My blade is a 10" Amana 80-tooth, thin kerf, trim blade.
For reasons I won't embarrassingly reveal, the blade now has about 25 thou runout about 1" inside the OD.
1) Have you ever had a blade straightened?
2) Can this blade be straightened to acceptable specs?
3) If so, is it worth it? A new replacement Amana blade is around $125.
I know there are cheaper, alternative blade choices, but I'd like to stick with the setup I now have.
DON'T send it to Forrest! I had a similar issue with one of their blades. They had absolutely
no clue how to fix the runout -- after sending it back *twice* it was still no better.
I eventually sent the same blade to Ridge Carbide and they fixed it on the first shot. I'm
done with Forrest.
Sorry, I did not see this.
No, the last one I sent to Forrest about a year and a half ago didn't
really cut any better when I got it back, than it did before I sent it.
The new Forrest I purchased, about 18 months ago, will probably be my
last. Have two now that need sharpening and was going to look locally,
or might try Ridge Carbide.
Freud dial-a-width dado stack and the Freud glue-line rip have stood me
well, so I will probably buy a Freud combo next time.
Think that I've mentioned before my "success" with the Freud 10" rip blade.
Had to rip down some 16' 2x10's and I swear the cut edge looked and felt
as if it had been run through a jointer. Smooth as a baby's butt!
The strangest part was that I did it with my ca 1970 Craftsman RAS.
Still have the blade and it cuts just as nice in my Jet cabinet saw.
One of these days I'll need to get it sharpened but for the time being
I still admit that I don't use a rip blade. I know in theory that they
should to a better job but no one has ever described better results than I
get with mi WWII. The only your I don't get great rip results is then the
board is not perfectly straight and or the board warps during the cut. I
don't think a rip blade will improve on that. Am I wrong?
No, I don't think that you are. Technology and design are constantly
I don't think that the WWII was around in 1984(?) when I bought that
Freud blade. I now have the WWII and it rips fine, but not, I don't
think, as well as the Freud.
Bottom line, I think, is to buy a top quality blade designed for the
job. The WWII is a well designed combo blade and therein lies its success.
Using both types of blades, I do see/feel a difference, otherwise
(hating "change" as I do (even changing blades)) I wouldn't bother. :)
Seriously, where I do see/feel the difference is when cutting thick 8/4+
hardwood stock for table legs and chair parts, and have done a ton of both.
Also find I have less burn when cutting thicker hard maple, which I use
a lot of, with my Freud Glue-Line rip.
Got it. And that explains why I don't see the difference. I do have a
Systematic rip blade but hardly ever use it, it has yet to be put on the
SS. I don't often cut much thicker than 1".
I wonder if Rockler or Woodcraft have a sharpening service that they
recommend. IIRC both offer this service through a third party.
And here is hoping that my WWII came back good, I got it back 3~4 months
ago and will probably not pull the protective coating off until I send
the current one in to be sharpened.
Years ago, going back to about 1988 I used MVP sharpeners. They were on
Post Oak in Meyerland and probably 10~12 years ago moved to across Sam
Houston Tollway from Hardwood Products. I was never impressed with
their service after they moved, the son took over the fathers business.
I'm not sure they are even still in business. The last time I used
them the blade came back, I did a test cut, and immediately sent it to
I pretty much don't try to diagnose when I send to Forrest. I simply
ask to have the blade brought back to factory specs, call me if the
repair will be more than $50. Hopefully my last sharpening by them will
I don't have a WWII so I can't say. I think the larger gullets help you
cut more quickly and will less binding and that's the appeal of a rip
blade. Freud took it a step further and included teeth with a
grind that *also* produces a very smooth cut.
The WWII is supposed to be the best blade on earth, so perhaps you won't
see a vast improvement. But for those who were using inferior blades,
the difference is just that: vast.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I think you are right and this may absolutely make a big difference on
thicker boards and or underpowered saws. If I fear burning I raise the
blade so that there is more blade body than teeth in the kerf.
FWIW with good flat straight stock that remains that way after cutting I
typically get just shy of a burnished edge when ripping 3/4" and thinner
stock. The cross cuts are burnished when cutting hard woods like white
My biggest question is "what am I missing" not using a rip blade. And
as Swingman pointed out not much, when cutting 1" and thinner and or
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