I did a complicated glue up on a China base cabinet carcass this morning using titebond III, and had a lot of trouble with short open time. Does T-III have a shorter open time than II or is it just the heat? Seems like I wasn't getting but a minute or so to grab.
Frank
Sounds strange, Frank. TB3 has a longer OT than 1 or 2. It should be upwards of 8-10min IIRC. What wood type are you using? What type of joints? Don't be insulted because I don't know your level of expertise but, are you sure you are applying an adequate amount? For example; end grain of a porous stock could suck up a thinner coat and *seem* as though it were closing. Just a thought.
J
Cherry primary, with some oak dust panel frames.
This morning, mostly corner joints, face frame to side panel with continuous glue block, no end grain on the first glue up. Some on the second glue up, oak end grain to cherry face grain, held with pocket screws.
I'm not insulted. Thanks for the thoughts. Been using TBI & II, for years and III since it has been out. Did not have trouble with III earlier in the year when it was a lot cooler.
Loading it up pretty good. I've always wanted to err on the side of too much.
Going to call the Franklin people tommorrow, They've always been helpful in the past when I've experienced a problem. I think it may just be the heat. My shop isn't cooling down much overnight, and after 2PM I don't even plan any glue work.
Frank
I think hard before the glue-up operation. When there are lots of joints to go together I will (if I can) dry fit one side and glue/clamp the other side. The next day, pull apart the dry side, then glue/clamp.
I've found that with really complex glue ups, I clamp up first, take a few digital pictures and either print out 8.5 x 11's for reference, or download to a lap top and have that in the shop. I'll even sequence the clamps so I know which one to put on first, etc. Then I know exactly what clamp goes where and when.
Frank
Maybe it is your method. I very seldom give much thought any more to glue up. Perhaps it has to do with the 30+ years of doing this but my method is to assemble as I finish spreading the glue for each joint, put the 2 pieces together and move to the next 2 pieces to be glued. I try not to glue the piece and let the pieces set open as I move to the next piece. After all the pieces are put together I add the clamps.
Frank Boettcher wrote: >
Don't have a clue what the open time of T-III is; however, if you need longer open times than they provide, then use epoxy with a slow hardener.
Mix small batches, then spread with a brush (I use plumber's acid brush for wood working glue ups) on both surfaces.
Get a lot of open time this way, say at least 20-30 minutes.
BTW, how hot does it get during the day in your shop this time of year?
I often wait until 4:30-5:00 PM before doing glue ups, especially when it is in the 90+F range, like last week.
Lew
Epoxy is like a Sailor . . . 'Wonderful handy to have around the house' . . !!
Regards, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
"Lew Hodgett" wrote SNIP
A little tough to get the squeeze out off, both before and particularly after curing.
I don't know what the temp inside was, but the outside temp has been topping out in the 100-103 range for the last couple of weeks. I don't have air conditioning in the shop.
That's the worst time for this area. Usually past the high outside, but the shop is still rising, trying to equalize. Yesterday it was 99 at 6PM. Best time is first thing in the morning.
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