Update on the small air compressor: It seems to work just fine. It "stopp
ed" working, properly, and I questioned the HF guy. Seems my mistake was u
sing an inadequate extension cord, but my job site didn't have an outlet, n
earby, to plug directly into. HF recommended a 25' or less 10 gauge extens
ion cord, for extension cord use. I don't recall, but the owners manual m
ay have mentioned appropriate extension cord use.
Camp gun cabinet is being reworked, a bit. The bottom drawer is essential
ly not used, disfunctional, so I'll remove it (and possibly the 2 upper dra
wers) and make/install doors.... and install a bottom and middle shelf insi
de.... more useful space, than that/those shallow drawer(s). Doors should
suit the overall design/looks, as well.
This weekend a tornado touched down near the farm. Will go scout for some
downed walnut trees, for salvaging/milling, if they can be had for free or
Jonas' son, Ian, wants an alligator tooth necklace. I had 3 skulls in the
(game) freezer, pulled them out to thaw. They were freezer dried, so I co
uldn't pry open the jaws. I cut the jaws from the skull and will pull the
teeth, later.... or Ian will pull them. Will boil them in borax-water so
lution, makes for easier tooth extraction and odor reduction.
Boysenberries are ripening. Everyone likes the berries. The jelly is, o
ften, a breakfast staple at the camp, as well. .... that and canned whole
figs and jam.
... you could probably go 25 yards or more on 10 guage ...
.. that's a heavy cord !
My little cheapo air compressor doesn't like extended use -
it will refuse to start/pump when it gets to its limit - 10 or 15
minutes of use .. I only use it for occasional house-holder
activities .. so no big problem ..
It will be fine again after a while idle ..
Yeah, you really have to watch extension cords. Both length and gauge
matter. For every doubling of length, you need to go down about three
AWG sizes. So to go from a 25' 10-gauge cord to 50', you would have
to go to a 7Ga wire (if you could find such a thing). Also, don't
bother with HF extension cords. The ends are junk.
I see some more outrageous tables in the future. ;-)
The news had pictures of a 'gator in a local stream. They were
warning people not to come out to take selfies with it. I guess they
have to make such warnings these days.
Are they the same thing as "mulberries" (tree something like an apple
tree with dark purple berries - that crows crap all over everything)?
My wife reminded me that the 'gator's name is Flat Creek Floyd.
That shouldn't be a problem. There're always more where they came
from. My guess is that the police think it's too much paperwork.
On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 3:08:30 PM UTC-5, krw wrote:
I have in mind some chairs for the trestle table. At least the seats upho
lstered, maybe the backrest, too. Leon had commented about a complementar
y bench, so that's still an option, even with a set of chairs. Two acquai
ntances seem to want that table, as does my brother. I don't think the ma
rket is here, as in Houston, so I doubt I'd sell it for what Leon and Karl
estimated its value as. Leon had asked that I post its final resting place
Boysenberries are a hybrid black berry, grown on a *briar bush/vine, not a
A mulberry is totally different.
The hybridization made for no briars, on the vines, but over time, the bria
rs will come back on the vines. Each year, the plants sprout new shoots a
nd these new shoots have "lost" some of their hybrid characteristics, so t
he briars/pickers eventually re-emerge. Wild blackberries are generally sm
all, about the size of the tip of your little finger. The Boysenberries a
re twice the size of your thumb tip. The hybridization hasn't reduced the
sweetness or tastiness of the wild blackberry, either.
Boysenberries are easy to grow/maintain, just let them do their thing, no m
essing with much care for the bushes. I do keep the bushes confined and t
hat's easy, by staking them or "fencing" them in, as you would tomato plant
s. Longer runners, hanging off the sides, are simply lifted on top of the
main plant body. Sprouts may spread beyond the immediate boundary, but jus
t mow them. My plants are in a back lawn location, like a shrub on the law
n, but near the vegetable garden. They are not lawn decor type shrubbery,
but planted as such. No tilling or cultivating, each year... just let th
I have found the least expensive way around this is to buy an
inexpensive 100' air hose. They can be had for a fraction of what an
appropriate extension cord would cost.
Amazon has many choices, the link below is not the cheapest, just the
first on the list.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)62147050&sr=8-1&keywords0%27+air+hose
Having used in excess of 100' of 1/4" hose when used with a framing and
finish nailer owner many years of use I have witnessed no problems other
than you simply need to slow your nailing rate to about 1 nail per second.
The OP is using a nailer type tool and these type tools are low volume high
pressure users of air. A long hose in this range of length is not a
A long dose will be more problematic when used with high volume air usage
told such as painting, sanding, larger impact wrenches etc.
Bear in mind that there is some loss of pressure over the length
of a hose, so, depending on what you have at the far end, you
might not want a mile of hose. Two 50's might be better, since
you can just use the one when it will reach.
(FWIW, same thing is true of extension cords - I'll use four 25
foot cords to get 100' if I need it, rather than buy a 100' cord,
so that I don't have excess length when I don't need it).
Right. Flow rate is the problem. One solution is to use a small
(5-8gal) air tank close to the business end. That'll give a local
reservoir for the air so there will be less loss to the nailer (or
There is no loss of pressure at the end of the hose, measure it and it
is the same at both ends. There is however a loss of volume provided.
If you use a high consumption tool at the end of a 100' hose the
pressure may drop as a result of it not being able to keep up/supply
with demand. But with no use, the pressure is the same. So with the
use of a tool like a nail gun you will have plenty of pressure if you
are not rapid shooting.
Without starting a lecture on fluid dynamics here, just accept
that if air is flowing, there is a loss of pressure across the
length of the hose(*).
Which is why I said "depending on what you have at the far end".
You're not likely to see a problem with a nail gun, you are
with, say, a sandblaster.
(* and yes, the same applies with electricity - you won't see
a voltage drop at the end of the extension cord until the amps
If it is flowing. With nail guns the needed pressure is in the gun
about a second after firing but when you pull the trigger the pressure
is there and absolutely enough to fire the gun whether the hose is 10'
or 500'. The volume is so little that the pressure drop is
insignificant for about 1/2 second.
Real world the pressure drop when a nail gun is triggered is not worth
The original OP and original discussion was about using a pneumatic
type fastener nothing else. IIRC a stapler.
On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 7:11:28 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
Yes, 20 gauge wire staples (the metal, itself, is about 1/16" wide), for st
apling vinyl, for this past job. A 22 gauge wire staple.... about the size
of an typical office paper staple (the metal, itself, about 1/64" wide)...
. is most often used for cloth fabric. The smaller/narrower 22 gauge stap
le will shoot right through vinyl. The wider 20 gauge doesn't shoot throu
gh yhr vinyl. My typical pressure is 100 psi max. As low as 65-70 psi th
e staples attach sufficiently enough.
Now and then, for repairing wood, broken chair parts, etc., I'll use 15 & 1
8 gauge wire nail.
For on-site upholstering, rarely would I ever be farther than 50' from a wo
rk site, so my hose requirement is easily accommodated. Any farther away a
nd I'll fill my portable 6 gal tank and use that supply.... probably at lea
st 75-100 shots (I've never counted), before refilling.
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