
The 10mm pipe needs to be fixed to the joists? If they don't, then I don't think it matters where they are under the floor. But if you want to fix them to the joists, then the closer the better for a neater job.
Bending pipe should always be done with a proper internal spring insert or an external bending form. Trying to bend anything larger than 12mm soft copper by hand is a real no, no. If you already have a bending spring there is nothing stopping you from forming a bend around your knee or over a piece of wood.
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