On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wro= te:
get constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Fi= nishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. = Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #4=
7943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Specula= tion is encouraged. Thx, Will
You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much b= etter with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a r= ip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a mor= e expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal.
For A long time I used thin kerf but have gravitated towards full kerf and = find I get less chatter on rips so less sanding of edges.
Speculation would be "little to none" with the info you gave. If you had said how many teeth and what grind, it would have helped (I looked, couldn't find the special at Rockler).
If the crosscut blade has more teeth than your current one, it will probably make a smoother crosscut.
If the rip blade has 24 or 30 flat top teeth (not ATB or TCG) it will probably rip better.
Of course, you either have to change blades for different cuts or accept less than optimal results. I like to use a rip blade on my table saw and a crosscut blade on the RAS. I do crosscuts on the TS too when I don't want/need the slightly improved cross cut results from the RAS.
Kinda agree, using a cabinet saw I used a decent brand rip blade long enough to dull it and never saw/realized the point of switching blades from a WWII.
constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Finishing
40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. Rockler currently has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will
better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal.
+1
I use a Forrest WWII for all critical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips to dimension after jointing.
They are marked down quite a bit... a whole lot of a bit. :-) I couldn't see the model numbers in that Rockler ad, nor if they were thin kerf/thin plate blade. But the rip blade looks like it might be their glue line rip blade without the fancy paint job. Same with the cross cut blade. Both of those would be very good blade, if the same as their high end.
When I called Freud a while back when researching blades, one of their tech guys told me that they often have these large runs of "plain" blades to sell in bulk for many different reasons. Some are for industrial use, some are for huge retailers so they can have a unique sku number, and other reasons.
He said some are thinner kerf versions, some are smaller tooth versions (less sharpening), but many are the exact same blade as their marquee lines except with different printing and no "slippery red"paint job.
If the ones in this pack are the latter, it is an exceptional deal. If they are thinner kerf, even "Diablo" blades, they are still pretty good for the price. The plate thickness is the real issue on those blade, because the teeth with be great. But if they have a thin plate, they will wobble too much and have a less that perfect cut.
find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better wit= h a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 to= oth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the vene= ered plywood.
To each his own I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one r= ip. Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip = blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change bl= ades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry wi= th a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own= .
10, 2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote: >> I'm just a hob= byist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget constrained.= For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth= Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. Rockler currentl= y has: Freud 2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943 How much of= an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation is encourag= ed. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain directi= on) will be much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should= at least have a rip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I= think maybe a more expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal. +=
1 I use a Forrest WWII for all critical projects crosscuts (combination bla= de, but still cuts sterling crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all c= ritical project rips to dimension after jointing. --
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Last= update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
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those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success. W= ith my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out o= n and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf a= ctually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually ret= urned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money b= ack but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another= one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass= like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line= but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next = to the saw.
You won't need a caliper. :-) Just go look at the expensive full kerf blades and take note of how thick their plates are. There are about 3 thicknesses in general... much thinner than the kerf, by about 1/2; a bit thinner than kerf; and darn near the same thickness as kerf.
The latter two will be much heavier than the thinner plate blades. They will have no flex if you try to bend them. They will be much heavier. They will have a high, long, bell-like tone if you hold them by the hole and strike them with your knuckle.
The thinner plate blade will have a bit of flex when you try to bend it. It will feel much lighter than you think it should. When struck with the knuckle, the sound will be a lower pitched and shorter tone.
Seriously I put a new Forrest "REGULAR KERF 40 tooth WWII on my saw just under 2 years ago, the job paid for it. Since I have mounted that blade I have built over 100 drawers, 40+ MDF kitchen door and drawer blanks, several components to that kitchen re-do, A Murphy bed with matching tower cabinets on both sides, a queen side bed with drawers underneath, a quilters cutting table, an 8'x8' wall pantry, a corner curio cabinet, three double cabinet book cases, an additional full wall of book cases, and a bedroom TV chest with drawers and 7 or 8 picture frames. The blade is still cutting quite well without having been sharpened yet.
I know you feel you need a better saw for this blade but you really do not. Prior to buying a cabinet saw 13 or so years ago I used a good quality Systematic regular kerf blade on my 1hp Craftsman TS. It cut better than any think kerf blade I had used.
A Forrest could be the last blade you ever buy, maybe. ;~) I keep 2 Forrest blades on hand. When one goes to Forrest for resharpening I mount the other for the next 3~4 years of use. You will save money on the long run and never be able to blame the blade for poor results.
that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the ripping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood.
Rarely use a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cut very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own.
The trick to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut blade.
Now if you have 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
2012 4:54:36 PM UTC-7, Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote: >> I'm just a hobbyist, make little organizers, odds and ends. Very much budget constrained. For 10+ years I've been running with: Freud 10" Carbide Finishing 40 Tooth Advanced Anti-Kickback Design and haven't done too badly. Rockler currently has: Freud
2-pack of 10" Rip and Fine Crosscut ... $40 #47943 How much of an improvement (if any) might the new blades make? Speculation is encouraged. Thx, Will > > You will find that ripping (cutting with te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Any serious WWkr with a TS should at least have a rip and cross cut blade. I use Freud blades quite a bit. I think maybe a more expensive version, that sounds like a heck of a deal. +1 I use a Forrest WWII for all critical projects crosscuts (combination blade, but still cuts sterling crosscuts), and a Freud Glue-Line-Rip for all critical project rips to dimension after jointing. --
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Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
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> When those glue line rips first came out I did seem to have some success. With my saw stop I have that fence dialed in with just a few thou lean out on and I still get teeth marks on my rips with that blade or any thin kerf actually. I checked for run out and there is esentially none. I actually returned a glue line saying it was flawed and was just going to get my money back but the sad looking Woodcraft owner got me to agree to swap for another one. I went back the next day and bought a full kerf ripper and have glass like rips ever since. I guess I am just a softee. Still have the glue line but it has worked its way to the back of the stack on the blade nail next to the saw.
The problem with the thin kerf is that they may measure out fine, they are not spinning, but once spinning they may no longer run true. Additionally unless you are working with perfect lumber that is equal in hardness all the way through, is there such a thing, the thin kerf blades will flex to some degree often to a great degree when they go to the hard and soft spots.
10, 2012 11:24:44 PM UTC-7, Upscale wrote: >> On Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:34:10 =
-0700 (PDT), "SonomaProducts.com" >You will find that ripping (cutting with= te grain direction) will be much better with a rip blade. Never went the r= ipping blade route. I've always used a 60 tooth combination blade. Did fine= for ripping and crosscut nicely on the veneered plywood. > > To each his o= wn I guess. I might leave in a cross cut blade if I have one rip. Rarely us= e a rip for cross cuts, unless they are not so important. Rip blades do cut= about twice as fast. Takes me less than a minute to change blades and just= kind of do it without thinking. I doubt you can rip cherry with a cross cu= t very often without some burn. But as I said, to each his own. > The trick= to not changing blades is to use a combination or general purpose blade. I= would not recommend cross cutting with a rip nor ripping with a cross cut = blade. Now if you have 2 table saw, that might change considerations.
IMNSHO combo blades are only approriate for basic cabinet work or other sim= ilar (good enough is OK) jobs and not the typical furniture pieces I am usu= ally building. And even then only because the cabinet guys usually oversize= their face frame rips and clean up the edges in bundles ganged up in the p= laner.=20
I have one I throw on when making plywood boxes, etc. for around the shop o= r sets and stage furniture for my daughters school, etc.
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