What is the best TS blade out there?

[Will]

I am thinking about getting the new Woodworker II blade that just came out. I heard they have a demo setup at the St. Louis show and was planning on getting it there. I thought you could get a discount at the show, but I heard the price at the show is about 5 dollars higher there than it is with S&H on the web. They want $120 plus sales tax at the show. I was of the impression that if you buy something at a show one could get a discount on the purchase, but I guess that isn't true. My question is this blade a top-of-the-line blade or is there some better out there? Thanks for your help.

[Jim Behning]

There are a lot of WW2 blades that Forest makes. I think I viewed at least ten 10" blades I could use. Lots of people like their Forest blades. My Delta blade amazed me with the quality of cuts yesterday. That blade must be 15-20 years old. Granted I have not used it much but it left burn free edges when properly fed.

Some folks maintain that the "best" blade in the world wil perform poorly on a miss- ligned saw. A mediocre blade on a well aligned saw could outperform the "best."

[J. Clarke]

I'm a little puzzled by "new Woodworker II blade that just came out". There's no announcement of a new blade on the Forrest site and that blade has been on the market since at least 1992.

If you're just talking about the regular 10 inch 40 tooth 1/8 inch kerf Woodworker II, Coastal Tool has it for 95 bucks and shipping.

It's certainy a top of the line blade, many consider it to be _the_ top of the line blade.

[Greg O]

Many people bash Delta blades, but the one that came with my Delta contractors saw has served me well. Nice smooth cuts. I have a Freud blade I use too, but the Delta blade is usually in the TS. Greg

[Will]

I went ahead and bought the blade this afternoon. The label on the carton says: Woodworker II 10" 40 teeth 5/8 Hole Alternate Top Bevel/Raker .125 Kerf #6 O.D. Catalog No. WW10406125 Serial 503828 Special #6 OD Top Grind

I am very much interested in your advice and opinions of their blades. I have only been in Woodworking less than a year and still learning a lot. Had to get a part time job to support the hobby. Thanks for your help.

[ebecker]

Amazon shows it at 79.99 including shipping.

[J. Clarke]

Do you have a link for that? The closest I see is the thin-kerf version for 89.99.

[Will]

They also had the old style for $79.99 at the WW show. What I got is their latest model out. The one I got is the advanced model. Also, They told me the thin kerf model is only for low horse power saw models. I have a Grizzly G0444Z and they said not to use a thin kerf blade on ts's over 2 hp. Again, my model saw is WW10406125. Check it out on the WWII site.

[Joe Bleau]

I have always sworn by Forrest blades but lately I have been hearing about others that outperform the WWII. I opened this thread hoping to find some input on these new blades.

Joe

[wolf28]

ridge carbide makes a good blade.

[ebecker]

for the 20% off code in the middle of the page.

[Markgee33]

SNIP

It's gone up since last week. I ordered one for $71.99 shipped on this same promo!

[LRod]

I see you already bought one so this is sort of moot, but I'll add my thoughts anyway. When I was first made aware of the WW blades they were over $100 when that was real money. I couldn't justify that and somehow wound up with a Freud LU-something or other--they have the goofiest, non-sequitir numbers for their blades. At the time it was a little over half the price. I believe the price spread is a little smaller nowadays.

Now, I have bought maybe a half dozen Freud blades over the years, and they have yet to disappoint. It's hard for me to believe that the Forrest is worth twice as much (or 30% more nowadays). It has yet to be demonstrated to me that it is. So, I'll continue to go for the value.

That said, I've never heard anyone complain about a Forrest blade, which is worth something.

Incidentally, I have never used a thin kerf blade, even on an underpowered, light duty saw (old Craftsman). I think they cause more problems than they solve.

[Larry Blanchard]

And I've used the thin kerf Freud blades (as you say, LU something or other) for years and never had a problem.

But I don't do production runs where the blade is in constant use for hours - if I did I'd use a regular kerf blade.

[Joe Bleau]

Wow! Thanks for that lead. Anytime I can get a WWII for $79.00 including shipping and taxes I will grab it. I have never gotten one that cheap, even at a WW show. I just put in my order. Just hope Amazon does not screw it up as they did last time.

Joe

[Karl]

When I saw the demo at the woodworking show by me, the guy stated that you need to use a blade stiffener with the blade. A 10" blade would need a 5" stiffener. Anyone use the blade without the stiffener?

Will wrote:

[Jim Weisgram]

I've used my WWII with and without. I don't see or hear a difference.

I do think Forrest recommends the stiffener with the thin kerf version of the their blades, no so much the 1/8".

[LRod]

Actually, aren't all their thin kerf blades TK something or other?

The problems to which I refer aren't really related to production vs non-production. I just feel they are more prone to vibration (although it may be just the teeth that are narrower--not the plate), they may need stabilizer/stiffeners which can affect depth of cut, and they certainly throw off every calculation that depends on a .125" kerf.