Need a new TS rip blade.

[jtpr]

I have been using a Freud, forget which one exactly. Anyway I've had it for too many years and want a new one. I have a Woodcraft near me as well as a HD and Lowes. I need to pick it up before the weekend. Has anybody used the RIDGID 10 In. x 90 Tooth Ultimate Polished Finish Saw Blade?

then that it seems that Woodcraft is my best bet. I am looking at something in the $75 range, so the Forrest is a bit pricey for me. I liked the look of this one:

opinions?

-Jim

[Robatoy]

Yup, great value. In a proper table saw, you won't need a jointer.

[jtpr]

Wow, that was quick. Which one are you referring to?

Jim

[Robatoy]

The Freud Glueline Rip. Ripping is a whole different blade issue and only ripping blades rip. Combo blades make a poor second choice.

[Robatoy]

That Ridgid blade you linked to won't rip... it will just burn....well you probably will get through some wood..but.

[jtpr]

Thank you. Tell me, what is the difference between a "glue line" rip blade and just a rip blade? Just the quality of the cut? And what happens if you just leave this in your saw and do occasional cross cuts with it. I mean I generally use my Mitre saw for that but when I do fine mitre cuts on boxes and things I like to use the table saw.

I appreciate the quick input.

-Jim

[Robatoy]

Of course a rip blade will cross cut, but the finish will suck and tear-out a real problem. It is also hard on the blade.

My hunch would be that a ripping blade is a lot better at cross cutting than a finishing/crosscutting blade would be at ripping. Makita included, what looked like, a combination blade with the LS1013 SCMS. That ended up in my table saw and was pretty good at doing every- day work. Surprisingly good considering there were no raker teeth.

[Swingman]

"GlueLine Rip" is simply a marketing term and has no technical reference merit.

That said, I own a Freud "GlueLine Rip", but a regular kerf, and it does everything its marketing term suggests.

An excellent ripping blade for the price.

It will do crosscuts, but slower and not optimum cuts. If you're serious about woodworking you really need to use the right tool for the job.

On that same note, unless you're just seriously underpowered on your table saw, I feel a thicker blade makes for a more stable blade, with less vibration, and particularly when ripping hardwoods, so I forego the thin kerf variety when ripping for my own use.

As always, YMMV ...

[SonomaProducts.com]

I do like Freud. I wanted to love the thin kerf Glu-Line rip LM75. First one I got left bad cut lines and I figured it had one or two badly sharpened teeth. I took it back for a refund but they said try another. It did the same thing. I went back to the standard rip thin kerf LU87 and love it.

[jtpr]

I have Rigid 3650, so not really underpowered (for what I do), but not a 3hp either.

I agree with the right tool statement. But if I'm doing a one-off project with a few crosscuts, some mitre's and rips, do you really change your blade each time? However, if I was doing something where I could do all the cross cuts first, then the rips I could see it.

Maybe I need a second table saw...;+}

-Jim

[Lew Hodgett]

I have Rigid 3650, so not really underpowered (for what I do), but not a 3hp either.

I agree with the right tool statement. But if I'm doing a one-off project with a few crosscuts, some mitre's and rips, do you really change your blade each time? However, if I was doing something where I could do all the cross cuts first, then the rips I could see it.

------------------------ I like the standard kerf, 24T, Freud for ripping.

Do all the rips first when prepping stock, then blade change won't be a PITA.

Lew

[Puckdropper]

jtpr wrote in news: [e-mail]:

I'm running a Freud Diablo blade in mine. It's a good blade and gives me smooth cuts in plywood and most everything else. It's a step up from the Irwin Marathon blade I was running in there (not a bad blade, but definately lower quality).

Make sure your second table saw is the same height as the first so it can be used as an outfeed table. ;-)

The only time I change my saw blade is to put the dado stack on. I've got two good saw blades, and two saws to run them in. The TS has the 60T "combination" blade, while the CMS has the cross cut blade.

Puckdropper

[SonomaProducts.com]

=A0It's a good blade and gives me

The glue in plywood dulls blades real fast. I keep a fresh big box blade around for all my unimportant ply cuts.

[SonomaProducts.com]

, do you really

I try to plan for doing things in order so I can use the appropriate blade but on any project I am looking for quality I always change to the cross cut for cross and miter cuts. It is more than just the smooth finish, you also get less chipping with a slower paced push.

[Swingman]

The point is ... if I'm going to leave a blade on the saw for one-off's like your above, it would not be a rip blade, it would be a combination blade like the Forrest WWII.

Well, that's something we could all shoot for ... my second "table saw" is Festool TS-75 :)

[Morgans]

"Swingman" wrote

And the less teeth, the better, for underpowered ripping, or wet stock.

[Max]

"jtpr" wrote

I have Rigid 3650, so not really underpowered (for what I do), but not a 3hp either.

I agree with the right tool statement. But if I'm doing a one-off project with a few crosscuts, some mitre's and rips, do you really change your blade each time? However, if I was doing something where I could do all the cross cuts first, then the rips I could see it.

Maybe I need a second table saw...;+}

-Jim

Naw, You need a table saw for rips and a radial arm saw for crosscuts and a miter saw for miters. [:-) I use the Freud LM74R010 blade on the table saw, the Freud P410 on the radial and the Freud LU91012 on the compound miter.

But I have used the P410 for ripping and it does a good job. It's a very good *combination* blade.

Max

[Father Haskell]

My Freud thin kerf rip goes through hard maple like a hot knife through butter, but it tends to lead, enough that the surface needs truing up with my ever-handy #5. For a real glue joint quality blade, you need a standard kerf.

[SonomaProducts.com]

" I have seen and heard ..."

I am not citing anicdotal evidence. I am citing the closest thing to a labratory experiment available, the FWW labs. They tested thin kerf alongside full size and found NO evidence of "wobble" or deflection, even specifically on shaving cuts where one side of the blade is unsupported.

But no one is stopping you from buying extra metal amd making extra sawdust and wearing our your saw motor extra early and burning rips when you bog your saw, etc. etc.

[Larry Jaques]

If any of you can't make a decent glueup of two relatively flat/dry boards cut on any moderately tuned-up saw and any relatively new carbide blade, something is wrong with -your- setup or -your- technique, not the saw or blade. Hell, even Crapsman can get that right.

-- We're all here because we're not all there.