I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use mostly for MDF. It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap either.
I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I bring it in for sharpening?
Thanks,
BR
A couple of things:
1) Do you know, specifically, why it warped? 2) If not, and if it is nearly new, you might have a product defect issue that would result in a replacement blade (for that matter are you sure it was ok when purchased).If it cannot be replaced as deficient, and the warp is significant, you might want to pitch it. I am just thinking in terms of material scoring and unnecessary wear and tear on bearings, trunnion, nerves, etc.
Thanks for the reply,
Oh I know EXACTLY why it's warped... A brief lapse in concentration + some nasty kickback/binding = one warped blade. :-( It's only a $45 CAD blade that still cuts "ok", but it add's a bit of vibration to the saw. And it when I use my cross cut sled...
I would love to just replace it, but if it's cheaper to sharpen and straighten it that's what I would do.
-So do you know if a TS blade can be straightened? TIA,
BR
Not all sharpeners offer this service. I have a great local sharpener that lets the computers and robots do all the work but they do not straighten blades.
Since you know how it was warped, Forrest offers this service. They will sharpen and true the blade for a little additional. How ever it may cost you more to have it repaired than replaced. I spent $41.95 to make a Forrest WWII cut like new again after I bent the blade. This price was for sharpening, retrueing, test cutting, and return shipping of a 3 year old 40 tooth blade.
If the blade costs < $50 - pitch it and buy a new one. It costs about $40 to true and re-sharpen a blade.
Be sure you figure out how and why it became warped first!
$=USD
Dave
I would toss it and buy another. As Leon said, Forrest may do it, but it will cost you at least $45, and likely a bit more for shipping. The number one reason for a warped blade in my shop is forgetting to take out the zero clearance insert before cranking in some tilt.
I hate it when that happens ...
Hey but it pops that tight fitting insert right outa there.. '~)
Forrest 40 T Insert Remover: $96; Straighten warped Forrest 40 T Insert Remover: $45; Total: $199.99 (shipping/repairing dent in wall/band aids included)
Dont atke a chance on your safety, Fingers and hands are priceless. Throw it away
Knot on you head when the saw throws the zero-clearance insert at you: Priceless
(well probably not considering medical costs)
I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk. Regards Dave Mundt
Is it really worth the effort? IIRc you buy several for $10.
Hum...that is kind of a subjective thing. I know that it is possible to find good tools at decent prices these days. However, for me, there are other, overriding factors. There is the the idea of cutting down the volume in the trash flow to the dumps in America. Then, with me, it is usually that I need a weird shaped scraper at 3:00 in the morning, and there are darned few woodworking tool shops open at that hour. There is also the fact that I really hate to throw anything away (which is why my relatives think I live in a junkyard *smile*), but rather prefer to recycle and reuse it if at all possible. I really understand, though, that I am kind of out there...and NORMAL folks would just pitch the blade and buy a new one. Regards Dave Mundt
Seriousely though, how do you cut the blade? And isn't a blade too thick? Or, maybe a thicker scraper is better.
Ya know, if you can get it to warp a bit more you might have yourself a decent dado blade.
Jim
Yeah, but those come in standard shapes. Make your own and you can customize them to the job at hand.
I've never done it with a TS blade, but I buy those cheap Japanese saws with the impulse hardened (read: non-resharpenable) teeth and when the teeth wear, they're scraper material.
--RC
not to mention that circular saw blades are thicker than your standard card scraper, which makes them good candidates for donor material for cutters for lots of scratch stock blades and specialized little cutting tools. I have an old 10" blade I've been cutting chunks off of for a while now....
Gee, how much of a dumbass can one be? Whoops. I was looking in the mirror.
Sounds like you've visited that elevated plane of consciousness? ... but, if you haven't, you will!
Wow - Thanks for all the responses.
I will replace the blade and get a new one -but not throw it away ;~) Seems like such a waste though since the warp is not "that" bad. I'll probably keep it around as a backup, in case I need to cut something nasty I don't want to expose my new blade to..
BTW: are the more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house. I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
Cheers,
BR
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