I am thinking about getting the new Woodworker II blade that just came out.
I heard they have a demo setup at the St. Louis show and was planning on
getting it there. I thought you could get a discount at the show, but I
heard the price at the show is about 5 dollars higher there than it is with
S&H on the web. They want $120 plus sales tax at the show. I was of the
impression that if you buy something at a show one could get a discount on
the purchase, but I guess that isn't true. My question is this blade a
top-of-the-line blade or is there some better out there?
Thanks for your help.
There are a lot of WW2 blades that Forest makes. I think I viewed at
least ten 10" blades I could use. Lots of people like their Forest
blades. My Delta blade amazed me with the quality of cuts yesterday.
That blade must be 15-20 years old. Granted I have not used it much
but it left burn free edges when properly fed.
Some folks maintain that the "best" blade in the world wil perform
poorly on a miss- ligned saw. A mediocre blade on a well aligned saw
could outperform the "best."
I'm a little puzzled by "new Woodworker II blade that just came out".
There's no announcement of a new blade on the Forrest site and that
blade has been on the market since at least 1992.
If you're just talking about the regular 10 inch 40 tooth 1/8 inch
kerf Woodworker II, Coastal Tool <http://www.coastaltool.com has it
for 95 bucks and shipping.
It's certainy a top of the line blade, many consider it to be _the_
top of the line blade.
I went ahead and bought the blade this afternoon. The label on the carton
Woodworker II 10" 40 teeth 5/8 Hole
Alternate Top Bevel/Raker .125 Kerf #6 O.D.
Catalog No. WW10406125 Serial 503828
Special #6 OD Top Grind
I am very much interested in your advice and opinions of their blades. I
have only been in Woodworking less than a year and still learning a lot.
Had to get a part time job to support the hobby. Thanks for your help.
They also had the old style for $79.99 at the WW show. What I got is their
latest model out. The one I got is the advanced model.
Also, They told me the thin kerf model is only for low horse power saw
models. I have a Grizzly G0444Z and they said not to use a thin kerf blade
on ts's over 2 hp.
Again, my model saw is WW10406125. Check it out on the WWII site.
Wow! Thanks for that lead. Anytime I can get a WWII for $79.00
including shipping and taxes I will grab it. I have never gotten one
that cheap, even at a WW show. I just put in my order. Just hope
Amazon does not screw it up as they did last time.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 15:19:40 GMT, email@example.com wrote:
I see you already bought one so this is sort of moot, but I'll add my
thoughts anyway. When I was first made aware of the WW blades they
were over $100 when that was real money. I couldn't justify that and
somehow wound up with a Freud LU-something or other--they have the
goofiest, non-sequitir numbers for their blades. At the time it was a
little over half the price. I believe the price spread is a little
Now, I have bought maybe a half dozen Freud blades over the years, and
they have yet to disappoint. It's hard for me to believe that the
Forrest is worth twice as much (or 30% more nowadays). It has yet to
be demonstrated to me that it is. So, I'll continue to go for the
That said, I've never heard anyone complain about a Forrest blade,
which is worth something.
Incidentally, I have never used a thin kerf blade, even on an
underpowered, light duty saw (old Craftsman). I think they cause more
problems than they solve.
And I've used the thin kerf Freud blades (as you say, LU something or other)
for years and never had a problem.
But I don't do production runs where the blade is in constant use for hours -
if I did I'd use a regular kerf blade.
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:30:34 -0800, Larry Blanchard
Actually, aren't all their thin kerf blades TK something or other?
The problems to which I refer aren't really related to production vs
non-production. I just feel they are more prone to vibration (although
it may be just the teeth that are narrower--not the plate), they may
need stabilizer/stiffeners which can affect depth of cut, and they
certainly throw off every calculation that depends on a .125" kerf.
When I saw the demo at the woodworking show by me, the guy stated that you need
to use a blade stiffener with the blade. A 10" blade would need a 5"
stiffener. Anyone use the blade without the stiffener?
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.