I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the
bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time? I'm
not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be sure
I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
I had 13 bar clamps in use a few weeks ago. I was gun shy and was
wanting a second set of hands. Well I used Titebond II Extend which is
a white glue and just my hands. Some of the glue started to dry out
because I was glueing oak to oak veneer plywood. Actually I gues it
was not so much drying out as being absorbed and sealing the plywood.
I just applied a bit more. No problems but I do not know how long it
took me to apply glue and then clamp everything. If you have dry
fitted the whole assembly and you see no issues then you are probably
ok. Since you are working with real wood you should have less issues
than I did. I bet I spent more than 10 minutes applying glues to 20+
> I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was
> going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on
> bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly
When you get tired of screwing around, epoxy with a slow hardener or
You will be lucky to get the full 10 minutes from TitebondIII in my
experience ... more like 7 minutes.
TiteBond II Extend will give you about 15 minutes and is good down to 40
degrees F. If you rehearse with a timer, you can get a lot done in 15
If you need longer than that, Weldwood plastic resin is probably as good as
Break your glue-up into sub-assemblies and it should not be that
I've used PU glue also when I've needed longer assembly times - the
bottle claims 1/2 hr working time. I haven't pushed it to 30 minutes,
but that should be more than enough for most things. I've heard
varying opinions on its strength and longevity, but it's worked fine
for me so far.
> How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure
> allot longer than 10 minutes!
IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
especially when good epoxy is available.
Ranks right up there with Hadacol, but at least Hadacol was a pretty
good proof product as I remember my dad telling me.
"How about Gorilla glue? "
"IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market,
especially when good epoxy is available"
Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of glue
have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no give
once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when dry and
is gap filling. It is the only thing I have found that will hold our son's
wooden dining room chairs together thru the winter heating season. Gorilla
Glue also seems to be working holding my 1" sanding belts together when the
splice comes apart, no flex to Epoxy Glue and other glues I have tried did
> Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of
> have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no
> once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when
> is gap filling.
If you need to fill gaps, add some micro-balloons to the epoxy.
Gorilla glue or equal has absolutely no gap filling strength.
Trust me, if I used epoxy on your son's chairs, the wood would return to
compost before the epoxy joint failed.
I use Gorilla glue once in a while. It is convenient and does what I need it
to do. Sure epoxy would be better, but for the little I would use I will
just buy the small bottles of Gorilla. Generally I use Titebond or some
Stoutman was looking for longer setup time and Gorilla fits the need, and is
readily available and simple to use.
Odd. I pay about the equivalent of 7 US$ per cartridge for GorillaGrip.
(this is not the same, but similar to Gorilla Glue - MUCH stronger i.m.e.)
I pay around twice that for a liter bottle of 'weatherproof' pva.
Dont get me started on prices for epoxy: the sky's the limit.
heh, regional differences maybe ?!?
As for under-peckered: I've been using UF glues for ~23 years, starting with
aerolite 308. I have yet to see a failure. Works for me. But I am suspicious of
the red Gorilla Glue that comes in little handyman tubes - I think that's
nowhere near as strong (only ever used it once though).
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
GorillaGrip: 20-25 minutes in moderate temps and very high humidity (lower
humidity may extend open time for moisture curing UF glues a.f.a.i.k.)
Unfortunately it works much better on straight glue-ups than in mortise/tenon
and/or bisquit joint situations.
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.