I am thinking about getting the new Woodworker II blade that just came out.
I heard they have a demo setup at the St. Louis show and was planning on
getting it there. I thought you could get a discount at the show, but I
heard the price at the show is about 5 dollars higher there than it is with
S&H on the web. They want $120 plus sales tax at the show. I was of the
impression that if you buy something at a show one could get a discount on
the purchase, but I guess that isn't true. My question is this blade a
top-of-the-line blade or is there some better out there?
Thanks for your help.
There are a lot of WW2 blades that Forest makes. I think I viewed at
least ten 10" blades I could use. Lots of people like their Forest
blades. My Delta blade amazed me with the quality of cuts yesterday.
That blade must be 15-20 years old. Granted I have not used it much
but it left burn free edges when properly fed.
Some folks maintain that the "best" blade in the world wil perform
poorly on a miss- ligned saw. A mediocre blade on a well aligned saw
could outperform the "best."
I'm a little puzzled by "new Woodworker II blade that just came out".
There's no announcement of a new blade on the Forrest site and that
blade has been on the market since at least 1992.
If you're just talking about the regular 10 inch 40 tooth 1/8 inch
kerf Woodworker II, Coastal Tool <http://www.coastaltool.com has it
for 95 bucks and shipping.
It's certainy a top of the line blade, many consider it to be _the_
top of the line blade.
I went ahead and bought the blade this afternoon. The label on the carton
Woodworker II 10" 40 teeth 5/8 Hole
Alternate Top Bevel/Raker .125 Kerf #6 O.D.
Catalog No. WW10406125 Serial 503828
Special #6 OD Top Grind
I am very much interested in your advice and opinions of their blades. I
have only been in Woodworking less than a year and still learning a lot.
Had to get a part time job to support the hobby. Thanks for your help.
They also had the old style for $79.99 at the WW show. What I got is their
latest model out. The one I got is the advanced model.
Also, They told me the thin kerf model is only for low horse power saw
models. I have a Grizzly G0444Z and they said not to use a thin kerf blade
on ts's over 2 hp.
Again, my model saw is WW10406125. Check it out on the WWII site.
Wow! Thanks for that lead. Anytime I can get a WWII for $79.00
including shipping and taxes I will grab it. I have never gotten one
that cheap, even at a WW show. I just put in my order. Just hope
Amazon does not screw it up as they did last time.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:19:40 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I see you already bought one so this is sort of moot, but I'll add my
thoughts anyway. When I was first made aware of the WW blades they
were over $100 when that was real money. I couldn't justify that and
somehow wound up with a Freud LU-something or other--they have the
goofiest, non-sequitir numbers for their blades. At the time it was a
little over half the price. I believe the price spread is a little
Now, I have bought maybe a half dozen Freud blades over the years, and
they have yet to disappoint. It's hard for me to believe that the
Forrest is worth twice as much (or 30% more nowadays). It has yet to
be demonstrated to me that it is. So, I'll continue to go for the
That said, I've never heard anyone complain about a Forrest blade,
which is worth something.
Incidentally, I have never used a thin kerf blade, even on an
underpowered, light duty saw (old Craftsman). I think they cause more
problems than they solve.
And I've used the thin kerf Freud blades (as you say, LU something or other)
for years and never had a problem.
But I don't do production runs where the blade is in constant use for hours -
if I did I'd use a regular kerf blade.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:30:34 -0800, Larry Blanchard
Actually, aren't all their thin kerf blades TK something or other?
The problems to which I refer aren't really related to production vs
non-production. I just feel they are more prone to vibration (although
it may be just the teeth that are narrower--not the plate), they may
need stabilizer/stiffeners which can affect depth of cut, and they
certainly throw off every calculation that depends on a .125" kerf.
When I saw the demo at the woodworking show by me, the guy stated that you need
to use a blade stiffener with the blade. A 10" blade would need a 5"
stiffener. Anyone use the blade without the stiffener?
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