The cracking has a lot to do with selection. Natural fissures occur,
but can be found ahead of use.
Chip? Well, that takes a bit too. Something that chips granite, will
likely damage/pit cast iron as well.
It will out-wear cast iron by a long shot too. That stuff takes
diamonds to machine.
Used two part epoxy to glue the wood "backsplash" on this 'kitchen desk'
A month later someone apparently hit it with enough of a 'shear' force to
knock it loose and chip the granite, leaving 1/4" deep pits where the glue
had been applied. The granite chips were still neatly bonded to the wood and
the wood was not damaged, so it certainly appears that the epoxy indeed
weakened the granite?
Decided I didn't want to repeat the process, so I drilled 1/4" holes through
the granite and ply substrate under each foot, applied some construction
adhesive, and ran a wood screw into the wooden feet from underneath. I
figured a mechanical fastener would hopefully preclude a future service
call, and there have been no reported problems since (now that that was said
out loud, just watch the phone ring tomorrow!).
The question: what would *you* have used as an adhesive in the first place
if forced into a similar situation?
I doubt the epoxy penetrated the stone surface by 1/4" and compromised the
material. What likely happened is the material directly under the adhesive
spots failed in direct shear, as concrete would in similar circumstance. I
would expect to find 45 degree cones under the spots of adhesive.
Depends on edge distance. The expected failure mode is still direct shear,
this time from the bored hole to the edge. The backsplash likely will now
It isn't a matter of which adhesive. The epoxy held. The failure was in the
substrate, the granite. Approach the problem as though the desktop were high
strength concrete. How many anchors, how deep, how far from the edge, would
you use if it were concrete?
Like you, my first impulse would have been epoxy; however, on 2nd
thought, the epoxy cured and provided a connection which transmitted
the impact to the granite, resulting in failure.
A good adhesive such as Sikaflex 291 or 3M 5200 would provide a good
bond while absorbing enough of the impact energy to avoid granite
IMHO, mechanical fasteners should be avoided.
If you do use them, make sure holes in granite have clearance to
BTW, the epoxy didn't attack the granite, it was simply stronger in an
No rust is another benefit. Ease of assembly of extensions is another.
Much lower vibration overall is a prime benefit.
This is a good saw made better by the extra mass. On the one here, the
extension wings weighed 54 pounds each, compared to the Jet's cast
iron 40 pounders.
I have a Delta contractor saw with stock pulleys and belt. Except
immediately after sitting unused for long periods, it starts up fast and
smooth. The nickel doesn't fall down until well into its wind down after
powering off. It probably helps that it's running on 220V. Start up is close
Great, I had a Craftsman iron top that passed the nickel test, but IMHO the
nickel test is a starting point indicator that you are headed in the right
direction in dampening vibration. My cabinet saw passes the nickel test
with less movement than the old saw and I get better results with this saw
over the Craftsman. The less vibration you have the better the cuts, all
things being equal.
It certainly looks like a fine saw. The granite top makes a whole lot
of sense, although I worry a bit about the t-track.
But a properly selected slab of granite is some tough. Any wee pits
and chips are easily filled and levelled.
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